Good Morning,

I need a turbo, So I am going after the 38R, My EBPV stem leaks, I understand why I would need a pedelstal, but what is the the Output that eliminates the EBPV, how?
Riffraff Diesel: Garrett GTP38R PowerMax Ball Bearing Turbo
Riffraff Diesel: Turbonetics High Flow Outlet

Or do I go this way??

Riffraff Diesel: WOP GQSSB Turbo

I am leaning towards the 38r

 

Is your stocker shot? Not rebuildable?
Keep in mind the 38r is non rebuildable.
With a WWgen2 might be a way to resurrect that old stock turbo... and out perform a 38r?


So the meat magicians said your good to go working on stuff again? Turbo r&r can be kinda strenuous. Its pretty heavy when your bent over the engine.

 

No, I can not wrench (with both hands).. Turbo is making contact with the housing, so a rebuild is a little beyond now.

I know the 38r can not be rebuilt, what I dont know is what is the dependability of this unit? Moving parts normally fail, but how long?

This other unit, I have no clue about.

 

The gqssb would be a better option but you would need a T4 installation kit (appx 1500 bones).. The T4 would allow for a whole new world of options..
As far as the pedestal leaking, I would suggest gutting it and plug the hole..
Another turbo option would be like the S366 (contact Jake @Irate)Buy Online | Irate Diesel Performance LLC I am not mistaken the S366 turbo and T4 mount kit and turbo is appx 2500 bones..Also with the T4 kit, you no longer use the pedestal..

 

Very Sweet Joey, But I have to maintain the 1500.00 range..

 

Seems like i have heard of a few guys have problems with the 38r.
I wanna say Rozzi had one go out... and Roland is preparing to buy a new one due to suspect bearing leakage on his. Being that the 38r is non rebuildable, i wouldnt put one on Motorbug unless i got a h*ll of a good deal on it. Stock with ww2 just makes too much sense.

Maybe try finding a used stocker and freshen it up?

I think the gqssb is a t4 mount turbo... so you would need new uppies and pedestal. Not sure of what else might be required for that swap. Some guys swaer by the t4 setup... touting wide open turbo choises.

 

The kit, for a full install is 1699.00 for the gqssb

 

oh heck, never mind, the complete kit would put me at about 3000,00

Damn, I think a 38r is where i am going..scary crap..I wish I had some comfort level.

 

It needs the T4 kit, Irate is 1500 for the kit, I believe another 1000 for the turbo which is less than the gqssb& kit...Just sayin.. Check with skyskijason, he is running the S366

 

If you dont need an exhaust brake as I didn't, I went ahead and put in the non-EBPV mount and outlet. Good for avoiding leaks in the future at that point.

Maybe consider a van turbo, or as others say another stocker. I like mine with the ATS housing for surge fix, but might need the van turbo turbine housing one day if the stock housing restricts too much, when bigger sticks happen someday. On the other hand, Cody has had good luck with 160/100's and the stock turbo, with good tuning - pretty cool.

Which housing is the turbo wheel touching? If the compressor housing, a new ATS housing, and wheel of your choice, and rebuilding the stocker could be an option? If on the turbine side, not sure what can be done (can you buy just the turbine wheel?)

 

A WW2 will not outperform a 38r. Different framed chargers. No comparison.

Pat, a 38r will do you fine. Pull the pedestal and remove the ebpv and tab and plug the whole. Problem solved for like $6 and 20 minutes of work.

Yes a 38r is not rebuild able but who is really eating turbos??

Will you be upgrading down the road injector-wise??

If not 38r is your ticket. While a T4 kit would be nice it's pricey. And FYI a irate 366 kit just sold yesterday on PSA for $1500. I was watching it hoping he would get pissed at it not selling and go for $1200.

 

My reasons for going with 38R:

• I replaced the whole exhaust system (and I mean everything) long before I considered mods, so I had good money fired into a not T4 system.
• I'm a big fan of stock, but stock-ish works... as long as it is a true improvement over stock. The 38R performs better, but it can't be repaired - a bit of a wash.
• Everything bolts right on and if I ever have to sell Stinky... or if a mechanic needs to pop his head under the hood, nobody would go into convultions over the 38R being in there.
• I heard it was very wolf-ish (whistles but good), I like the exhaust note, and I have the AIS to keep the cab quiet.
• I thought I was going to get more PSI.

I was almost wrong on that last one: I got a little more PSI, but oh boy... that spool-up is not to be blinked at : You'll miss it.

If your goals are in line with mine, it worked for me. I still encourage more input. I've tried two turbos... that's the extent of my experience.

If my EBPV went out, I'd fix it. It's cold in the winter and we have big freaking mountains (exhaust braking).

 

I am thinking along the lines of a van turbo with a Gen II type WW. Gut or replace pedestal, less than 1k for all ??

 

I can answer this one, a rebuild for you stock was 140, when I did mine5+years ago. There is a new Wicked Wheel out there they are seeing a fantastic improvements with, for about 250, I think. The pedalstal delete is 88.00. So yes, under a grand, easy job.

Andrew, I have stage 2's now, getting to a t4 would rock, but I can not justify it..although I would like to try

I do not plan in Big Horse power, but I want something that rolls down the road with out issue. I think I am on the right track for a another 12 years with this truck, ( if I can keep the body on it)

Now I am all geeked about RRE, I want see how she does the track...

 

something like this may be a good option..

H2E 66 turbo with kit and Beans plenums - PowerStrokeArmy

I would rock an H2e charger. It's a 64/71 IIRC. would be a boss w/ those stage 2's