4.9 cold start rattle/knock fix - any bets?
#1
4.9 cold start rattle/knock fix - any bets?
My 4.9 has the common rattle/knock on start up.
It had this issue when I got it, so I don't know when it started doing it, or if its always done it. I've heard some people say theirs has done this since new, and others who developed it later.
The po of my truck did not take very good care of it and his maintainence was awful. The truck was @4 quarts low when I got it and had a fram filter on it. The M5od trans was basically empty, as was the rear end.
I switched to a motorcraft filter and it seemed to help a bit and I have experimented with some different oil weights and it seems to like 15w40 the best.
A lot of people say this doesn't hurt anything, and it may not I suppose, but it bothers me. I'm also getting ready to pull the engine and put new bearings, seals, cam, lifters, freeze plugs, oil pump and metal timing gears in it and it will really bother me if it were to still do it afterwards.
The factory oil drain back adapter for the oil filter from the tsb Ford put out is pretty much impossible to find so I ordered the 90 degree oil filter adapter from Summit.
It arrived at the shop friday but I didn't have time to put it on, but I am going to go in early today and put it on.
Does anyone want to guess if it will work?
It had this issue when I got it, so I don't know when it started doing it, or if its always done it. I've heard some people say theirs has done this since new, and others who developed it later.
The po of my truck did not take very good care of it and his maintainence was awful. The truck was @4 quarts low when I got it and had a fram filter on it. The M5od trans was basically empty, as was the rear end.
I switched to a motorcraft filter and it seemed to help a bit and I have experimented with some different oil weights and it seems to like 15w40 the best.
A lot of people say this doesn't hurt anything, and it may not I suppose, but it bothers me. I'm also getting ready to pull the engine and put new bearings, seals, cam, lifters, freeze plugs, oil pump and metal timing gears in it and it will really bother me if it were to still do it afterwards.
The factory oil drain back adapter for the oil filter from the tsb Ford put out is pretty much impossible to find so I ordered the 90 degree oil filter adapter from Summit.
It arrived at the shop friday but I didn't have time to put it on, but I am going to go in early today and put it on.
Does anyone want to guess if it will work?
#2
For anyone who may have interest the oil filter adapter didn't completely eliminate the start up noise but it reduced it by 80 or 90%.
You have to listen for it to hear it now and you couldn't miss it before I put the adapter on.
If it wasn't for my bearings/oil pump being worn out already I believe it would have silenced it completely.
You have to listen for it to hear it now and you couldn't miss it before I put the adapter on.
If it wasn't for my bearings/oil pump being worn out already I believe it would have silenced it completely.
#3
This oil adapter thing your talking about. Not the first time I hear about it, never looked into it though. Where does it go? Easy to install?? Pics???
And the noise you hear is probably the lifters. 300's seem to be pretty known for lifter noise do to their old fashion flat tappet lifters. Roller cams were never introduced to the 300.
I have 2 pretty low miles 300's, and only my '94 makes a lil lifter tap when it's really really cold (like under 0*F), otherwise it's quiet. My '89 300 is as quiet as a mouse all the time.
And the noise you hear is probably the lifters. 300's seem to be pretty known for lifter noise do to their old fashion flat tappet lifters. Roller cams were never introduced to the 300.
I have 2 pretty low miles 300's, and only my '94 makes a lil lifter tap when it's really really cold (like under 0*F), otherwise it's quiet. My '89 300 is as quiet as a mouse all the time.
#4
I actually have both a bottom end knocking and lifter rattle. When I first got the truck it was horrible, sounded like it was coming apart every time it started. Several bottom knocks followed by a lot of lifter rattle - all loud.
The truck also rev'ved up to 2500 rpm or so on start because of a bad clutch safety switch which really made it sound bad.
I replaced the filter with a motorcraft and put some fresh 10/40 in it and that helped a bit, but still rough. Tried some different weights of oil and 15/40 seemed to make it the happiest, but still noisy on start if it sat for more than a couple hours.
I drove it like this off and on for about 5 years. I originally bought the truck for $225 just to haul scrap steel. It grew on me and I decided to keep it.
Fixed the wiring so it started with a key and only rev's up to 1500 like it should now and that helped some too, but still very noticable.
I didn't take any photos, but here is the adapter:
FORD F 150 Ford Racing Oil Filter Adapters M-6880-A50 - SummitRacing.com
It is very easy to install, just remove the old filter and the adapter tightens down where the filter went using that large nut, seals with included o-rings, one on filter mating surface and one under the nut/fitting. Then the oil filter screws on from the bottom in a normal fashion. (You could actually turn the adapter any direction.) Takes less than 5 minutes.
They sell another adapter, I won't post the link to avoid confusion, that is very similar but has a male instead of a female nut/fitting. For that you would need an insert to replace the one in the block. I found this type in the upullit on a couple different engines from the factory, but I would have needed the insert and would have had to hunt down correct o-rings.
Here is a copy of the tsb on the issue:
1983 Ford Bronco TSBs & FSAs (Recalls) for '83-96 Broncos & F150s picture | SuperMotors.net
I was unable to locate the Ford part referenced in it, but I was eventually able to find photos of someone who had found one and installed it. The part replaces the insert that screws into the block that the oil filter spins onto. Its not something you would notice unless you were specifically looking for it. The photo's I found didn't include one directly from the end, but I imagine there is a light spring and check ball in it. I tried to find an engine in the upullit with one of these, but didn't find one before I ran out of time.
From what I have gathered in researching the topic some of the 4.9's never knock on start up, some do it from day one, and others start doing it later at some point. Since I am relying on second hand knowledge and don't know which of the engines referred to had or didn't have the tsb repair done to them, or the general condition of the engines and their maintainence I have no idea how accurate this information is.
Right now my engine makes 3 very light thumps followed by a quiet rattling which is a huge improvement from where I started. As I said, now you have to listen for it, before when I started it people would take a involuntary step back, their eyes would open wide and they would put their hands up to block possible flying parts. The adapter made the biggest single improvement. The oil pressure also comes up more quickly. I have an actual guage installed.
The truck still needs bearings and an oil pump but I'm pretty confident I have done all I can to keep them alive once installed.
The truck also rev'ved up to 2500 rpm or so on start because of a bad clutch safety switch which really made it sound bad.
I replaced the filter with a motorcraft and put some fresh 10/40 in it and that helped a bit, but still rough. Tried some different weights of oil and 15/40 seemed to make it the happiest, but still noisy on start if it sat for more than a couple hours.
I drove it like this off and on for about 5 years. I originally bought the truck for $225 just to haul scrap steel. It grew on me and I decided to keep it.
Fixed the wiring so it started with a key and only rev's up to 1500 like it should now and that helped some too, but still very noticable.
I didn't take any photos, but here is the adapter:
FORD F 150 Ford Racing Oil Filter Adapters M-6880-A50 - SummitRacing.com
It is very easy to install, just remove the old filter and the adapter tightens down where the filter went using that large nut, seals with included o-rings, one on filter mating surface and one under the nut/fitting. Then the oil filter screws on from the bottom in a normal fashion. (You could actually turn the adapter any direction.) Takes less than 5 minutes.
They sell another adapter, I won't post the link to avoid confusion, that is very similar but has a male instead of a female nut/fitting. For that you would need an insert to replace the one in the block. I found this type in the upullit on a couple different engines from the factory, but I would have needed the insert and would have had to hunt down correct o-rings.
Here is a copy of the tsb on the issue:
1983 Ford Bronco TSBs & FSAs (Recalls) for '83-96 Broncos & F150s picture | SuperMotors.net
I was unable to locate the Ford part referenced in it, but I was eventually able to find photos of someone who had found one and installed it. The part replaces the insert that screws into the block that the oil filter spins onto. Its not something you would notice unless you were specifically looking for it. The photo's I found didn't include one directly from the end, but I imagine there is a light spring and check ball in it. I tried to find an engine in the upullit with one of these, but didn't find one before I ran out of time.
From what I have gathered in researching the topic some of the 4.9's never knock on start up, some do it from day one, and others start doing it later at some point. Since I am relying on second hand knowledge and don't know which of the engines referred to had or didn't have the tsb repair done to them, or the general condition of the engines and their maintainence I have no idea how accurate this information is.
Right now my engine makes 3 very light thumps followed by a quiet rattling which is a huge improvement from where I started. As I said, now you have to listen for it, before when I started it people would take a involuntary step back, their eyes would open wide and they would put their hands up to block possible flying parts. The adapter made the biggest single improvement. The oil pressure also comes up more quickly. I have an actual guage installed.
The truck still needs bearings and an oil pump but I'm pretty confident I have done all I can to keep them alive once installed.
#5
This adapter you purchased has a anti drain back valve in it?
A spring and check ball in the adapter is usually for pressure bypass.
Most oil filters have a anti drain back valve built into them.
The Motorcraft FL1A has one.
Here's a site that shows the specs. for different oil filters.
Oil Filters Revealed - MiniMopar Resources
A spring and check ball in the adapter is usually for pressure bypass.
Most oil filters have a anti drain back valve built into them.
The Motorcraft FL1A has one.
Here's a site that shows the specs. for different oil filters.
Oil Filters Revealed - MiniMopar Resources
#6
#7
No, the adapter I purchased does not have an anti-drain back valve in it.
The adapter I used turns the filter itself so it is straight up and down, since it is no longer turned sideways it does not, can not, drain out.
As I said, I was unable to find the adapter that screws into the block with the anti-drain back valve built into it that Ford used as their fix for the issue. It has been discontinued and nobody has one. Not to mention they wanted $250 for it when it was available.
I am aware of the anti-drain back valve in the correct oil filter, it was the first thing I changed after getting the truck home. Its a fairly common issue with several manufacturers. I mentioned putting the correct filter on the truck in both of my previous posts.
It is not terribly uncommon for the correct anti-drain back filter to still drain back, thats is why they released the tsb I linked.
Ford's solution is the adapter, part #E4TZ-6890-A. Which they call a service replacement anti-drainback engine oil filter adapter insert. This is the adapter I was unable to locate.
In order to install it you remove your filter and unscrew the fitting from the block and replace it with E4TZ-6890-A.
The adapter I got is a Ford Racing part. What it does is turn the filter 90 degrees. To install it you just remove your filter and it screws on to the existing fitting already in your block, then just reinstall the filter.
I guess a photo is worth a thousand words, this isn't my engine, but its the same adapter I used:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...s/IMGP0369.jpg
The adapter I used turns the filter itself so it is straight up and down, since it is no longer turned sideways it does not, can not, drain out.
As I said, I was unable to find the adapter that screws into the block with the anti-drain back valve built into it that Ford used as their fix for the issue. It has been discontinued and nobody has one. Not to mention they wanted $250 for it when it was available.
I am aware of the anti-drain back valve in the correct oil filter, it was the first thing I changed after getting the truck home. Its a fairly common issue with several manufacturers. I mentioned putting the correct filter on the truck in both of my previous posts.
It is not terribly uncommon for the correct anti-drain back filter to still drain back, thats is why they released the tsb I linked.
Ford's solution is the adapter, part #E4TZ-6890-A. Which they call a service replacement anti-drainback engine oil filter adapter insert. This is the adapter I was unable to locate.
In order to install it you remove your filter and unscrew the fitting from the block and replace it with E4TZ-6890-A.
The adapter I got is a Ford Racing part. What it does is turn the filter 90 degrees. To install it you just remove your filter and it screws on to the existing fitting already in your block, then just reinstall the filter.
I guess a photo is worth a thousand words, this isn't my engine, but its the same adapter I used:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...s/IMGP0369.jpg
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#9
#11
I actually have both a bottom end knocking and lifter rattle. When I first got the truck it was horrible, sounded like it was coming apart every time it started. Several bottom knocks followed by a lot of lifter rattle - all loud.
The truck also rev'ved up to 2500 rpm or so on start because of a bad clutch safety switch which really made it sound bad.
I replaced the filter with a motorcraft and put some fresh 10/40 in it and that helped a bit, but still rough. Tried some different weights of oil and 15/40 seemed to make it the happiest, but still noisy on start if it sat for more than a couple hours.
I drove it like this off and on for about 5 years. I originally bought the truck for $225 just to haul scrap steel. It grew on me and I decided to keep it.
Fixed the wiring so it started with a key and only rev's up to 1500 like it should now and that helped some too, but still very noticable.
I didn't take any photos, but here is the adapter:
FORD F 150 Ford Racing Oil Filter Adapters M-6880-A50 - SummitRacing.com
It is very easy to install, just remove the old filter and the adapter tightens down where the filter went using that large nut, seals with included o-rings, one on filter mating surface and one under the nut/fitting. Then the oil filter screws on from the bottom in a normal fashion. (You could actually turn the adapter any direction.) Takes less than 5 minutes.
They sell another adapter, I won't post the link to avoid confusion, that is very similar but has a male instead of a female nut/fitting. For that you would need an insert to replace the one in the block. I found this type in the upullit on a couple different engines from the factory, but I would have needed the insert and would have had to hunt down correct o-rings.
Here is a copy of the tsb on the issue:
1983 Ford Bronco TSBs & FSAs (Recalls) for '83-96 Broncos & F150s picture | SuperMotors.net
I was unable to locate the Ford part referenced in it, but I was eventually able to find photos of someone who had found one and installed it. The part replaces the insert that screws into the block that the oil filter spins onto. Its not something you would notice unless you were specifically looking for it. The photo's I found didn't include one directly from the end, but I imagine there is a light spring and check ball in it. I tried to find an engine in the upullit with one of these, but didn't find one before I ran out of time.
From what I have gathered in researching the topic some of the 4.9's never knock on start up, some do it from day one, and others start doing it later at some point. Since I am relying on second hand knowledge and don't know which of the engines referred to had or didn't have the tsb repair done to them, or the general condition of the engines and their maintainence I have no idea how accurate this information is.
Right now my engine makes 3 very light thumps followed by a quiet rattling which is a huge improvement from where I started. As I said, now you have to listen for it, before when I started it people would take a involuntary step back, their eyes would open wide and they would put their hands up to block possible flying parts. The adapter made the biggest single improvement. The oil pressure also comes up more quickly. I have an actual guage installed.
The truck still needs bearings and an oil pump but I'm pretty confident I have done all I can to keep them alive once installed.
The truck also rev'ved up to 2500 rpm or so on start because of a bad clutch safety switch which really made it sound bad.
I replaced the filter with a motorcraft and put some fresh 10/40 in it and that helped a bit, but still rough. Tried some different weights of oil and 15/40 seemed to make it the happiest, but still noisy on start if it sat for more than a couple hours.
I drove it like this off and on for about 5 years. I originally bought the truck for $225 just to haul scrap steel. It grew on me and I decided to keep it.
Fixed the wiring so it started with a key and only rev's up to 1500 like it should now and that helped some too, but still very noticable.
I didn't take any photos, but here is the adapter:
FORD F 150 Ford Racing Oil Filter Adapters M-6880-A50 - SummitRacing.com
It is very easy to install, just remove the old filter and the adapter tightens down where the filter went using that large nut, seals with included o-rings, one on filter mating surface and one under the nut/fitting. Then the oil filter screws on from the bottom in a normal fashion. (You could actually turn the adapter any direction.) Takes less than 5 minutes.
They sell another adapter, I won't post the link to avoid confusion, that is very similar but has a male instead of a female nut/fitting. For that you would need an insert to replace the one in the block. I found this type in the upullit on a couple different engines from the factory, but I would have needed the insert and would have had to hunt down correct o-rings.
Here is a copy of the tsb on the issue:
1983 Ford Bronco TSBs & FSAs (Recalls) for '83-96 Broncos & F150s picture | SuperMotors.net
I was unable to locate the Ford part referenced in it, but I was eventually able to find photos of someone who had found one and installed it. The part replaces the insert that screws into the block that the oil filter spins onto. Its not something you would notice unless you were specifically looking for it. The photo's I found didn't include one directly from the end, but I imagine there is a light spring and check ball in it. I tried to find an engine in the upullit with one of these, but didn't find one before I ran out of time.
From what I have gathered in researching the topic some of the 4.9's never knock on start up, some do it from day one, and others start doing it later at some point. Since I am relying on second hand knowledge and don't know which of the engines referred to had or didn't have the tsb repair done to them, or the general condition of the engines and their maintainence I have no idea how accurate this information is.
Right now my engine makes 3 very light thumps followed by a quiet rattling which is a huge improvement from where I started. As I said, now you have to listen for it, before when I started it people would take a involuntary step back, their eyes would open wide and they would put their hands up to block possible flying parts. The adapter made the biggest single improvement. The oil pressure also comes up more quickly. I have an actual guage installed.
The truck still needs bearings and an oil pump but I'm pretty confident I have done all I can to keep them alive once installed.
I thank you very much for the info! Definitely going to look into this! Both my straight 6's don't make any noise on start up, but i've always been known to do preventative maintenance!
#12
People are not questioning what you did. Your solution makes sense.
It appears Fords solution is a cover up. They state in the TSB the noise
problem during start up is caused by oil draining out of the oil filter over
an 8 hr period of time or longer.
Why didn't Ford tell the dealers to verify the brand of oil filter causing
the problem and to replace it with an approved filter that had a anti drain back valve?
Most engine wear occurs during start up.
If Ford admitted the problem was with the oil filters they recommended and engine
damage occurred during start up due to defective oil filters lawsuits would follow.
It appears Fords solution is a cover up. They state in the TSB the noise
problem during start up is caused by oil draining out of the oil filter over
an 8 hr period of time or longer.
Why didn't Ford tell the dealers to verify the brand of oil filter causing
the problem and to replace it with an approved filter that had a anti drain back valve?
Most engine wear occurs during start up.
If Ford admitted the problem was with the oil filters they recommended and engine
damage occurred during start up due to defective oil filters lawsuits would follow.
#13
No, the adapter I purchased does not have an anti-drain back valve in it.
The adapter I used turns the filter itself so it is straight up and down, since it is no longer turned sideways it does not, can not, drain out.
As I said, I was unable to find the adapter that screws into the block with the anti-drain back valve built into it that Ford used as their fix for the issue. It has been discontinued and nobody has one. Not to mention they wanted $250 for it when it was available.
I am aware of the anti-drain back valve in the correct oil filter, it was the first thing I changed after getting the truck home. Its a fairly common issue with several manufacturers. I mentioned putting the correct filter on the truck in both of my previous posts.
It is not terribly uncommon for the correct anti-drain back filter to still drain back, thats is why they released the tsb I linked.
Ford's solution is the adapter, part #E4TZ-6890-A. Which they call a service replacement anti-drainback engine oil filter adapter insert. This is the adapter I was unable to locate.
In order to install it you remove your filter and unscrew the fitting from the block and replace it with E4TZ-6890-A.
The adapter I got is a Ford Racing part. What it does is turn the filter 90 degrees. To install it you just remove your filter and it screws on to the existing fitting already in your block, then just reinstall the filter.
I guess a photo is worth a thousand words, this isn't my engine, but its the same adapter I used:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...s/IMGP0369.jpg
The adapter I used turns the filter itself so it is straight up and down, since it is no longer turned sideways it does not, can not, drain out.
As I said, I was unable to find the adapter that screws into the block with the anti-drain back valve built into it that Ford used as their fix for the issue. It has been discontinued and nobody has one. Not to mention they wanted $250 for it when it was available.
I am aware of the anti-drain back valve in the correct oil filter, it was the first thing I changed after getting the truck home. Its a fairly common issue with several manufacturers. I mentioned putting the correct filter on the truck in both of my previous posts.
It is not terribly uncommon for the correct anti-drain back filter to still drain back, thats is why they released the tsb I linked.
Ford's solution is the adapter, part #E4TZ-6890-A. Which they call a service replacement anti-drainback engine oil filter adapter insert. This is the adapter I was unable to locate.
In order to install it you remove your filter and unscrew the fitting from the block and replace it with E4TZ-6890-A.
The adapter I got is a Ford Racing part. What it does is turn the filter 90 degrees. To install it you just remove your filter and it screws on to the existing fitting already in your block, then just reinstall the filter.
I guess a photo is worth a thousand words, this isn't my engine, but its the same adapter I used:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...s/IMGP0369.jpg
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