I have my 1956 ford f100
#256
The top molding slides into the track under the hood, the middle one was originally stapled to the gravel pan and up against radiator, I used screws to install mine. The third molding goes on the radiator valance and closes the the gap between it and the top of the radiator.
#258
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: northwestern Ontario
Posts: 262,946
Received 4,130 Likes
on
2,655 Posts
#261
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: northwestern Ontario
Posts: 262,946
Received 4,130 Likes
on
2,655 Posts
#264
Axracer to writing this:
I have posted this many times before, but for those who may not have seen it:
The 53-56 hood hinges have a hidden pivot point that tends to freeze up, even on new hinges. The pivot is behind the coil spring and you need to remove the hinges then the springs to access and free it. DO NOT try to repair this with the hinges mouinted to the hood or cowl! Once the hinges are off the truck the springs can be easily removed by hand unless someone has wound them up. To be safe grab the spring with a pair of visegrips and lift off the hook. https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gall...=98142&width=0
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gall...=98140&width=0
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gall...=98141&width=0
DMAN IT! I can't get the stupid forum to let the picture appear here so you'll have to click on each link SORRY!
The first pic shows the hinge as it looks off the truck. The second picture shows the hinge with the spring removed. Note the short kinda triangular shaped arm behind the spring. The pivot pin with the slot in it that holds the inner end of the coil spring is the problem child. It must be very free moving for the hood to close properly. Test it by pushing on the upper hood attachment arm to move the arms from the shallow "V" to a parallel configuration. Moving this arm to the position shown in the third photo should feely opperate the entire hinge. Work the hinge until it moves freely. Lube all the pivots with a good grade of white chassis grease. Reinstall the spring on the hinge. No special tools should be required do not add any extra tension beyond what is required to hook the end of the spring by hand. Replace the hinges and remount the hood. Test the fit. If the rear of the hood still pops up when closing, move the striker and latch plate at the front of the hood forwards.
I've ridden all the plate and I'm adjusting the hood, I have some questions:
1st. when it's open bell is not subject up, why?
2nd. here is said that the spring is released and placed by hand, no need special tools to give the correct voltage ?.
3rd. I have the fenders located as a front as possible, but the hood still not aligned, that gap minima can be left in the back?
4th. hood straps are adjustable to fit?
_________
_________
I have posted this many times before, but for those who may not have seen it:
The 53-56 hood hinges have a hidden pivot point that tends to freeze up, even on new hinges. The pivot is behind the coil spring and you need to remove the hinges then the springs to access and free it. DO NOT try to repair this with the hinges mouinted to the hood or cowl! Once the hinges are off the truck the springs can be easily removed by hand unless someone has wound them up. To be safe grab the spring with a pair of visegrips and lift off the hook. https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gall...=98142&width=0
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gall...=98140&width=0
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gall...=98141&width=0
DMAN IT! I can't get the stupid forum to let the picture appear here so you'll have to click on each link SORRY!
The first pic shows the hinge as it looks off the truck. The second picture shows the hinge with the spring removed. Note the short kinda triangular shaped arm behind the spring. The pivot pin with the slot in it that holds the inner end of the coil spring is the problem child. It must be very free moving for the hood to close properly. Test it by pushing on the upper hood attachment arm to move the arms from the shallow "V" to a parallel configuration. Moving this arm to the position shown in the third photo should feely opperate the entire hinge. Work the hinge until it moves freely. Lube all the pivots with a good grade of white chassis grease. Reinstall the spring on the hinge. No special tools should be required do not add any extra tension beyond what is required to hook the end of the spring by hand. Replace the hinges and remount the hood. Test the fit. If the rear of the hood still pops up when closing, move the striker and latch plate at the front of the hood forwards.
I've ridden all the plate and I'm adjusting the hood, I have some questions:
1st. when it's open bell is not subject up, why?
2nd. here is said that the spring is released and placed by hand, no need special tools to give the correct voltage ?.
3rd. I have the fenders located as a front as possible, but the hood still not aligned, that gap minima can be left in the back?
4th. hood straps are adjustable to fit?
_________
_________
#267
Axracer to writing this:
I have posted this many times before, but for those who may not have seen it:
The 53-56 hood hinges have a hidden pivot point that tends to freeze up, even on new hinges. The pivot is behind the coil spring and you need to remove the hinges then the springs to access and free it. DO NOT try to repair this with the hinges mouinted to the hood or cowl! Once the hinges are off the truck the springs can be easily removed by hand unless someone has wound them up. To be safe grab the spring with a pair of visegrips and lift off the hook. https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gall...=98142&width=0
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gall...=98140&width=0
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gall...=98141&width=0
DMAN IT! I can't get the stupid forum to let the picture appear here so you'll have to click on each link SORRY!
The first pic shows the hinge as it looks off the truck. The second picture shows the hinge with the spring removed. Note the short kinda triangular shaped arm behind the spring. The pivot pin with the slot in it that holds the inner end of the coil spring is the problem child. It must be very free moving for the hood to close properly. Test it by pushing on the upper hood attachment arm to move the arms from the shallow "V" to a parallel configuration. Moving this arm to the position shown in the third photo should feely opperate the entire hinge. Work the hinge until it moves freely. Lube all the pivots with a good grade of white chassis grease. Reinstall the spring on the hinge. No special tools should be required do not add any extra tension beyond what is required to hook the end of the spring by hand. Replace the hinges and remount the hood. Test the fit. If the rear of the hood still pops up when closing, move the striker and latch plate at the front of the hood forwards.
I've ridden all the plate and I'm adjusting the hood, I have some questions:
1st. when it's open bell is not subject up, why?
2nd. here is said that the spring is released and placed by hand, no need special tools to give the correct voltage ?.
3rd. I have the fenders located as a front as possible, but the hood still not aligned, that gap minima can be left in the back?
4th. hood straps are adjustable to fit?
_________
_________
I have posted this many times before, but for those who may not have seen it:
The 53-56 hood hinges have a hidden pivot point that tends to freeze up, even on new hinges. The pivot is behind the coil spring and you need to remove the hinges then the springs to access and free it. DO NOT try to repair this with the hinges mouinted to the hood or cowl! Once the hinges are off the truck the springs can be easily removed by hand unless someone has wound them up. To be safe grab the spring with a pair of visegrips and lift off the hook. https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gall...=98142&width=0
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gall...=98140&width=0
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gall...=98141&width=0
DMAN IT! I can't get the stupid forum to let the picture appear here so you'll have to click on each link SORRY!
The first pic shows the hinge as it looks off the truck. The second picture shows the hinge with the spring removed. Note the short kinda triangular shaped arm behind the spring. The pivot pin with the slot in it that holds the inner end of the coil spring is the problem child. It must be very free moving for the hood to close properly. Test it by pushing on the upper hood attachment arm to move the arms from the shallow "V" to a parallel configuration. Moving this arm to the position shown in the third photo should feely opperate the entire hinge. Work the hinge until it moves freely. Lube all the pivots with a good grade of white chassis grease. Reinstall the spring on the hinge. No special tools should be required do not add any extra tension beyond what is required to hook the end of the spring by hand. Replace the hinges and remount the hood. Test the fit. If the rear of the hood still pops up when closing, move the striker and latch plate at the front of the hood forwards.
I've ridden all the plate and I'm adjusting the hood, I have some questions:
1st. when it's open bell is not subject up, why?
2nd. here is said that the spring is released and placed by hand, no need special tools to give the correct voltage ?.
3rd. I have the fenders located as a front as possible, but the hood still not aligned, that gap minima can be left in the back?
4th. hood straps are adjustable to fit?
_________
_________
#269
yes, I've adjusted, I put the fenders, as far forward as possible, but still I'm having trouble adjusting the corners of the hood, the passenger side'm missing about 5 millimeters and the driver's side the probelama is that the corner bell stays high and I can not lower it
#270