Here's a really quick one I typed up (pictures credited to Cartmanea, Rusty Axlerod, and MoyockPowerstroke, their links are listed in earlier posts) Sorry there are a lot of gaps, but if you use the other 5 links I put up they should cover everything.
First off, we have to install the adapter hose and sending unit. I put the sending unit into the hose first.
Here's where we're working, the secondary fuel filter housing (the black plastic cap with a square in it):
Remove intake by removing the radiator to degas bottle hose from the degas bottle, disconnecting the MAF sensor and air filter minder, and loosening the hose clamp between the rear filter housing and the turbo intake tube. Rotate the entire intake (front and rear cover still attached to filter) upwards and forward out of the truck. (search for videos of this on youtube, it honestly takes longer to type out than to do after you've done it once)
Remove the cold side CAC hose. It'll be black plastic on later trucks, and metal with blue or black boots on earlier trucks. Loosen the hose clamp on the intake horn, loosen the clamp on the outlet of the intercooler, pop the tube off the horn and rotate it towards the battery and out of the way. It doesn't have to come all the way out, it just needs to be rotated out of the way.
You have two options now: remove the upper radiator hose, or leave it in place; I leave it in place, but pull it downward by putting a ratchet strap around the hose, dropping the ends down under the truck, and tying off to a tow hook. If you want it entirely out of the way, open the white drain petcock under the radiator (drivers side, 19mm plastic nut) and let it drain into a 5 gallon bucket, then remove the entire upper radiator hose. The thermostat housing doesn't need to be touched.
We're looking for the test port in the secondary filter housing. This picture shows the housing with the radiator hose removed:
(ignore the part about removing the nuts, that's for another install walkthrough. If you happen to need to remove the fuel line, you need an 11/16 and a 3/4 wrench, pressure regulator cover bolts are T27)
Now that you know where the test port is, remove the plastic cap on the secondary fuel filter. I use a socket, using the square hole can sometimes crack the cap. Remove the filter and cap, and set them aside somewhere clean. Use a turkey baster, a length of tube, or some other suction device to suck all the diesel out of the housing:
Once the housing is mostly empty, pack some thing absorbent under the test port, and remove the plug with a hex:
(NOTE: some people skip the steps of removing the filter and draining the housing, I prefer to empty it but some guys say it won't leak if you don't drain it)
Install the adapter hose into the test port:
Route the hose under where the air filter sits, then tie it off somewhere near the master cylinder:
You can reinstall all the engine components now, or you can just put the filter and cap back on and wait until you've cycled to key to check for any leaks between the housing and hose, or hose and sending unit. You'll get a code/CEL if you cycle the key without the MAF plugged in, but it should clear itself when the sensor is reinstalled.
Now for the wiring. You need to find a pass through somewhere in the engine bay. Earlier trucks have a plastic plug almost right below the master cylinder you can drill through, but my truck had a shiny piece of insulation over that hole, so I went inside the truck and dug around behind the pedals until I found a rubber grommet behind the insulation on the firewall. Put some conduit/sleeving on the three sensor wires, plug the connector into the sending unit, and fish the wire from the engine bay back into the cab. Let it chill behind the pedals until you're sure of how you want to route it behind the dash.
Since you're doing an A-Pillar pod, remove the grab handle and A-Pillar by removing the two bolts on the handle, then unsnapping the entire trim piece. You'll fish the wiring up through the gap you just uncovered:
Find a keyed power source. I used a fuse tap in the fuse block under the steering wheel, but there are several other hot-while-keyed-on wires around under the steering wheel (there's a blunt cut wire in the bundle for the OBDII connector, it might be a blue/white or white/blue, you can use a multimeter to check for it). Use a ring terminal and add a ground wire to one of the many grounds around the fuse block. Add sleeving, and run those two wires up with the others.
For dimming on the gauge: This one is a littler harder if you don't want to pull the dash cover to hunt wires. If you can reach up under the dash cover, pop out the section that holds the 4x4 switch, power sliding window switch, or backup sensor switch (whatever combo you have). There should be a dead-end connector beind that panel you can pull the dimming wire out of. Or, you can pop out the headlight switch and tap into the wire in that connector. Worst case is you have to take off the dash cover to get your chosen switch out. You're looking for a blue w/ red trace wire, if you check it with a multimeter it should rise and fall as you spin the dimming wheel in the headlight switch. Run this up with the other 5 wires; if it's close to your power supply wiring bundle it in with those two wires. If all three of the power wires are close enough to the thee sensor wires, bundle all six together.
Install the A-Pillar pod, and leave all six wires with at least a couple inches extra on them sticking out of the gauge hole. Reinstall the pillar cover and handle since you're only doing a single pod installation.
Follow the wiring guide in the gauge instructions to put the 6 wires in the correct order into the orange connector (w/ Isspro gauges). Trim them up and make them look pretty . If you have two separate bundles of wires coming into the pod, use some shrink wrap conduit to tie them all together right before they go into the orange connector.
Put the connector into the gauge, and check for function. With the key on-engine not running, your pressure should read between 45-65psi. If it works, pop in the gauge and be done.
My wiring is always a mess, because I tend to not think ahead about organizing conduits. Try to get the wires from the engine bay and the power wires all at the same place, shrink wrap and tie them together, and run a single sleeved wire up to the gauge at it'll be a lot cleaner. Solder connections then shrink wrap them, don't use cheap crimp splices, use shrink wrap sleeving to keep wire bundles from slipping, and always leave enough wire exposed at the ends to see every color/trace. Basically, read the whole process and go through it while looking at the inside of your cab, decide where you want to run your wires, and plan how to bundle them so you don't end up with a rat's nest.
Sending units are usually 1/8" NPT, the test port is M12x1.5. You'll need either an adapter hose, or brass fittings to go from M12x1.5 to 1/8"NPT. It seems like a lot of people use a 45* to angle the sending unit away from the filter housing and towards the radiator, but the relocation hose is by far my preferred method since it gives you a lot more flexibility on where to mount the sending unit.
Original thread where I first posted this write-up:
Other Fuel Pressure related links/threads:
Sending unit relocation hose and an A-pillar mount:
1 Gauge Pod (15212)
EV2 100psi Fuel Pressure gauge:
ISSPRO R17044 EV2 Series Fuel Pressure Gauge at DieselManor
- lots of general gauge install info
Gauge Installations at DieselManor- 2003-2007 6.0L Powerstroke
pictorial directions of an install
- where to find the factory dimmer wires
- pictures of the secondary filter housing and test port
- lots of pictures