Ok thanks, I just loaded the late lock so I'll try that for a bit and switch if I'm not happy. I'll try to remember to report back in a few days as to whether it holds up to the 275 or not, haha.

 

I think you'll like it.
I sure did, no switching back to the 275 for me .

 

After reading this thread i changed from the 250 tune i was running and loaded up the 310 and i love it so far the boost is lower than the 275 i ran previously. I stopped running the 275 and was running the 250 because on the 275 my truck would lope at an idle and to daily drive the pedal was way to touchy. Not to mention boost out hind end if you got in the throttle at all.

 

What does all the parties in this thread that have mentioned uncomfortable boost levels consider high? Or better yet, what are you seeing with the 275?

 

How do you like the 310?

I thought at first that that giant boost "hump" was just cause the turbochargers couldn't use the EGR system to wastegate, but the tuning doesn't even try to stop building boost, maybe they just couldn't hack the turbocharger tuning, and just left it as is.

I'm now pretty confident that the power doesn't blow 6.4 head gaskets, the tuning does.

 

Well back to give my report and impression. I gave the 310 tune a go for about 300 miles and then tuned back to the 275. Not sure what you guys are seeing but when I got on it my boost #'s were just as high as the 275. I typically see 40-45PSI on the 275 when I lay into it and I saw the exact same #'s with the 310. The only difference is that I have never gotten an Exhaust gas temp warning with the 275 and I got it both times I laid into it with the 310, that scared me a bit. I'm **** about my truck and monitor everything and I also noted that the 310 was running a couple extra PSI of boost going down the highway with the cruise set at my usual speeds. I'm totally aware that small of a change could simply be due to a head wind or other variables, it's just an observation I made. I also noted the pedal was even more sensitive than the 275. So it looks like I'm back to the 275 for now.

 

With the 275LL rolling into the throttle with the converter locked, I have seen as high as 53psi of boost. The 310 is the same. Running down the track, it hit 52.

 

Props to you for bringing the information back to us

I am really surprised you saw higher boost on the highway with the 310 than the 275, I observed the complete opposite.

 

Yeah I've noticed that rolling into the throttle makes insane boost numbers that seem quite excessive.

I haven't been able to get the 310 tune to go over 40 PSI yet, but I'm sure it would rolling into the throttle.

What a stupid glitch.

 

Clearly I have a lot to learn about my Spartan coming in this week. Looks like 310 will be a good setting. But now I have to show my large amount of inexperience what is this "puking" everyone is talking about ?

 

Pushing coolant out of the overflow bottle. Usually, its a good indicator you have a head gasket issue.

 

Puking could be from a number of issues including head gaskets.

The reason I am concerned about the boost being too high, is that if I instantly put the throttle about half way to the floor, it will hit about 25 lbs of boost and run great, but if you slowly roll into the throttle it will build boost ridiculously fast.

There are some tunes and some spots in the throttle that I swear pushing 10 % harder the boost just rockets from left to right and keeps going.

 

Does it down shift when you "instantly put the throttle halfway to the floor"?


I run the 210 tow all the time and one thing I have never seen is higher boost equaling lower egts. Quite the opposite. Boost goes up, temp goes up, boost goes down, temp goes down. To me this just makes sense. More boost equals more fuel/air running through the system and at higher pressures. All of that equals heat.

For the most part when you demand power from the engine you get it first from boost pressure, which climbs along with the temp until rpm starts coming up. As rpm comes up, boost goes down, as does the temp. If you've got a load on like towing a trailer you eventually hit that sweet spot where rpm/boost levels out and remains relatively constant, along with the temp.

The best example of this is hauling a load with the cruise on, on flat level terrain. Boost/rpm/temp is constant till you hit a hill. Once the load increases the boost starts coming on and the egts start to climb as well. It will continue to do so until it hits it's sweet spot where it maintains the set speed under the new load conditions. The only time this will change is if the load increases to the point it needs to downshift to maintain the set speed. If it does the rpm naturally jumps, but the boost pressure will come down along with the temp.

Of course extremes can shoot this all to heck and back, like towing 17K up a 13% grade. Here you're running high rpm and boost out the wahzoo anyway, so temps still go up.

I'm not a huge fan of tune swapping, but I might give the 310 a try just for giggles before camping season gets into swing. Curiosity is getting the better of me.

 

Only bad part is the half hour to switch tunes.

 

For whatever reason mine has never taken that long. Usually about 15, maybe 20 minutes.


Mine is an '08 6.4 and it would run 8-10 psi boost running down the highway unloaded bone stock. The 6.4 apparently is just set up to run more boost. Every one I've driven has been that way. The 6.0 I have at the shop almost never exceeds 25 psi and that's with a 17K load on it. I can peg my factory gauge with that kind of load if I try.....and not too hard.