Hi guys just picked up a 83 4x4 f250 for 775 bucks runs great but guys said that the gp's don't work it has a bypass switch on the dash and if the motor is cold I can't get it to start he said he started it with starting fluid, but I don't want to do that. He said it needed a new gp controller but I'm not so sure because wouldn't that be bypassed? Any help would be appreciated my first 6.9 had a Cummins but new to the idi world. I do hear one click when I press this button on the dash but I thought I would hear several clicks? If that helps I know this question gets asked a lot but I didn't see any threads on the early 6.9 with the separate controller and relay.

 

If you press the button that means the solenoid is working. If the gp's are dead.... which is definitely the case here I would say that you need to replace them with motor craft z-1a glow plugs. Use motor craft only in these trucks when it comes to gp's..... others die and swell in the head and break off and cause all sorts of havoc

 

what are z-1a's? Ive always heard to use ZD9's

 

ZD-9's have round connectors called bullet connectors, your truck should have flat spade type connectors and use the Z-1a's unless someone has changed your glowplug harness. Both are from Motorcraft and available at Rock auto.

 

Just to further clarify the above discussion...

The early glow plug system found on 83-86 trucks (most 6.9's) have the flat spade connectors and use ZD1-A glow plugs

The late style system found on 87-94 trucks (some 6.9's and all 7.3's) have the round bullet connectors (looks like a nail with the point rounded off) and are the ZD-9 glow plugs.

Also, the Motorcraft plugs were made for Ford by Beru, meaning they could be listed as either company and would be the correct ones. I will X3 on using only Motorcraft/Beru plugs.

Lastly, if you still don't know what we are talking about, or have more questions on the glow plug system, look here first:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...old-style.html

AFTER reading that thread, if you still have questions, then reply here.

 

good info thanks

 

OK great info fellas what so if I'm only hearing one click then my glow plugs are bad and I just need to replace those or do I need to test the controller and relay as well?? And I've heard that guys actually recommend using a bypass manual gp switch??

 

This is not true at all. There are different determining factors for the clicks you hear. The best thing to do is get a meter and test your plugs. If several are bad, replace them before moving on to your controller and relay. If they all test good, then you need to check the other components. Many more guys here do not use a manual GP switch than do. If you have the old system, it might be a good way to go. The new system is effective, reliable and convenient.

Mac.

 

Lets get it right ... the correct Glow Plugs are Motorcraft/Beru ZD1-A.

The best thing you can do is read this: Glow plugs, 83 thru 86, old style

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

if you hear a single click when pressing the button, it sounds like the solenoid is working. easiest way to tell is have someone push the button while you hold a test light or meter to the power wire going to a glow plug. if it lights up, it is working and the glow plugs need replacing

 

Festus I read that great info thx, aka thx also sounds like I needs test the gp's and then work back the guy didn't say whether he replaced them all or not and tjc I guess that's a good thing, I just want to get the gp's working I don't like the idea of using ether and I haven't but she looks sad sitting in my barn with the 78 sitting out front all proud and running like lol. OK so let me make sure I got this down I need to test gp's by using a ohms meter, then if no power i need to check relay or just replace cause its cheap, then if they are good what next?? I haven't had a chance to look but I'm guessing my controller is bypassed but I would love to have it back to stock with a nice wts light but for now I'm OK with it bypassed I guess, not that I trust the guy more than you guys but he stated it just needed a new controller but if it doesn't have zd1s I'm gonna replace anyway so kill two birds with one stone, anyone know what the ohms or volts should be on gp's??

 

the old style controller like the 83 had is problematic, and is prone to stick on and burn out the glow plugs. that is why most trucks with the old style controller are on a push button.

10 to 15 seconds of glow plugs is more than adequate to start. in 50+ degrees, 10 seconds. if it is below 30 degrees 15 seconds.
once the engine is warmed up no glow plugs are needed.
on the new style controller, there is a temp probe in the block. block temp over 110 degrees and the glow plugs do not turn on at all.

before you test the glow plugs look for power to the plug with the button pushed.
if you have power, don't even bother testing the glow plugs, because they are bad. just replace them.

 

OK sounds good any order that I need to check them in or just any plug getting power and it not starting means their bad?

 

no specific order. hook the test light ti ground, pull the connector off the glow plug and put the probe to the connector on the wire. have someone push the button. check 3-4 wires, if they all have power, you are golden, just replace the plugs.

 

Awesome thanks man, I'll prob get on that Monday I have be at work all weekend