1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Restoration Advice for 1966 F150

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Old 02-14-2013, 11:54 AM
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Restoration Advice for 1966 F150

My Dad and I are restoring our 1966 long bed. The truck's been in our family for 40+ years. It has some rust, but nothing major - much of it is surface only. Everything is stock except for the engine/trans. We're not planning to do a show-truck build (e.g. maxed out engine bay, under carriage, etc.) - instead, we simply want a solid body job and place it on 2013 chassis/suspension technology. Specifically:

1. No major bodywork (e.g. shaved doors, chopped top, etc.) - just remove the rust, sure up the gaps, level it out, etc. Hopefully, this will save us considerable money. I realize estimating bodywork costs is next to impossile due to rust. The bed of the truck will need considerable work. One fender will probably need to be replaced and the doors will need a little rust removal. Given it's a 1966 and the fact that my dad has restored it twice, it's not in bad shape. I guestimate the time and materials for bodywork to be 10-15K.

2. We want to make it 4-wheel drive but NOT with a crazy lift. Really want to keep close to stock height. We've toyed with swapping chassis with an extended cab 4x4, but I'm not sure that's the best route. I'm leaning towards a completely new aftermarket rolling chassis. I'd really like to take advantage of modern technology. It may be a bit more expensive, but by the time you do all the modifications and costs associated with swapping chassis the difference may be small. Also, how easily can an aftermarket chassis be modified to accomodate 4x4? Realistic? I'm guessing a complete rolling chassis, with high quality suspension, disc brakes, etc. will run 8-10K.

3. This will be a daily driver, so it's important that it rides well. With today's suspension technology I think it's realistic to expect highend SUV ride quality. Realistic? Is air ride technology the way to go?

4. As for the drivetrain, we want brand new across the board - i.e. turnkey engine (naturally asparated Ford big block) mated to a new 6 speed trans with overdrive. I'm guessing this package will run anywhere from 8-12K.

5. Estimating about 2-3K for tires, wheels, etc.

6. As for the interior, nothing special. Just sound deaden the cab, add carpet and simple straightforward leather upholstery to the bench seat and door panels. Have no clue what this will cost...maybe 3-4K.

Adding up my estimates puts the restoration somewhere between 30 and 45K. Site unseen, does that and the estimates above sound like a reasonable starting point? For those who have conducted similar builds/restorations, is there any advice regarding the plan laid out above?

Thanks in advance for your input. It will be greatly appreciated.
 
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Old 02-15-2013, 11:58 AM
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Chassis swap to a 2013 F250 4x4. Find one gently rolled, remove the sheet metal and install yours. After that it's simply a matter of refurbishing the 66 sheet metal. Take a look at using the floor and firewall from the donor. Might be easier than fitting the 66 2x4 onto the later chassis. If the bed is solid you can use that with 66 sides and tailgate. Not easy or for amateurs. Make a detailed plan with goals, time lines and a place to work.
 
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Old 02-15-2013, 01:39 PM
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Check with your local DMV first. Rules vary widely state to state. What you are doing may mean you have to register it and pass emission tests for whatever year the chassis and/or motor come from. Its a big issue in a lot of states now. Also since you may have two different VIN numbers the DMV will likely assign you a new one. None of that withstanding its sounds like a nice project. Good Luck.....
 
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Old 02-15-2013, 08:39 PM
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I'd go to a dealer with a tape measure and start checking things out. I dont think your plopping it together. Where there is a will there is a way, and usually tons of $$ and busted knuckles later.

Not sure why your so impressed with 2013 techno, nothing being built today was engineered to go more than 125-170K. The cost to repair a damn thing at all on them will get you a rust free slick if your thrifty. My 71 F250 gets 13.9mpg, has power disc brakes, power steering, and the wiring harness weighs all of 25lbs. The only bolts I cant get at without the jaws of life or 14 hours of labor is the back fuel pump and dropping the OFA allows that in 5 min. Roller engine internals are available as are FI packages making the drivability as nice as can be expected.
 
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Old 02-15-2013, 11:33 PM
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Your project is a bit large.

The Cardinal rule of restoration is find something that you can get your money out of after you finish. The first rule is to research and know what it is really worth after restoration. The second rule is to do an inventory and know what exactly the cost is going to be.

No modified 66 is going to bring much more than what you will have in the paint and body work (if you can get that much). Anything over $6000 into a modified 66 - non original 4x4 - is going to be a waste of money.

People paying big money are looking for frame off restoration of original automobiles. Let what you start with detemine how much you are willing to put into it. Usually the 4th person that gets ownership of a project finishes it, the first three get burnt out and lose their time and money not that it was not worth the time and money for the fun and experience.

I have had way too much $$$$ in several finished projects I loved dearly for awhile. My biggest lessons have been to not overpower these old trucks. Roll one a week after finishing it and you will cry, no matter how big and tough you are. Crash a second one and your insurance company will black list you.
Good luck.
Dennis
 
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Old 02-17-2013, 09:25 AM
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Thanks for the input. I can appreciate that my original plans may be overkill. This truck is special to my father and me, so I want to do this right. At the same time, the budget I laid out above was gonna be very tough to cover.

I'm quite interested in swapping out the chassis for a "rolled" late model F250 4x4. What's a realistic price to expect for this type of late model "wreck"? A lot of my concerns about drivability would be dealt with using the late model chassis approach. As stated above, beyond that it's merely paint and bodywork on the 66 body.
 
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Old 02-17-2013, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by csm

I'm quite interested in swapping out the chassis for a "rolled" late model F250 4x4. What's a realistic price to expect for this type of late model "wreck"? A lot of my concerns about drivability would be dealt with using the late model chassis approach. As stated above, beyond that it's merely paint and bodywork on the 66 body.
If you go this route, check out the wrecked donor truck really well, almost all have hidden damage you can't see at first glance. Price depends on mileage, options, damage, etc. Google search "rebuilders" or "repairables"

Bottom line though.....frame swaps suck. They are a HUGE amount of work trying to make 2 completely different vehicles fit together. Nothing fits and it becomes a huge compromise just to get it done. I've done a couple and they are simply a lot of work.

You also don't mention what your skill level is. Have you ever done this kind of fab work before? It will involve a lot of welding and custom fabrication. Not trying to discourage you......just giving you some firsthand insight.....
 
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Old 02-17-2013, 05:13 PM
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Keep in mind, if this family truck has alot of sentimental value putting it on a new frame may not give you what you are looking for in the end. It will not longer be the old family truck. It will be a new/used truck with an old familiar body on it at best. The feel, smell, and sound will be all different.

I also have a 66 that was in the family since new. After doing a frame off job I use it exclusivly all summer long. My 02 since and collects cob webs so long as I don't need to pull a trailer.

If I were you I'd overhaul the stock chassis compnents (new bushings and steering linkages) and if the ride is not to your liking get new springs/dampers to suit your needs. If you must, get a modern seat to help with comfort/safety. Can easily upgrade to disk brakes too. i think all of this would be much cheaper and certainly easier than what you would have to spend to get a new frame/engine/transmission.

I think putting an old body on a new frame would cost more time and money that what it is worth. Finding places to hide all the ECUs in your old body will be difficult. Getting everything to line up and function properly will be even more difficult. Such as the steering column, brake pedals/master cylinder, bumpers....
 
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Old 02-17-2013, 10:32 PM
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Old 02-18-2013, 02:30 AM
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Originally Posted by CSM
Restoration advice for a 1966 F150.
No such thing as an F150 until 1975. What is your truck, an F100 or an F250?

F100's have 5 lug wheels on a 5.50" bolt circle / F250's have 8 lug wheels on a 6.50" bolt circle.
 
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Old 02-18-2013, 04:19 PM
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DesertWest - really appreciate the link. Just so happens this guy is less than an hour from Dad's. We may have to reach out to him re: our restoration. Thanks again.
 
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