I just remembered something. When manually shifting the E4OD at WOT did you make sure to DISABLE your overdrive? (ie: clicking the O/D button on the gear selector). That could be why it will manually shift into second fine at WOT but when you hit third the truck may be trying to go into overdrive. I forgot that Ford doesn't have 3rd gear separated from 4th on the selector like Chevy does. When you wind 3rd gear out then enable your O/D. Give that a shot and report back please.

 

No, I did not have overdrive disabled. I will try it this evening and report back results. I am going to test MAP and fuel pressure this weekend as well. Then I may swap the O2 sensor from my 96 to this one for kicks and giggles.

 

Did the same thing with od off. Changed fuel filter and tested fuel pressure. 28psi key on and 34 engine running. Pressure is low with key on but fine running. I dont have a multimeter that tests Hz. Harbor Freight has on that does for $20 bucks and new map sensor is $38. What to do, what to do?

 

Decided to try running it up to the rpm's that is bogs down at in 1st gear with throttle not wide open and I notice a slight surging. I had noticed a very slight surging of rpm's while doing all of my test driving but thought I was imagining it. Any thoughts? It did not bog down during this test by the way.

 

You got me. I would have to drive it and feel for myself to offer more help. If you have any mechanically inclined friends or know a shop that can do a free diagnosis I would try there.

 

I've pretty much given up. Thanks for all the advice guys.

 

Before you give up, just reset the computer see if that changes anything. Disconnect the negative terminal and rest it where it wont touch the negative post. If your impatient pull the headlight switch will get rid of any current in the system quicker LOL. Hope this fixes your problem or helps at least! Report back!

 

How long do I need to leave it disconnected?

 

I always do 30 minutes with headlight switch pulled out, then just push it back in before you hook negative back or you will see a pretty big spark. You could leave it overnight and hook it up in the morning. This won't affect anything so don't be afraid to do it. I always do this when I clean sensors or change spark plugs and wires as well as any other thing. All it does is reset the computer so next time it turns on its reading from factory set parameters and meanwhile the computer is adjusting and learning.

 

Will do thanks.

 

Left it unhooked over night. Took it out for a test drive this morning. It still hits what I am assuming is the rev limiter, but it shifts right after it does. So problem solved. Thanks F-150 1993.

 

Hope it doesn't return and I am glad it helped you out, from now on not necessary but its a good thing to do this to these trucks when you change sensors and such.

 

Unfortunately it was short lived. Took it for a drive later and it was back to its old ways.

 

I replaced the MAP sensor. Disconnected negative terminal with headlights turned on for a good 30 minutes. No change. I swear it is starting to run worse and worse. It is hardly noticable, but I know how well it ran before. I am going to pull the plugs tomorrow and check the condition of the cap and rotor. I can hear a ticking that gets louder and faster as engine revs. It is not coming from heads.

 

A ticking like that usually just comes from the engine being worn out, I for one think I have a slight rod knock. Anywho I would check the timing on the engine, does the motor run strong at all times? do you hear any rattling under wide open throttle? I suspect it has to be damaged wiring or faulty sensor at transmission. Its obvious to me but pain in the *** to diagnose. So you say the motor actually bogs down when it tries to shift? or does it drop out of gear then engage again? Sorry for the late response...