Hi everyone. I was refered here by another member (fordtruck661) I have already been reading for the last 3 hours.... this is truly a great site.

Some background on the truck: 1999 f-250 superduty auto trans, all stock except 4" exhaust. the Truck has about 163,000 miles on it.

I got the truck in august and up until about the last week of December it had ran excellent.
I will re post what I had already posted on the forum I was refered from. Bear with me, its quite long.

(1/22/13):
My '99 f-250 7.3 is giving me some trouble.

It started a couple weeks ago, The truck had sat for 2 days, I went to take it out and upon starting it almost immediately died. The fuel bowl has been leaking (I need to get the o-ring kit and install it) so I figured that i just didn't give enough time to re fill the fuel bowl. So I cycled it a couple times and started it.

It ran fine for about 5 minutes in the driveway so I took off and got about 2 miles and it started to lose power almost like it wasn't getting any fuel the SES light also came on... I couldn't remember if I treated the fuel last time I filled up so I added some diesel 911 to the tank, let it sit, and started it about 30 minutes later. It ran great, no SES light... not one hiccup.

Last week I went to start it, and again forgot to cycle the key a couple times and died in the driveway just like the first time. I cycled the key a couple times and she started fine and I drove about 150 miles with no problem.

This past sunday, I filled it up and made sure the fuel was treated since we are expecting lows of -7 this week... We got snow monday and my driver took it out and plowed a 5 hour shift without any problem. He parked the truck inside yesterday and took it out again this morning for another shift.

I got a call while he was at his last account that the truck was acting up, SES light, low power even with accelerator all the way down, coming back to the shop he said he could only get it up to 30mph. I was there at the shop when he pulled up. There was no smoke... we turned it off then started it back up immediately, the SES light was out and it ran fine.

I don't have a scanner that will read the codes but I might be able to have my cousin scan it.

I am not very knowledgeable about diesels, so I'm not sure where to start troubleshooting.

The only thing that I can think of is the fuel bowl leak which might explain dying at startup after the truck has sat for a couple days, but I'm stumped why it acted up this morning.


(1/22/13):
My cousin scanned it and it didn't show a code but he agreed that the fuel bowl seal is likely the culprit. I've ordered the o rings.

I'm thinking that if it acts up again I'll have the driver turn off the truck and cycle the key a couple times to re prime the system then continue. I know it's not ideal, but we are expecting another 12"+ within a couple hours.

Will I ruin the injectors by having him do that?

(1/23/13):
The truck ran perfectly fine for the whole 6 hour plow route

(1/25/13):
Well the orings came today, I got them all installed, got the bowl bolted in place, got all the brass fuel line fittings snugged up, and forgot that the friggin FPR fitting is aluminum. thought to myself - " self, you should snug each fitting another 1/10th of a turn, just to be sure"... Snug, snug, snug, SNAP!!!! WTF!

(2/5/13):
Well I thought it was fixed, but of course.... It's not. The same thing happened again. I have since ordered a superchips programmer, not really for the tunes, just to read the codes. It should be in tomorrow, so I'll let y'all know what it tells me. I'm really hoping its not an injector

(2/10/13):
I scanned the truck and 2 codes came up: p1247 turbo boost pressure low and p1316 injector circuit

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So that is as far as I have gotten. from what I have read the P1316 is most likely caused by a loose IDM connector under the valve cover. Correct?

I really have no idea an the turbo boost pressure low... I can hear the turbo spool up just fine, and it feels like I'm getting plenty of boost (no gauge yet though). I did check to make sure the wastegate actuator wasn't stuck, and it does move by hand with some pressure.


Any help would be great. As I stated before, I am new to diesels, but I am pretty handy with a wrench.

Thank you.

 

Seems like a likely case of the loose UVCH's, the scanner that you used to pull the P1316 memory code, can it view KOEO self test or perform BUZZ tests. That would help with confirmation. Search for 50 cent mod or loose UVCH(Under Valve Cover Harness).

I wouldn't worry too much about the low boost yet, but you could inspect the MAP sensor hose that runs from the "spyder" to the Sensor atop the blower motor for cracks or leaks.

 

Thank you, No, the scanner can't do the buzz test or anything... It's real basic.

I have been reading up a bit more on the loose UVCH symptoms, and it seems like that is a highly probable cause...

Just for referance, how long should it take to do the 50 cent mod, and pull the valve covers etc...?

I don't want to have the truck torn apart and have a snow storm come along before I can put it back together.

 

What Alan said....
I had the same issue about 4 yrs ago and it turned out to be the UVCH (Under valve cover harness). It had the faulty OEM clips. I messed with it a little including the 50 cent mod but just ended up replacing the harness on both sides to be safe.
With doing the glow plugs and missing a connection, I can get in there now and put it back together in about 2 hrs. My first run though was about 4hrs.

 

Welcome to the forum. Sorry about your troubles.

The P1247 and P1316 could be caused by low fuel pressure. The PCM does not monitor fuel pressure, so there is no code for that...

My knee-jerk reaction is you may have issues with the in-tank fuel filter/strainer mixing chamber thingy. The cure for this is commonly called the 'Hutch Mod' or simply 'in-tank' mods.

Here's a link, but I strongly recommend something like a WIX 33972 fuel 'strainer' before the pump instead of the unnecessary and redundant 'primary' filter he used in the write-up. These pumps do not like to have that kind of restriction in front of them.
Welcome to guzzle's In-tank Hutch Mod Web Page

There's a couple more hours of good reading on that site - enjoy!

For a cheap way to check fuel pressure, you can add some clamps to the 'lil piece of hose behind the fuel bowl and clamp a piece of hose to the drain-line tubing discharge (kinda beside the water pump - pass-side front of block). Put any cheap pressure gauge (100psi) on the end of the hose and open the drain valve to check pressure.

I'm sorry to hear ya wasted $$ on the superchips... I would recommend anyone with a PSD who wants a 'code reader' get a ScanGauge II (retail $160). This little jewel will not only read and clear DTC's - it will display every parameter the engine monitors and shows you (4) parameters at a time! This is an amazing tool and could easily help diagnose or at least narrow down the problem you are having now!! I've also used this in dozens of other vehicles to pull and clear DTC's - it works on any OBDII ('96-up) vehicle.

The next step up would be an Aeroforce Scangauge (retail about $250). This 'tool' fits in a standard gauge hole and does everything the SGII does, but also has (2) aux inputs so you can use it to monitor Fuel Pressure and EGT - things the engine does not currently measure. In addition to that, it can do on-board diagnostics injector Buzz Test and Cylinder Contribution Test that you need something like the dealer's 'computer' to do. Comparable in price to a 'triple set' of (good quality) gauges and gauge pod when you add the addt'l senders to it.

The MacDaddy of course is the AutoEnginuity software for your PC (retail $360). It does all of the above plus several other on-board diagnostic tests. With this tool and your new friends here at FTE (and some wrenching know-how) - chances are you'll never consider going to a stealership again!!

Good luck and keep us posted!!!

 

When ya type a novel - the fast-draw guys beat ya to the punch every time!! (I also got a phone call.... ). Lol.

UVCH is possible, but the engine usually runs really rough and the likelihood it would 'fix itself' turning the ignition off and back on is low. The $0.50 mod is a no brainer though if yer ever under the VC's for anything.

Fwiw, an injector costs less than the superchips programmer and can be swapped in a couple hours. Although it is unlikely that is your problem!!

 

Thats what I thought too with mine but something to do with the way the engine vibrated at idle and under throttle caused it to connect and disconnect. It was close enough to be intermittent.

 

Some more details on the situation:

I deleted the codes after I scanned the first time, and decided to play with the tunes and selected the economy mileage tune. I drove the truck minimally that day (15 miles) I scanned at the end of the day and everything was still clear.

Yesterday and today I drove the truck a little bit more (another 45 miles) and fueled the truck up from half a tank. The truck ran great. I parked the truck, and just for S&G's I scanned again and got code P0603. Is that just a false code because I tuned the truck?

Another thing that comes to mind is that if I remember correctly, whenever the truck has acted up the the tank was above 3/4 full.

Is there a way to tell if the hutch mods have already been done without having to drop the tank? I'm inclined to think that they may have been due to the fact that the truck has fairly new straps.

 

Yes P0603 is nothing to worry about.

One way to tell would be the presence of another fuel filter pre pump(on the frame rail below driver door) but I wouldn't call that a guarantee.

Although IMO a fuel restriction issue would also be accompanied by a code for ICP(such as P1211) If you feel it was a fuel restriction, then a fuel pressure gauge would help with troubleshooting. Even a temp line with a cheap gauge rigged to the fuel drain and ran to where you could see pressure while driving.

 

The 50 cent mod takes about 1.5 hours per side if you have never done it before. If you keep to this plan below and you can stay focused the times will be as stated above or less. I can get into the driver's side valve cover in less than 20 minutes with air tools or a battery powered impact driver. The description is lengthy but I cover everything that you might not think of.
50 Cent mod
In short. The 50 cent mod is done to keep the Under Valve Cover Harness (UVCH) plugged in properly, clipped into place and a quarter(25 cent piece) placed under the plastic clip to keep it clipped. This is classic of the 7.3L problems. Now the details below. It KEEPS ALL INJECTORS and GLOW PLUGS plugged in and FIRING when necessary for Under the Valve Cover HARNESS. You can be running on 3-7 cylinders based on wether the plugs under the valve covers are plugged in all the way or NOT. You can also have very hard starts from the glow plugs not being plugged in and only a few heating up.

Under Valve Cover Harness (UVCH) and the 50 cent mod done? 50 cent mod video here


How to do it below! The video above is not my video but is a great training tool.

For the 50 cent mod you will need two quarters, a short 13mm socket, deep 13mm socket, deep 11 mm socket and a universal or wobble short extension to get the back bolt on the drivers side and a few of the bottom bolts on the passenger side, a 13mm wrench and a long(6-8 inch) extension. Various wrenches and sockets for pulling harness connector and Intercooler boot clamps. The intercooler boot clamps are 11mm sockets.
Only takes 20-25 minutes to pull the Turbo intake hoses and Turbo pipe(metal) on the driver's side. Be careful with the boots. Just be easy with them.
Don't pay too much attention to all the oil inside of the inlet tube and metal pipe as you can clean them any time IN THE FUTURE. If you start cleaning them now then you will get side tracked and this mod will take you an entire day. 70% of your time will be spent cleaning stuff. All of your intercooler boots and your valve covers will be very dirty unless you have taken the time to clean them in the past.
Right now focus on taking the valve cover off. I take out the stock filter and all the inlet tubing going to the turbo then I gently shove a not so good towel into the stock filter boto take up space so I can lay on it and not sink down) AND lay a moving blanket( very thick folded over several times) over the battery and stock filter box so I can lay on it while I take the Valve cover bolts out. Be careful of the towel in the stock box for the sensor in that box. The wires are fragile. I am short, fat and bald so please laugh and work with me at the same time. If I can do it then you can do it too!
Unbolt the 42 pin electrical connector on top of the valve cover. It is either 8mm or 10mm If you have an air compressor, now is the time to blow any debris around the valve cover down out of the way. That thick oily stuff will not budge. You have to use a screwdriver or wire brush.
Take a PICTURE or take note which fasteners ARE BOLTS and which ones ARE STUDS with a nut to mount something else to. You will want to put it back exactly as it was. Get the 13mm socket and a 13mm wrench. Deepwell for the studs.
DO NOT TAKE THE Positive Crankcase Vent or CrankCase Vent(CCV) DOGHOUSE OFF UNLESS YOU HAVE THE FOUR ORINGS TO RESEAL IT
4 Viton O-rings to reseal the Crank Case Vent cover
OR THE ORINGS WILL SWELL UP AND BE NO GOOD AND YOU WILL LEAK OIL ALL OVER THE PLACE UNTIL YOU GET THE NEW ORINGS.
Using the 11mm socket loosen the boots on the intercooler pipe at the drivers side intercooler and the boot at the spider connection near the turbo. Carefully remove the pipe.
Using the 13mm WRENCH carefully remove the bolt just above the CCV dog house and leave the CCV in place. You will not be able to use the socket with the CCV in the way. Now you can use that 13mm socket and take all the rest of the bolts out. The hardest one is on the rear of the cover and you can not see the bolt without a mirror. Don't worry about the mirror, just loosen it and place the bolts to the side. I use a 5 quart pail(sold at the paint department at lowes and home depot) to put my fastners in. Slow down when you get the bolts loose and keep a tight grip on them unless you like fishing for metal in the pit of hell. I put a tarp under the truck for items I drop to easily find them. If you are working in the dirt then I highly recommend this to you.
When you pull the cover loose, be slow and easy so you don't put any debris in the VC area. If your harness connection is loose, very gently push the connector towards the top of the VC gasket and let the clips clip UPWARD into place. You could also unclip it and inspect for burnt connectors. Place the connector back firmly in place. Now take the quarter that you have shaved off right at the top of the hair line on the head and slide it in round side down and flat, cut side toward the TOP of the valve cover. DO NOT FORCE ANYTHING unless you have a fresh Benjamin Franklin laying around to spend on a new gasket/harness. when you see the clip you will understand where and how the quarter should be placed.
The clips should be clipped fully in and pushing up whilist the quarter holds the clips up. The flat spot gives the valve cover enough room to be installed and keeps the quarter from going anywhere. If you do not cut a flat spot then the valve cover will not fit when you put it back on. You can cut the quarter with a hack saw and vice or vice grips and a cut off tool or sawzall with bimetal blade. You get the point. Many ways to cut your quarters.
If you want to you can now check the torque on the:
Lower injector hold down bolts at 120 INCH lbs.
Rocker arm bolts at 20 Foot lbs
Valve cover bolts when reinstalled will be 96 INCH lbs.
Verify all of the injector connectors are secured and clipped
Verify all of the glow plug wires are tight.
Check that no wires are scrubbing anything that can ground them.
Do everything in the reverse order to put it all back together. Wipe the oil coated pipes down to remove any excess oil and start on the passenger side
Remove the intercooler pipe with the 11mm sockets. You will figure out that you have to move it above the turbo to get it out. Lots of room above that turbo. I loosened my boost pressure gauge and tied it back with string or a small bungee.
Bungee cord the two heater hoses toward the passenger side fender. I put the Moving blanket on this side but did not lean on the A/C pipes. Same thing on this side except you have a bolt holding down the Engine Oil Dipstick so be careful with the dipstick. Only pull the dipstick high enough to remove it from the stud. The bolt near the AC compressor is tight but you can get to it with a few extensions and a deep socket. Same bolt as the oil dipstick. This bolt for the dipstick is a stud with a nut in the middle of it and then another nut to hold down the bracket for the dipstick. Note the stud positions again. Don't loose the heater hose clips because they are 28$ at the dealer if you can find them. The Previous Owner lost one so I purchased another one. Loosen and remove the rest of the bolt/studs. Same thing as the driver's side from here. Again, be careful with any debris while pulling the cover off.
Man, that is a lot of typing. Talking thru it is much less time consuming. LOL. Put a wrench in your hands and get to work. The sooner you get it done, the sooner you can drink that favorite cold beverage and relax that another inexpensive mod is done and you will feel better for not spending any money at the mechanic shop or Stealership It might even run much better or have gained some power back. Same torque values as mentioned above. Be careful whilist VC's are open. If it rains you need to shut the hood all the way immediately after you remove the blanket and slowly slip the VC in place. This is only if you are working outside like I was. I hope this helps and is not too mundane. I prefer air tools/pneumatic rachets but you need to put it back together with regular rachet/wrench and get torque values correct.
Dwayne

 

I have never seen P1211 from low fuel pressure and I've had low fuel pressure many times...

 

Guys...could this simply be an old black CPS problem?

Also, as mentioned, you may have a clogged fuel line that is lowering your fuel pressure. One way to attempt to fix that is to disconnect the fuel line from your fuel pump that is coming from the fuel tank. Remove your fuel cap first. Then using an air compressor, give a few short blasts down the fuel line toward the tank. That will blow any possible gunk back into the fuel tank and away from the screens.

 

[quote=Tailgate77478;12831974]Guys...could this simply be an old black CPS problem? quote]

I thought the same thing and have already replaced it... the problem has still persisted.

I really appreciate all the help everyone has been. I should have time this weekend and will do the 50 cent mod first. I will also try to check for any indicators of if the hutch mods have been done already.

Keep the sugestions coming. Everything you guys mention helps a lot

 

I have the day to myself, so I'll be doing it today, anything else I should do while I have the valve covers off?

Re torque the rocker arms and injector hold down bolts, or just leave well enough alone?

Also, could anyone help me out with the international part numbers for the UVCH and valve cover gaskets just in case? I have an international dealer 10 minutes from me and the nearest ford dealer is 25 min.

 

If you havent re-tourqed in a few years then yes go ahead and do it again. Otherwise....I wouldn't worry about it. If you haven't done the glow plugs yet this would be a good time while you are in there, (Don't feel like reading back up).
Check the harness on the driver's side where it goes OVER the valve cover and check for rubbing, chaffed wires. Another good time to make this repair.

Be careful when you remove the bolt securing the dip stick tube. Make sure you aren't twisting the tube. Try not to move it too much opr you could end up with a leak at the base of it.
Check the turbo wheel for dusting.
Check the IC boots and turbo boots. If they look worn, dry or cracked. Get a replacement set so you aren't having to take it all apart again later after a boot fails.

If you still have the foil wrappings on the drivers side IC tube... remove that. You will get a kick out of the extra tusbo whistle. That is jsut for fun tho. Doesnt do anything for performance.