Hello,

Has anyone tried to instal a welder series Triangulated Four Link on a 56 fram with 9" ford rear end?

I'm not sure it can be done correctly, at least not if you follow the instructions!

Sorry if this is a redundant question, I am new to this and have just ordered the parallel four link, as I can't see how the above set up can work between the 30" frame width.

Angelo
Phelpston Ontario

 

HUM!

No takers?

how about an opinion on the Two

Triangulated Four Link opposed to Paralel Four Link with Pan Hard Bar?

the reason I ask is I am after the best handeling I can find and have read that the Triangulated set up is the better of the 2?

Thanks in advance,

Angelo

 

Im in the middle of installing the welder series triangulated four link in my 49. yes the narrow frame width does pose a problem. Im not going to be following the directions exactly. Im gonna have to make a hoop that goes over the center section of my 8.8 to get enough angle on the top bars. I dont think this will change much as long as i keep all the correct angles on the bars.

 

and the triangulated holds the rear in the exact same spot side to side while a parallel with a panhard bar will allow the rear the move side to side slightly which is why a lot of guys prefer the triangulated set up. For street use as long as you make your pan hard bar as long as possible the parallel will be fine.

 

Thanks for the response Gicknordon,
I also e-mailed Welder Series and sent some pictures and he said I could also revrse the triangle and rest the ears on the axcels where they are ment to fit, and instead of going to the frame rails go to a crossmember with a hoop for the drive shaft (wide at the axcels and narrow at the centre of the frame on a crossmember)

I will give this a try before spending more money for a new kit!

Thanks for the reply/input

Angelo

 

Thats a good idea! i didnt even think of that.

 

triangulated four links are tough on these narrow frames. even joining them in the middle on a crossmember requires tall axle tabs to set them at proper angle to clear the driveshaft. i'm installing one now and think im going to mount them atop the pumpkin and raise the bed even more. it's fun fabricating and solving problems but would recommend a parallel set up to anyone thinking about a four link. it is a truck after all not a race car!

 

I ended up reversing the triangle on top

 

Looks good Nick, I'm glad I asked the question!

Paul Horton of Welders Series told me to do it this way if there was any issues with the narrow fram, so I think its good.

Happy Fabricating!

Angelo

 

That looks great. Still haven't installed mine yet...too many projects. Will post pics when I do.

 

Yes, the parallel 4 link is an easier install, but it is a drag racing suspension with many disavantages for the street. IMHO If you are after the best handling, first choice would be a full IRS, second would be a triangulated 3 or 4 link, third would be a trailing arm type suspension, fourth would be the parallel leaf OEM type suspension, then a parallel 4 link.

 

AXracer, i've read the included angle (of the triangulated bars) of most factory setups are 80-90 degrees, with 60 degrees being the absolute minimum. is there a 'sweet spot' for for something like a truck. would you feel a difference of 70 or 80 degrees in a street driven truck?

 

I've not designed a triangulated 3 or 4 bar setup from scratch, I'd need to go research the design parameters in some of my texts to answer your question accurately. I can't get to them until probably next week, they are in an upstairs room, and currently I'm suffering from very painful gout in the ***** of both feet, so I can't climb the stairs.

 

ouch, sorry to hear that.

no problem just wondering, feel better.

thanks!

 

Thanks for the kind words guys. This one took a lot more fabrication than the front end. I'm definitely proud of how its turning out so far. Its not perfect but its very good for my first project.