from Edge to DP - some questions
#76
UNTAMND, I dont have near the air you have with your twin turbos. It will be interesting to see what boost I get, but I'll be limited initially by the PCM - no boost fooler yet. I do need to try out my newly fabbed leak detector and see what might be spewing...
Rich >> thanks for the paint info. I think I'm going to go straight black for now after looking around the cab at the other black accents. Also I did not know that about the 2 minute max above 1250. I do peak at 1300 for a few seconds at a time as I climb the pass and regulate the pedal. Sounds like we're good.
Rich >> thanks for the paint info. I think I'm going to go straight black for now after looking around the cab at the other black accents. Also I did not know that about the 2 minute max above 1250. I do peak at 1300 for a few seconds at a time as I climb the pass and regulate the pedal. Sounds like we're good.
#77
I must be hard on stuff. When I added the pyro gauge a couple of days ago, I pulled the dash cover where the EX switch is temporarily held at the base of it. I think I broke one of the wires in the EX cable, because after putting it all back together, the truck would not start.
It was in position 2, my stock tune, but I think the chip thought it was in 00 (no start). I switched to pos 3 and it started, but went to hi idle. My pos 3 is 80e, so that was strange, but made sense if the second binary wire was open. Position 3 should be 11 in binary, but would show up as 01 with the open wire, looking like position 1 to the chip. Position 1 has my hi idle tune. Position 7 was my drive thru tune, but the truck stayed at normal idle when I switched to 7. 111 is binary position 7, but if the chip saw 101 with the broken wire, it would think it was in position 5, my 40T tune.<O</O
<O</O
Thankfully I had another cable from when we were troubleshooting the chip. I swapped the cable back to the original one, and it works well. I think mounting the EX switch at the pinch point of the dash is hard on the cable (or it's just me). I have the mount to cut it into the dash and will do that quickly to avoid further issues.
It was in position 2, my stock tune, but I think the chip thought it was in 00 (no start). I switched to pos 3 and it started, but went to hi idle. My pos 3 is 80e, so that was strange, but made sense if the second binary wire was open. Position 3 should be 11 in binary, but would show up as 01 with the open wire, looking like position 1 to the chip. Position 1 has my hi idle tune. Position 7 was my drive thru tune, but the truck stayed at normal idle when I switched to 7. 111 is binary position 7, but if the chip saw 101 with the broken wire, it would think it was in position 5, my 40T tune.<O</O
<O</O
Thankfully I had another cable from when we were troubleshooting the chip. I swapped the cable back to the original one, and it works well. I think mounting the EX switch at the pinch point of the dash is hard on the cable (or it's just me). I have the mount to cut it into the dash and will do that quickly to avoid further issues.
#79
Nerds unite. Isnt that the truth? Makes me wonder sometimes how I found my wife.
I have the EX switch in the mount cut into the dash now, and all 4 gauges hooked up. From the good advise here, was able to tap the spider for the boost sensor pre-intercooler - worked very well. Fuel pressure is 62-65, but I've had it drop to near 50 at WOT. Maybe the pump is getting weak or my fuel filter is getting restricted (sensor on lower passenger side of bowl, post filter).
Not sure I need the boost fooler at this point, unless the MAP sensor is taking a beating. Empty, I can get 24psi at WOT, with no SES or apparent defueling, so DP is taking care of it. I pulled and plugged the red line to the wastegate as an experiment and got 26psi, all this in 60e.
Wondering how much boost will change when towing hard this weekend. Also, unless boost pushes 30psi, I'm tempted to leave the red line disconnected and plugged. Can't imagine stock injectors and turbo will push it.
Thoughts?
I have the EX switch in the mount cut into the dash now, and all 4 gauges hooked up. From the good advise here, was able to tap the spider for the boost sensor pre-intercooler - worked very well. Fuel pressure is 62-65, but I've had it drop to near 50 at WOT. Maybe the pump is getting weak or my fuel filter is getting restricted (sensor on lower passenger side of bowl, post filter).
Not sure I need the boost fooler at this point, unless the MAP sensor is taking a beating. Empty, I can get 24psi at WOT, with no SES or apparent defueling, so DP is taking care of it. I pulled and plugged the red line to the wastegate as an experiment and got 26psi, all this in 60e.
Wondering how much boost will change when towing hard this weekend. Also, unless boost pushes 30psi, I'm tempted to leave the red line disconnected and plugged. Can't imagine stock injectors and turbo will push it.
Thoughts?
#80
Oh... and women prefer smarta55es. They're fed up with dating dumba55es when they were girls.
#81
So 31+ in 60e or 80e? Maybe the red line is still needed, depending on how often I get there (probably not much). I've decided 60e is a more manageable DD tune.
I'm going to start out in 40T this weekend. I hear you on the higher rpm shifts - that will be a good strategy in the mountains with this load.
I may still have a boost leak that is preventing max boost. I made the mistake of hooking up the detector after the crankcase vent, so I was adding pressure to the engine seals - not smart. I need to pull the intake bracket on the valve cover and put the detector right on the tube to the turbo and see what I have. As it was, everything seemed tight at 10psi. Might still be an exhaust side leak, though it must be subtle - no obvious soot yet.
EBP sensor came today from Clay so we'll see if that fixes the 2psi difference and results in better MPG/shifting.
#82
Well, I sure enjoyed the tow this last weekend. 40T did the job just fine. I could not exceed 1100 EGT, and had plenty of power. I was a bit lighter with the camper on and just the utility trailer in tow, instead of the boat, about 16200 lbs GCW on the scale east of Monroe. Very pleased. Switched to 60T once. Its not a tweaked tune like the 40T I got from Tugly, but came straight from DP as is. Noticed a power drop when I switched at 1/3rd pedal or so. I wonder if 40T revised tune I have has an earlier tip in. It sure works well. I tried 80T briefly, also a revised tune. Also a good early tip in and good power, but hotter as expected. I did not use it on the steep parts of the pass.
Great shifting strategy on both 40T and 80T, Both keep OD out until over 50mph, higher if the pedal is down. Both drop to direct below 50 so power is ready when needed. Coast clutch stays locked on coasting all the way down to 25mph for nice engine braking.
What a difference from the edge juice, where this thread started.
Great shifting strategy on both 40T and 80T, Both keep OD out until over 50mph, higher if the pedal is down. Both drop to direct below 50 so power is ready when needed. Coast clutch stays locked on coasting all the way down to 25mph for nice engine braking.
What a difference from the edge juice, where this thread started.
#84
Went up hw2. I was able to hold the speeds I wanted. Usually 50 to 55 depending on the condition of the road. Always had pedal travel left, and EGT in check. Never had that with the edge.
That last hairpin turn that slows you down to 40 before the last climb to the top on the west side - used to be I could not get back much more than 47mph, and had to push EGT to 1300 to do it. This time no problem getting back to 55. It will be a little tougher when the boat is on in June - 19000 GCW. Looking forward to that challenge now.
That last hairpin turn that slows you down to 40 before the last climb to the top on the west side - used to be I could not get back much more than 47mph, and had to push EGT to 1300 to do it. This time no problem getting back to 55. It will be a little tougher when the boat is on in June - 19000 GCW. Looking forward to that challenge now.
#85
Well, I sure enjoyed the tow this last weekend. 40T did the job just fine. I could not exceed 1100 EGT, and had plenty of power. I was a bit lighter with the camper on and just the utility trailer in tow, instead of the boat, about 16200 lbs GCW on the scale east of Monroe. Very pleased. Switched to 60T once. Its not a tweaked tune like the 40T I got from Tugly, but came straight from DP as is. Noticed a power drop when I switched at 1/3rd pedal or so. I wonder if 40T revised tune I have has an earlier tip in. It sure works well. I tried 80T briefly, also a revised tune. Also a good early tip in and good power, but hotter as expected. I did not use it on the steep parts of the pass.
Great shifting strategy on both 40T and 80T, Both keep OD out until over 50mph, higher if the pedal is down. Both drop to direct below 50 so power is ready when needed. Coast clutch stays locked on coasting all the way down to 25mph for nice engine braking.
What a difference from the edge juice, where this thread started.
Great shifting strategy on both 40T and 80T, Both keep OD out until over 50mph, higher if the pedal is down. Both drop to direct below 50 so power is ready when needed. Coast clutch stays locked on coasting all the way down to 25mph for nice engine braking.
What a difference from the edge juice, where this thread started.
#86
I do like the setup. Granted I've only tried Edge Juice and DP. I also had the advantage of benefiting from all the tweaking Rich did with DP on the tunes I got from him, designed for nearly the same truck (2000 7.3, similar PCM). I would have needed to work with Jody to dial in the standard tunes they provide - more reason to get the F6 vs F5, at least for efficiency in making adjustments.
I do like the DP switch clean install
I do have to tap the brakes a few times coming down the 6% grade on HW2, but engine braking is good enough to do much of the work, especially since I go down the hill pretty slow 45-50mph, vs the posted 60. Also had the utility trailer's electric brakes to help on this run. So far, I don't miss an exhaust brake. If the grade was longer (more than 2 miles), I would likely consider rebuilding and putting the EBPV pedestal back on and use the brake tune. I've kept the old parts incase my travels grow to other passes beyond this well beaten path.
I do like the DP switch clean install
I do have to tap the brakes a few times coming down the 6% grade on HW2, but engine braking is good enough to do much of the work, especially since I go down the hill pretty slow 45-50mph, vs the posted 60. Also had the utility trailer's electric brakes to help on this run. So far, I don't miss an exhaust brake. If the grade was longer (more than 2 miles), I would likely consider rebuilding and putting the EBPV pedestal back on and use the brake tune. I've kept the old parts incase my travels grow to other passes beyond this well beaten path.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
SUPERDUTY OUTLAW
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
7
02-24-2009 08:33 PM
Douglas DC-9
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
6
06-07-2006 12:18 AM