FICM Question?
#1
02-06-2013, 09:45 PM
FICM Question?
I have a question on my FICM voltage...I think I already know the answer, but am hoping I am wrong...
I have a ScanGauge on my 03' 6.0l X and have been monitoring things since it is relatively new to me.
I have had some weird readings on the High side of my FICM.
Ambient Temp of 39 F
KOEO
Low side voltage 13.0-13.5
High side 48.5
KOER
Low side 13-14.0
High side 33.0
The high side will slowly recover in 1 Volt increments as I drive and over a 4 mile stretch recovers to 45 Volts.
The low side never drops below 13 volts.
Can I live with this on the high side? If not what damage can be done and to what as this is my first diesel. Would an alternator that was only putting out 20 amps at full load wipe the FICM out?
Is there something I need to check first before dropping the $ on an FICM?
Where can I buy a GOOD used one so I can send the original out to get repaired?
I have a ScanGauge on my 03' 6.0l X and have been monitoring things since it is relatively new to me.
I have had some weird readings on the High side of my FICM.
Ambient Temp of 39 F
KOEO
Low side voltage 13.0-13.5
High side 48.5
KOER
Low side 13-14.0
High side 33.0
The high side will slowly recover in 1 Volt increments as I drive and over a 4 mile stretch recovers to 45 Volts.
The low side never drops below 13 volts.
Can I live with this on the high side? If not what damage can be done and to what as this is my first diesel. Would an alternator that was only putting out 20 amps at full load wipe the FICM out?
Is there something I need to check first before dropping the $ on an FICM?
Where can I buy a GOOD used one so I can send the original out to get repaired?
#3
02-06-2013, 11:11 PM
#4
02-06-2013, 11:27 PM
Alt was replaced this past weekend!!!! I had 12.0 to 13.3 Volts at idle and 45 amps not loaded...
I had 12-12.5 Volts at idle with 20-25 amps with full load!!
Parts Jockey that I trust tested the charging system for me.
#5
02-07-2013, 04:24 AM
Are you sure about those values??
Run engine and turn on A/C headlights and everything you got and see what it's putting out.
Idle should be@60 amps +or-
2000 rpm should be @89 amps +or-
That is with OEM Alt.
If you were in Sac area I would give you one being I have 3 oem alts. lol
Oh yea your ficm is done for too, sorry
Run engine and turn on A/C headlights and everything you got and see what it's putting out.
Idle should be@60 amps +or-
2000 rpm should be @89 amps +or-
That is with OEM Alt.
If you were in Sac area I would give you one being I have 3 oem alts. lol
Oh yea your ficm is done for too, sorry
#6
02-07-2013, 07:10 AM
I have a question on my FICM voltage...I think I already know the answer, but am hoping I am wrong...
Can I live with this on the high side? If not what damage can be done and to what as this is my first diesel. Would an alternator that was only putting out 20 amps at full load wipe the FICM out?
Is there something I need to check first before dropping the $ on an FICM?
Where can I buy a GOOD used one so I can send the original out to get repaired?
Can I live with this on the high side? If not what damage can be done and to what as this is my first diesel. Would an alternator that was only putting out 20 amps at full load wipe the FICM out?
Is there something I need to check first before dropping the $ on an FICM?
Where can I buy a GOOD used one so I can send the original out to get repaired?
if, measuring with an ammeter, you only have 20 amps current flow,
there are only a couple reasons for that... the battery is at close to
the same voltage as your alternator output (i.e. fully charged)
or.... the alternator output in voltage is so low, that the battery is
at system voltage. ohms law applies equally to both these conditions.
first, you need an alternator. then you can see if you need a ficm.
when i start up my 6.0, my voltage dips down, but within 10
seconds, my system voltage is 14.8 volts, and the batteries
are being charged again, instead of being drained. at 14.8 volts
the battery is not supplying any power to anything. the alternator
is carrying the whole vehicle load.
even with the engine stone cold and my stereo turned full up for
testing, my system voltage NEVER goes below 14.3 volts, and the
stereo, with the new sub amp, pulls peaks of 215 amps.
ed@ficmrepair sells dc power alternators. call him up and talk to
him. read his website about battery and alternator condition first.
from his website:
"We used to believe that heat and vibration took the top spots,
but have since come to the realization that low supply side voltage
should take the top spot.
Yes, it doesn't take a genious to determine the inherent design issues
with placing these modules on the top of an engine that gets pretty
warm and vibrates continuously. What's not so clear, however, is that
each morning you start your truck it is running only on batteries until
your glow plug circuit has completed.
Of course, this wreaks havoc on a module already asked to take the
nominal 12 volts of supply voltage and convert it to 48 volts.
On that front, recognize the need to maintain fully charged batteries -
batteries with a float voltage of 12.6 or higher that don't dip terribly
for the first few minutes of engine run time. While it's common to
have people report that their batteries' voltage dips down to 11.4
or so during this time, it's these same people that have their FICM's
fail and are left to wonder why.
An excellent primer on batteries can be found at
Battery Stuff.com."
call ed, buy a dc power alternator, put it in your vehicle, THEN
see what needs to be done.
#7
02-08-2013, 09:01 PM
firstly, there are no 20 amp alternators.
if, measuring with an ammeter, you only have 20 amps current flow,
there are only a couple reasons for that... the battery is at close to
the same voltage as your alternator output (i.e. fully charged)
or.... the alternator output in voltage is so low, that the battery is
at system voltage. ohms law applies equally to both these conditions.
first, you need an alternator. then you can see if you need a ficm.
when i start up my 6.0, my voltage dips down, but within 10
seconds, my system voltage is 14.8 volts, and the batteries
are being charged again, instead of being drained. at 14.8 volts
the battery is not supplying any power to anything. the alternator
is carrying the whole vehicle load.
even with the engine stone cold and my stereo turned full up for
testing, my system voltage NEVER goes below 14.3 volts, and the
stereo, with the new sub amp, pulls peaks of 215 amps.
ed@ficmrepair sells dc power alternators. call him up and talk to
him. read his website about battery and alternator condition first.
from his website:
"We used to believe that heat and vibration took the top spots,
but have since come to the realization that low supply side voltage
should take the top spot.
Yes, it doesn't take a genious to determine the inherent design issues
with placing these modules on the top of an engine that gets pretty
warm and vibrates continuously. What's not so clear, however, is that
each morning you start your truck it is running only on batteries until
your glow plug circuit has completed.
Of course, this wreaks havoc on a module already asked to take the
nominal 12 volts of supply voltage and convert it to 48 volts.
On that front, recognize the need to maintain fully charged batteries -
batteries with a float voltage of 12.6 or higher that don't dip terribly
for the first few minutes of engine run time. While it's common to
have people report that their batteries' voltage dips down to 11.4
or so during this time, it's these same people that have their FICM's
fail and are left to wonder why.
An excellent primer on batteries can be found at
Battery Stuff.com."
call ed, buy a dc power alternator, put it in your vehicle, THEN
see what needs to be done.
if, measuring with an ammeter, you only have 20 amps current flow,
there are only a couple reasons for that... the battery is at close to
the same voltage as your alternator output (i.e. fully charged)
or.... the alternator output in voltage is so low, that the battery is
at system voltage. ohms law applies equally to both these conditions.
first, you need an alternator. then you can see if you need a ficm.
when i start up my 6.0, my voltage dips down, but within 10
seconds, my system voltage is 14.8 volts, and the batteries
are being charged again, instead of being drained. at 14.8 volts
the battery is not supplying any power to anything. the alternator
is carrying the whole vehicle load.
even with the engine stone cold and my stereo turned full up for
testing, my system voltage NEVER goes below 14.3 volts, and the
stereo, with the new sub amp, pulls peaks of 215 amps.
ed@ficmrepair sells dc power alternators. call him up and talk to
him. read his website about battery and alternator condition first.
from his website:
"We used to believe that heat and vibration took the top spots,
but have since come to the realization that low supply side voltage
should take the top spot.
Yes, it doesn't take a genious to determine the inherent design issues
with placing these modules on the top of an engine that gets pretty
warm and vibrates continuously. What's not so clear, however, is that
each morning you start your truck it is running only on batteries until
your glow plug circuit has completed.
Of course, this wreaks havoc on a module already asked to take the
nominal 12 volts of supply voltage and convert it to 48 volts.
On that front, recognize the need to maintain fully charged batteries -
batteries with a float voltage of 12.6 or higher that don't dip terribly
for the first few minutes of engine run time. While it's common to
have people report that their batteries' voltage dips down to 11.4
or so during this time, it's these same people that have their FICM's
fail and are left to wonder why.
An excellent primer on batteries can be found at
Battery Stuff.com."
call ed, buy a dc power alternator, put it in your vehicle, THEN
see what needs to be done.
I replaced the Alternator already due to the fact that the AMP output under a full electric load was only 20 AMP!! Tested on the vehicle and off the vehicle with the same results.
I know there are no such things as a 20 AMP Alternator I use to sling parts and at one time was a ASE certified Tech but unfortunately have no prior Diesel experience.
So the issue with the FICM is new to me which led to my thread.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
valutechpc
Excursion - King of SUVs
48
06-28-2015 08:25 AM
hav24wheel
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
10
07-20-2010 09:59 PM