Hey guys,

So I have a 8ft std cab work truck RWD 5.4l gas motor. I sold my bed and upgraded to a new bed. Its a takeoff from a 2011 f250 brand new. I believe it came off a diesel in case it matters since the fuel door has a urea injection fill port also.

Needless to say I got everything. Spent a small fortune on those piece of crap bed bolts and clips. Drilled some new holes for the misasligned filler neck and decided to keep the new tail lights. I stupidly gave the old style tail lights to the guy who my bed. However I did keep the harness. So here is where my problem starts.

The new bed is using the new style tail lights. They use different bulbs, connectors, and wiring colors. The guy cut the harness from the new harness at the connector which connects to the body harness by the PS rear corner of the frame rail. It has 5 wires. My old wiring harness has two quick connectors. An 8 pin circle connector with two indexing tabs on it. It has 8 pins, 6 are used with wires. Then there is a second small circle connector with 2 pins, both being used. Both go into the chassis side wiring harness.

It is freezing outside and I cant spend forever with my multimeter figuring out what does what on both harness to make them work. I search extensively. Does anyone know or can point me in the direction of what colors to do what on both harnesses (either homemade paint art, factory wiring diagrams, or just plain words saying this color on this harness to that color on this harness). I would really appreciate some help hopefully a direct solution so I can wire it together. I am going to cut my hold harness quick connect plug and splice it to the new harness so its plug and play like factory, get new wiring, and use the only tail lights I have (the new ones). Thanks and your help is greatly appreciated.

 

Come on guys, no one has done this? I see people all the time with new beds on old trucks with new tail lights? No one can share the info with me? Not even wiring diagrams for both year rear tail lights?

 

Im not gonna lie. I dont know whats going on with this forum but you guys are maybe the worst forum I have ever been on for exchanging knowledge and info. And this platform has been roughly unchanged for over 13 years with only cosmetic facelifts. Its nuts. Maybe my questions are too complex and you guys make money off such info but geez not a single of my 4 posts even came close to providing any info. Maybe if I contribute some usefull info you guys may actually help other forum members out when questions are asked as I known many have encountered these and several of the other issues.

In any case I figured out the wiring for my bed swap. Its an 00 base work truck. WIth a new 2011 take off bed with square fuel door lid and the new tail lights and wiring harness.

Old harness:
grn/org stripe - left turn +12V
blk/prp stripe - backup +12V
org/blue strp - right turn +12V
solid black - ground -
solid brown - run lamp +12V switched power
(black and brown seperate harness for license plate lamps (black is ground and brown is +12V)

new 11' harness wiring
light blue/white strp = backup +12V
black/white strp = ground
brown/purp stripe = right turn +12V
grey/brown strp = left turn +12V
yellow/gry strp = run lamp +12V switched

So just match up type to type and your done. One caviat is that the license lights work off the +12V switched source and common ground in the new harness for a total of only 1 connector instead of 2 like on the old truck. To fix this you will have to splice the old style 2 wire license plate harness into the old +12V switched and ground together in one twisted pair and then solder or butt splice into the new harness's one wire for each.

On a side note the bed is a direct bolt on. However the fuel filler neck's holes are in a different location. My new bed was a diesel cause it had a port for a urea injection fill port. WHich was capped off. This may be why the difference not sure. But the old style filler neck fits in the right spot. Fuel fills easily. Just drill 3 new holes in the filler neck and use self tapping or the stock screws like I did. Works like a charm. No hole for the gas cap tie down so when your filling up it doesnt get lost. Ohh well I guess. Maybe Ill drill a hole for that too or maybe the new tanks have some sort of different cap or provision. Havent seen a new one in tact yet to check.

Hope that helps someone out and in turn gets some forum karma so I actually get some help instead of checking wires in 2 degree weather.

 

i just did the same swap today,have a 99 f350 and took off(what was left of it) the box and put a new 2012 on.the 2012s must have changed because i had different colors than you had said on a 2011 box.

 

Aomw of the colors are hard to tell since they are very thin stripes etc on the wires. So you may be close if you really look back and compare. But feel free to share your wiring colors so people know in the future. That way this forum actually does stuff for people besides going hey look at my cool new wheels and new lift over and over again.

 

Thank you for the info, did the conversion today and worked perfectly. My wire colors were the same as yours, 2000 V10 4x4 SD.

 

Apparently you spent approximately -0- time reading much in this forum or you'd know the above statement is complete and utter bunk. I've had Ford trucks most all my life, and I didn't know the answer to the question you asked.

Just because the right person didn't happen to come across your question in a time frame short enough to suit you is no reason to get your panties all in a bunch, and then essentially berate the rest of the membership for being useless. Great start.....