advanced stereo/security wiring thoughts
#1
advanced stereo/security wiring thoughts
Ok so I have a security system and decent stereo already, and I was thinking I would like my alarm to have a backup battery in case someone removes my batteries it still can be GPS tracked and work.
I was also thinking I want a battery to run my subs and speakers that can be disconnected from my main batteries so that when I turn off my truck and play music at river fire parties it won't leave me stranded.
So my thoughts are to have my normal heavy gauge power wire that runs from my driver battery to the rear of my truck, and have a hidden battery behind the panel in the back end. Obviously I need to research a high amp hour reserve battery with NO chance of boiling over and spilling acid in my truck. This is still just a thought and I forget if there even is such a battery.
I would use a battery disconnect switch, exactly like safety lockout switches seen on industrial equipment, this will separate my two engine batteries from the stereo system batteries. I would then have my alarm system powered by the rear battery.
This would essentially protect my truck from ever losing its alarm system except for complete rear battery draining, and I could then keep my truck as the party sound system without worrying about my ficm, getting jumped etc. Music dies start the truck.
I would also add a volt meter specifically for this battery.
Oh and for the disconnect switch, I was thinking either a mechanical switch located in the engine bay, or maybe a switched relay much like a starter "solenoid"
There's my half fried idea that I just cooked up in my head, what are your thoughts, input, advice or feelings?
I was also thinking I want a battery to run my subs and speakers that can be disconnected from my main batteries so that when I turn off my truck and play music at river fire parties it won't leave me stranded.
So my thoughts are to have my normal heavy gauge power wire that runs from my driver battery to the rear of my truck, and have a hidden battery behind the panel in the back end. Obviously I need to research a high amp hour reserve battery with NO chance of boiling over and spilling acid in my truck. This is still just a thought and I forget if there even is such a battery.
I would use a battery disconnect switch, exactly like safety lockout switches seen on industrial equipment, this will separate my two engine batteries from the stereo system batteries. I would then have my alarm system powered by the rear battery.
This would essentially protect my truck from ever losing its alarm system except for complete rear battery draining, and I could then keep my truck as the party sound system without worrying about my ficm, getting jumped etc. Music dies start the truck.
I would also add a volt meter specifically for this battery.
Oh and for the disconnect switch, I was thinking either a mechanical switch located in the engine bay, or maybe a switched relay much like a starter "solenoid"
There's my half fried idea that I just cooked up in my head, what are your thoughts, input, advice or feelings?
#3
Ya I would usr a battery disconnect switch or solenoid to open the circuit as needed. I think I'm gonna wire a high amp relay that will connect the battery while the engine is running. Then when the engine is off it opens the circuit leaving it separated from the engine batteries. That way it's safe to work on, relies on the accessory battery when off and while running gets charged by the alternator.
What do you mean by fusing the wire by my alternator?
What do you mean by fusing the wire by my alternator?
#4
I think he is talking about a separate wire from the alt to the battery in the back. Instead of a big gauge wire going frome the front batteries back have (maybe) a 10 gauge wire from the alt to the rear battery for a recharge wire. Like the front batteries are ran.the big gauge wire from the battery in the front only runs the starter. The fuse panel only gets around the same gauge wire as the battery gets from the alt.
I might be wrong though. But sounds right to me.
I might be wrong though. But sounds right to me.
#6
Gotcha, yes I always fuse everything as close to the battery as possible any time you wire something direct to battery. It's incredibly unsafe to not do so!
I just looked up battery isolators and that's exactly what I was referring to just with a fancier name than a relay.
As far as battery agm sounds like my best bet.
I totally forgot about ground, I need a very solid ground connection. Frame would be best, sheet metal of the interior may not be sufficient and I've seen enough electrical issues because of bad ground. I'm thinkin if I drill a hole have a large gauge copper fitting with a bolt through the sheet metal. On each side will be a ground wire and washer going from battery to bolt from bolt to frame and then silicone around the connection underneath the vehicle to waterproof it and prevent corrosion etc.
Then the only thing left would be battery location and making sure its secure and won't move. Either behind the rear panel with the spare tire, or if I relocate the spare tire I have a great spot with hole already to make a good mount.
I just looked up battery isolators and that's exactly what I was referring to just with a fancier name than a relay.
As far as battery agm sounds like my best bet.
I totally forgot about ground, I need a very solid ground connection. Frame would be best, sheet metal of the interior may not be sufficient and I've seen enough electrical issues because of bad ground. I'm thinkin if I drill a hole have a large gauge copper fitting with a bolt through the sheet metal. On each side will be a ground wire and washer going from battery to bolt from bolt to frame and then silicone around the connection underneath the vehicle to waterproof it and prevent corrosion etc.
Then the only thing left would be battery location and making sure its secure and won't move. Either behind the rear panel with the spare tire, or if I relocate the spare tire I have a great spot with hole already to make a good mount.
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Shepherd, I am jealous! I am looking to buy the F650 dash soon here and your setup looks solid. Who makes the battery mount box? It's well made. My issue is getting a large gauge power wire from underneath the vehicle into the interior. I also do the occasional mudding/off-road trips.
On a side note your undercarriage and axles are beautiful all clean rust free and painted! When I get time I'm gonna follow sammie's example and clean and rust paint my undercarriage.
On a side note your undercarriage and axles are beautiful all clean rust free and painted! When I get time I'm gonna follow sammie's example and clean and rust paint my undercarriage.
#9
It's a Ford box, came on E350 SD and ambulances Brand New Ford E Series Battery Support 4C2Z 10769 AA | eBay
I just drilled a hole in the floorboards and ran it thru a piece of conduit. You can also use a bulkhead connector.
I just drilled a hole in the floorboards and ran it thru a piece of conduit. You can also use a bulkhead connector.
#10
XS Power D6500 12V AGM Battery, Max Amps 3900A - 4000W - SSA STORE
two of these and you should be good
two of these and you should be good
#11
Holy crap thats a powerful battery.
For my under the hood batteries I ALWAYS use marine deep cycle batteries with the auxiliary posts so I can easily add power sources for electrical mods. If they make one of those batteries with posts I know what I'm getting next!
That battery would be great for a frame rail mounted stereo battery!
I also found these things called battery feeder studs that can be installed to give power through the body and can easily be made waterproof.
I'm really thinking that I will mount a frame battery close to the back end, use a feeder stud and have it power my two amps for my subs and door speakers. I will also run a switched battery isolator so that I can keep my starting batteries at full charge and just play music off the one high power battery on the frame. I would also use this battery to power my security system with a small hidden capacitor just in case.
Full control, no getting stranded, redundant security system and better power to the amplifiers. It sounds like a good set up.
For my under the hood batteries I ALWAYS use marine deep cycle batteries with the auxiliary posts so I can easily add power sources for electrical mods. If they make one of those batteries with posts I know what I'm getting next!
That battery would be great for a frame rail mounted stereo battery!
I also found these things called battery feeder studs that can be installed to give power through the body and can easily be made waterproof.
I'm really thinking that I will mount a frame battery close to the back end, use a feeder stud and have it power my two amps for my subs and door speakers. I will also run a switched battery isolator so that I can keep my starting batteries at full charge and just play music off the one high power battery on the frame. I would also use this battery to power my security system with a small hidden capacitor just in case.
Full control, no getting stranded, redundant security system and better power to the amplifiers. It sounds like a good set up.
#12
#13
Got to agree that's a nice looking underside and I'm kind of a stalker of the under side of trucks, been known to peek under while trolling through the Lowes parking lot!