This is what *I* did, your mileage may vary, do so at your own risk, this can be dangerous and you could die and just overall have a very bad day, don't be stupid, use common sense and good judgement, have a BC rated fire extinguisher at the ready, If you don't know or are not sure, seek professional assistance before hand including psychiatry if applicable, put the toilet seat down she'll appreciate it, Tofu is yucky, Got it? Good!
I have a 2001 Ford Expedition XLT, 4.6L 2WD, Standard suspension, 70K Miles.
Over a couple of months twice it didn't want to start, but eventually did after a few minutes.
These were cold mornings so I thought that had something to do with it.
Then the third time, nada. Just wouldn't start at all.
Fuel gauge is working.
Tossed on a code reader - no codes.
Tossed a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail - 0 PSI.
Checked the fuses and relays - good.
Checked the kill switch (at the passenger kick panel) - good.
Listened for a hum at the fuel filler - nothing.
Replaced fuel filter - wasn't necessary, but couldn't hurt at $10.
At the last connector closest to the fuel pump...
Connector C415M is the 14" long pigtail that goes to the fuel pump assembly.
It is located on the inside of the frame behind the LR tire.
PK/BK (Pink with Black Stripe) wire is +12VDC to the fuel pump,
BK (Black) wire is the ground to the fuel pump.
In this photo there are seven pins, the middle two bottom pins go to the fuel pump.
The top three are gold, the bottom four are silver in color.
When I first saw this I thought it was corrosion, but it's not.
(For some reason if I try to make this display as an image, the post no longer word wraps.)
KEY ON, ENGINE OFF - Checked the voltage: 12V for 3 seconds, then 6V after that (weird but seems to be normal).
Ran a fused wire directly from the battery to the fuel pump - nothing.
Beat on the bottom of the fuel tank with a dead blow hammer - nothing.
Dealer wanted $1100 ($600 for the fuel pump + $500 labor), KBB value on my car is $3500, So for them to replace the fuel pump would be 1/3rd the cost of my car?! Other places wanted between $500 and $700.
I had just filled the tank so there was still about 20 gal of gas in the tank (around 160 lbs) and I didn't have any place to empty it to. I really didn't want to be under a 4000 lb car with a 6ft long gas tank with 20 gallons of gas sloshing around while being balanced on the top of a floor jack.
I even pulled the the trim and carpet from within the cab to see if there might have been an access hatch, or if I could cut one myself - nope (of course not, silly Ford Engineers).
The filler neck of the gas tank is on the long end, and closest to the rear bumper. If I lowered the rear end first (where the fuel lines/pump are), I'd have gas all on the ground.
Ok, screw it, maybe if I empty enough gas I can at least lighten the weight a bit. Went to try and siphon the tank, hose won't go in. then I found this video explaining why:
Someone suggested that I remove the hose from the filler neck and siphon from there. When I went to look, I saw that the filler neck was 4ft long pipe, then about 12" of hose, then the fuel tank.
THIS IS WHEN I NOTICED...
Hey, there is a LOT of room right above the fuel tank!!!
I dropped the spare tire, chocked the front tires, jacked up the left-rear tire about 3" off the ground, and put the axle on a jack stand and that gave me full access (well as much as possible that is) to the fuel pump!
Disconnected the battery and went in!
I would highly suggest the you try to clean off the top of the fuel pump (brush, compressed air, etc) as best as you can. This way there is less chance of anything falling into the open gas tank.
There are two fuel lines (you'll need the fuel filter release tool to remove them, the gold 3/8" one, $13 - 4 Piece Fuel and Auto Trans Line Disconnect Tool Set
) plus two evap hoses.
Because of course the last fuel line is just 2" out of reach, I had to make a tool using 1/2" PVC pipe, 24-30" long. I cut a notch 3" long so it looks like the letter "C" when viewed from the end. I used a coping saw, you could use a dremel too. This allowed me to the place the removal tool on the line, then use the pvc pipe to push it all the way into the fuel line to release it. This also gives you a pivot point to use a long screwdriver to pry off the stuck fuel line once it's been released from the latches.
[Future photo goes here when I take one]
The way the fuel pump assembly is secured in the tank is with a 7" diameter plastic ring that screws on like a mason jar. It has tapered threads so never free turns till it's completely off. there are "grip tabs" on the outside of the ring every few inches.
I used an old (dull tip) 24" crow bar and a 2LB dead blow hammer to tap on these tabs until the ring came loose. A long and tedious process btw.
Now, it's the gas fumes that like to catch on fire more so that the actual liquid. The small space right above the gas tank is enclosed so there is no air movement and the fumes can accumulate. BE VERY CAREFUL ABOUT OPEN FLAMES OR SPARKS, like from hitting a metal crow bar with a hammer is a very bad idea.
I used a dead blow hammer for two reasons:
1) It's covered in plastic - no metal on metal sparking potential.
2) It exerts a force far greater than even a sledge hammer could to.
Once the ring is removed, you can GENTLY lift the fuel pump assembly out, though you might have to turn and lift a bit so you don't bend/damage the fuel sender float arm. Also, there is a gasket (green in my case) just under the edge of the rim of the assembly that you don't want to damage or let fall into the tank.
This is the top of the removed (YAY) fuel pump assembly:
This is the fuel pump assembly with the new pump installed (you'll need to have two hose clamps as the factory ones are the permanent crimped non-removable type). You can also see the green gasket, it is not glued into place, just still stuck there from being compressed for the last 10 years so be sure not to muck with it or you'll have a hell of a time getting it aligned up when to you go to install it back in the tank - Wanna guess how I know this???
The whole assembly is keyed and only goes in the tank one-way. There is even an arrow on the top of the assembly that face towards the front bumper.
Once you get the assembly back in the tank and aligned correctly, you'll still have to use the crow bar and dead blow hammer to screw it back in place. Be careful not to strip the threads when you first start to screw it in. It's a PITA to get it started, but just take your time and it'll go. You'll know when you've tapped it closed far enough when you can no longer lift the fuel pump assembly and it feels secure and solid.
Ok, sure, there might have been a better, faster, easier way, but this is what worked for me without having to drop the tank. Hopefully it can help out someone else.
AND FOR THE LOVE OF GAWD... NO MORE IN-TANK FUEL PUMPS!!!
I don't care that it keeps the fuel pump running cool (there are external fuel pumps that don't need this, it's just ford being cheap is all) and that you shouldn't have to ALWAYS keep 1/4 tank of gas to prevent from burning out the fuel pump, Ford Engineers could of added an isolated reservoir to the tank to accomplish this!
I did consider just adding an external in-line fuel pump...
1) At the time I didn't have one available to test it out.
2) I wasn't sure if it would fail smog/emissions testing.
I DO believe that it would work though. the internal pump only give a very slight resistance when sucked through, so it should be free flowing enough to use an external pump and just suck through the (dead) in-tank pump. But this could prematurely burnout the external pump.
There is a spot just above the fuel filter that an external pump would fit if you are so bold to try it.
Oh, if you happen to have a 2001 Hyundai
Sante Fe laying around that you can harvest a fuel pump from, GO FOR IT! It's the same pump, just different plastic pieces.
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