I'd be reluctant to have anything but nice wires (no joints, no heat shrink,etc) under the points plate. It needs to flex as the plate rotates from vacuum advance. It is constantly moving. Anything stiffening the wire could restrict the plate's movement or cause a wire failure from flexing.

I've never installed a Pertronix but I just can't imagine the grommet is that much trouble that it isn't easier to just replace the wire.

 

So you are saying a spliced wire with solder would not flex or bend. Good point.

I can't replace the whole wire because the wire is integral with the Pertronix component. I can't open it up and put new wires in it....

 

Google "solder sleeve" They would be the ideal repair for a small conductor, very fine wire such as you're dealing with. They're designed for exactly what you have. If you have not made a suitable repair and are interested, pm your address to me and I'll send you a few. Like any repair, they must not be in a flexing area of the wire.

 

Solder would have to be used very sparingly. Enough to make your connection and no more.

I installed a Pertronix unit in a 383 Mopar and it didn't seem complicated at all. I'm just not familiar with a stock Effie dizzy I guess. Post a PIC when you are done if you can Abe.

 

The wires are molded into the body of the module. No replacing these. They have high voltage silicone insulation and are quite flexible, like good test leads. I'd solder and seal w/ heat-shrink that has glue inside, but, I'm an engineer and have soldered regularly for decades. Careful routing to allow for contact-free flexure is required even with a new module. Speaking of which, a new module may be the best way to go.
If this is for a load-o-Matic, I have a new #91282 module that I do not need and could let it go cheaply. But, I think I remember it wasn't a low-d'oh!- Matic.
I modified my carb and custom-fit a 91281 to a brant new Richporter RPT FD06 distributor.

 

It's not complicated. I put one in my '70 F350 3 weeks ago (actually it was a Hot Spark), nice and easy. But the problem is that the grommet did not go in easy and in that process some of the insulation tore when it stretched. The Hot Spark wires had a tougher, less stretchy insulation. I would have gone with Hot Spark this time but they do not make one for 6 volt Pos ground.

At this point I think I will pull the wires out of the grommet, put the heat shrink on exposed spots (very small) and try to put the wires back in the grommet. Failing that then I will put a dab of silicon in the hole of the distributor body to hold them in place and to seal the dizzy.

 

I would need to see exactly what you are working with, but two possibilities come to my mind:
1. Go to Home Depot, Lowes, Radio Shack and get a bottle or tube of "liquid electrical tape". Paint over the torn spot in the insulation. Let dry. Add another coat if needed. Good to go.
2. Remove grommet, repair wire. Split grommet on one side down to the hole with a razor blade. Push the grommet open sideways and starting at the split "screw" the grommet back into place. Put a drop of silicone, liquid electrical tape, or med viscosity super glue on the grommet split to glue it back together.

 

The grommet doesn't need to be that tight on the wires or in the dizzy, IMO. If you can fix the wire, bore out the grommet so it's easier to get the wires thru and make it easier to fit into the hole in the dizzy. A dab of RTV will seal it if you think it needs it.

 

Hey guys, Thanks! Both are good ideas. I will look for liquid electrical tape. I am well armed with several solutions for a couple of scenarios.

I think I will wait until Sat. Supposed to be warmer here then. Cold weather can make you more frustrated, can't it?

 

I have found that liquid electrical tape doesn't stick to silicone or Teflon insulation.
Am I just a spoil-sport today or what? Sorry, my $0.02.

 

Oh, no. You are very helpful... but I don't plan on putting it on silicon or to teflon insulation....

 

Do that, at least for now, because it will probably work fine. It does move around, but it's not like it's a suspension component. Turn off the internet for awhile if you have to.

Post a PIC if it doesn't look like it's holding up to you, and we'll complicate your llfe some more later if you want us to.

 

I really have to agree with Axe's suggestion #2, cut grommet and use silicone to stick it back together. That's kind of win-win.

 

OK Friends and helpers,

I want to bring you up to date with my saga. Last week I got the Pertronix Ignitor in the truck. I used Liquid tape to insulate the wire where needed. I gave it several coats. Since it was very cold I used a heat gun to help cure it. I waited a day and put another coat on. Then I waited a day to work with it. I was able to pull the wire through the grommet so just enough wire was inside the distributor body. The places that were fixed with Liquid Tape are quite flexible and were inside the dizzy body. To hold the wires in place in the distributor I held them together with a small, very small plastic zip strip. There was one spot on a wire outside the distributor body that needed Liquid Tape and one spot that I put heat shrink on. I wired everything up to the new Flamethrower coil per the instructions. I turned the key, hit the starter button, but the engine turned very slowly. I put the battery charger on overnight thinking I hadn't run the truck since September...

The next day it cranked the same slow way. So today I took the starter off. Earlier this fall when I spoke to the local Auto Electronic Shop, the guy there said he thinks the starter needed rebuilt. I thought not since it was rebuilt 13 years ago...

So I will report back when I get the rebuilt starter back on!

 

Bump start with unknown timing can be a great challenge. Good idea on starter repair.