Rhopper how is it working for you?

 

So fa, so good. I put a layer of peel and seal on most interior surfaces, over the hmls, two on the floor. I have no druming or droning, the cab feels well insulated.

 

Thanks for the info! Just want to get the best bang for my buck.

 

I used Dynamat with Dynaliner over it. Heat and sound were reduced significantly. Many say that it's expensive, but some deals can be found if you really search around. Was easy to install. There are some pics in my gallery.

 

Hey guys.....what experience have you had applying what you used in the winter? It's the teens-20's here in Hoosier land and I don't want things slip-sliding away....
thanks!

 

Are you working in a heated garage? Most products I have used stick to cool metal, but I wouldn't do it in anything close to freezing temps. If it isn't warm out I hold the product up near a heat source. My wall mounted NAT Gas heater works awesome. I have seen people use heat guns, hair dryers etc.

 

Condensation is not adhesion-friendly.

 

No, no heated garage....i've got a daisy propane heater, but that's about it....sounds like the wifes hair dryer is going to get some overtime work.......;
leaning toward the RAAMT product........sound deadener looks good too, but confusing on application.......Dynamat looks good too, but...spendy......; just damn confusing......want ease of application and sure don't want any tar/odor........also, the deadening and absorbtion differences........just need to decide and pull the trigger...

 

Has anyone tried the microballs mixed with something like Por15?

 

Everything you mentioned will sound deaden your truck. None of the products smell. You haven't mentioned a 2000 watt stereo so just pick one you like. If you install now, warm it up best you can and for a good while. As Horvath mentions condensation is not your friend. You won't be the first to do it in cold weather based on audio threads I have read.

 

I was wondering the same thing? Sound proofing w/ por-15.... Seems this would work very well. (Other than the cost?)

 

Hey guys......did some reading on the por-15.....sounds like something i should do prior to the sound insulation. the floor has a fair amount of surface rust (mixed in with painted/bare spots.....anyone used this.....looks like something i should do.
Thoughts?
Thanks guys!

 

I'm of the opinion that microspheres might "break" over time and render the POR15 somewhat porous. Perhaps an undercoat with no microspheres followed by an insulated coat might provide the best long-term rust resistance.

 

I have used por-15 throughout my build so far... It is some awesome stuff! The main word of advice, when you use it, try to use the whole can, or make sure and clean every drop of paint off the top. (seal locations) If you don't, you have to destroy the can to get it back open. After destroying my first can, I bought the six pack. A little higher in price, but not as much waste.

I just ordered another quart can today, but have the bottom of the cab, inner fenders, and some misc. parts to paint. If I do have any left I am going to put the remaining liquid in a water bottle. This works somewhat well. (Also from previous experience)

 

Kinda funny to me, how we are automotive enthusiasts and nobody wants to smell tar or asphalt....really????? I love me some 90wt in my coffee!