1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

sound insulation

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  #16  
Old 01-31-2013, 09:22 PM
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Guys, REALLY appreciate all the feedback. Sounds like there are quite a few good options out there. Are you guys using the same materials under (above) the headliner? I've heard some of the products can come loose and hang under hot, sunny weather....THAT would be bad....
Any experiences with that?
Thanks again!
Scott
 
  #17  
Old 02-02-2013, 05:44 PM
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I use a generic brand of dynomat, then painted over it with bedliner like heat/sound spray. I sanded the cab to provide better adhesion and do not anticipate any problems. I am using the brush on sound insulation on the floor mat stuff, did not want to put it on the ceiling for the same reason you mentioned. I also bought the products from LMC (macs carries too) for the insulation type panels to go over everything else....
Hoping for a quiet ride and one that will hold heat... Not running air so the more heat I can keep in the engine bay the better.

Good Luck on your choice. I have pics on my thread, I am cheap and did not use the mat as a solid layer, but have read it works nearly as well as the full coverage.
 
  #18  
Old 02-02-2013, 06:08 PM
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I used the vibration dampener (black sticky) panels and 1" 3M thinsulate pads above the headliner (from Don at sound deadener showdown) they seem to work well, its hard to remember how loud it was before. Living in southern Nevada desert I have used the sticky panels from both of the venders I listed above with no adhesion problems during the summer time.


Good luck in your quest.
 
  #19  
Old 02-02-2013, 07:16 PM
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I used home made lizard skin (hmls) on all interior surfaces. Go to hotrodders.com, general rodding tech, I think. There's a thread on making your own lizard skin. It's cheap and it works. Over that is peel and seal from lowes. I've had no problems with melting or smell as some have claimed. It's been parked in 105 degree heat, windows up and no problems. On the roof and vertical surfaces I used contact cement along with the adhesive that's already on it. I'm happy with the results and I have less than $100 invested.
 
  #20  
Old 02-02-2013, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by rhopper
....... It's cheap and it works. Over that is peel and seal from lowes. I've had no problems with melting or smell as some have claimed. It's been parked in 105 degree heat, windows up and no problems. On the roof and vertical surfaces I used contact cement along with the adhesive that's already on it. I'm happy with the results and I have less than $100 invested.
Yup, that myth is perpetuated by manufacturers who would rather you pay 500% more for their products. I've used peal and seal on no less than 5 vehicles. It deadens sound very nicely. I've also tried some expensive products too, and I can tell no performance difference at all. Peal and Seal installed in the 53 around 2003. Still looks and works like the day it was installed.
 
  #21  
Old 02-03-2013, 06:24 AM
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Dynamat Extreme for me, none of that cheap asphalt based crap that smells like road tar and will dry and crack over time.
$139 for the bulk pack.



 
  #22  
Old 02-03-2013, 11:34 AM
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you can make your own lizardskin with latex house paint and "micro *****" . get them from a aircraft supply house for big aircraft or models.s cheep 2 lbs is a lot mix it half an half your color of paint. get the paint at china mart that they have mixed but not sold ......
 
  #23  
Old 02-04-2013, 03:18 PM
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Oldford, that's exactly what I'm talking about. Home made lizard skin. Wicks aircraft supply sells the glass microspheres. I understand they are used by the model aircraft folks in their fillers. Miss tint exterior latex paint can be purchased for a couple of dollars a gallon. You may even be able to have them change the tint somewhat to make it more liveable unitl you get your interior done. One gallon, mixed pretty thick with the microspheres, covered my interior with two coats brushed on.
 
  #24  
Old 02-04-2013, 03:45 PM
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  #25  
Old 02-04-2013, 04:27 PM
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I used the peel and seal gutter sealer from Lowe's or Home Depot on my '78. Still good about 7 years and 140K later.
 
  #26  
Old 02-04-2013, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by rhopper
Oldford, that's exactly what I'm talking about. Home made lizard skin.
I've got a new project coming up. Got a link or recipe for the home brew lizardskin? Like my peel and seal but I'm curious. Not a clue what the microsphere thing is about.
 
  #27  
Old 02-04-2013, 07:04 PM
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Tell us more! When are you going to try it? On what?
 
  #28  
Old 02-04-2013, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by bjmayberry2
Tell us more! When are you going to try it? On what?
Nothing exciting. Future old Ford projects are on hold while I build spare engines for no apparent reason. There is something very wrong with me

My Cherokee is getting some audio and thought it would be a good candidate for some sound deadening. It's lifted, noisy and heavy so a good test. Most sound deadeners are very heavy and I don't need more weight on the Jeep.
 
  #29  
Old 02-04-2013, 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by yamagrant
I went with Yama on this. I used reflectix. It is a heat insulator so it will keep the cab cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. The sound deadening is a bonus. Covered it on the floor with carpet and used a 1" aluminum angle on the door jams to protect the carpet egdes.
 
  #30  
Old 02-05-2013, 10:51 AM
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Fenders, I read all about hmls on hotrodders . com, in the general rodding tech forum. It's a multi page thread that's been going for quite awhile and it's on the first page right now. There was some disussion as to spraying or brushing it. I didn't want to buy a gun just to spray it so I mixed it alittle thicker and brushed it. One gallon of paint, split into two cans to make mixing easier. Enough glass balloons to get to almost a peanut butter consistency, just alittle thinner. Painted the entire interior with two coats. Lizard skin says spray to credit card thickness, about .040 and that's what I got with a brush.
 


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