Prob wouldn't use the motorized stuff... and re-upholstered of course

1974 Plymouth Station Wagon Power Bench Seat

57" wide, 36" tall

 

I see potential there. There are a ton of things a good uphosterer could do with that. Different color and texture combinations could give it a lot of different looks. A combination of cloth and leather could look really good. The roll in as it goes up looks like it would fit the shape of the cab nicely.

I want a seat with the center arm rest like that because I don't know what to do with my right arm when I'm driving.

 

Hot rod driving: left arm out the window, right hand on wheel

 

That whole armrest thing has me thinking:

Though you may not drive a great big Cadillac
Gangsta whitewalls, TV antennas in the back
You may not have a car at all
But remember brothers and sisters
You can still stand tall
Just be thankful for what you got.
Diamond in the back, sunroof top
Diggin' the scene with a gangsta lean



BTW: I need some sort of arm rest or my back gets angry. I like the seats.

 

Why not use the power? It's nice to be able to adjust your seating position at the touch of a switch. Only requires one power lead.

 

I didn't catch where that was going until the last 2 verses...LMAO...

 

Yup, did that with mine, very comfy and someone smaller than you could move up the seat, if you let anyone else drive your truck LOL

 

Didn't use neither on mine, kinda tricky turning corners.

 

Touché!!!
Checkmate.
You sunk my battleship.

 

I too need the armrest

 

So if I go with a one piece bucket seats kinda look, like the ones I posted above, how do I determine if the driver seat will be centered to the steering wheel?

 

Measure from the center of the cab to the center of the steering wheel. Then measure from the center of the seat assembly to the center of the driver's seat/headrest.

 

Something else you need to consider is mounting the seat. First, the seat is probably too low as it is now, so you'll have to fab up a mount. The floor of the truck is not flat and the mounting points on the seat are probably not on the same plane. I went through this with Whitey (my F1) after I got a great deal on a pair of power leather bucket seats out of a Nissan 300Z.
I worked it out using the original seat hole mounts by putting a piece of angle iron about 2x2, 1/4" thick over each hole, marked and drilled the angle iron to line up to the stock threaded holes in the floor. Then I bolted them down. Then I used a piece of 1x1 tube cut it to fit angle iron, leveled, and spot welded. Then another piece of tube from the front to back measurement and tacked that in to make a level rectangle. Put the seat on the rectangle and see where the mounting points on the seat are and make tabs to meet up with mounting points and weld them to your frame. Make sure everything is level and square. It sounds harder to do than it is. Hope that helps Dean

 

I see great potential here!

 

If you build a seat riser or move the seat mount, make sure it is strong enough to withstand the extreme forces involved in an accident! You don't want it ripping loose and flying forward cutting you in 1/2 with the seat belt as it "ejection seats" you thru the windshield or impales you on the steering column. There are no airbags to stop you in our trucks. Place the mounts in the factory locations thru the factory reinforcement, or if you must bolt to the sheetmetal part of the floor, bolt thru an 1/8" or thicker 3x3" or larger back up plate on the underside of the floor. If you are totally fabrication challenged most racing suppliers like Summit or Jegs sell reinforcing plates meant for racing harness installation. Use 3/8" grade 5 or higher fine thread bolts, nuts and washers (DON'T use standard washers and nuts with hardened bolts, the fastener is only as strong as the weakest link.).