Hi, does anyone have a brake line diagram for the 97 Explorer. I have a line that is weak and needs to be changed. Starts at the ABS Module and goes down to the frame, and then disappears!! My daily driver so I need some help ASAP! Thanks.
Cheers,
Mike

 

You may need to disconnect the line at the ABS module so that you can wiggle it and try to follow it that way. There will likely be some clips along the way that will prevent it from wiggling all the way to the rear axle, but the clips should at least be accessible so you can trace a couple feet at a time.

Doesn't sound like a lot of fun, good luck!

-Rod

 

Thanks for the reply, with enough digging I found a partial ABS diagram which pointed out which lines were which. The line I need to replace is the front passenger side. My question is, does this line go to the proportioning valve or just straight to the wheel. The one on the driver side just goes from the module straight to the caliper. Would it be safe to assume the other side is the same? Going straight to the other side looks like an adventure going through all the 4x4 that is there! No, this is not going to be a fun fix!!!!

 

There's no mention in the factory service manual of a proportioning valve. I don't know if that necessarily means there isn't one on the vehicle, but if you don't see one, it's probably not there. Considering the ABS HCU needs to be able to modulate the front and rear brakes independently, it wouldn't surprise me if there is no proportioning valve.

-Rod

 

RABS replaced the proportioning valve and load valve in most trucks in the early 90s. If yours has the ATO three channel system, then the one for the right front is labeled VR on the pump just above where the line threads in. Left front is labeled VL, and the rear is HA. All three lines split off just inboard the left side shock tower, the one to the left loops to the rear a bit before going forward to cross under the engine, while the rear one drops down to run along the frame with the fuel lines.

 

Thank you for your replies, I can at least go in with my eyes open. Now for the fun part! Take care and have a great weekend.
Cheers,
Mike

 

With the info I got I was able to create a brake line, install it and bleed successfully!! It took about two hours to do. The line that was weak was the right front, so I ran some line from the ABS module around the top of the engine bay and down to the caliper. Used Fluid Film penetrant for the old fittings and they came off easily. As for the ABS module, the line at the fender is for the rear, middle for the front left, far inside for the right front. No proportioning valve on the vehicle. With a little patience you can save big money doing brake lines yourself, they might be a pain but!! I saved close to 300 dollars by taking a couple of hours on a Tuesday afternoon.
Thanks once again and have a great week.
Cheers,
Mike

 

Thank you for the follow-up, and congratulations on getting the brakes fixed!

-Rod

 

Hi Everyone, fixed the first line, then the rear went, fixed that one, then the left front went! All two or three days apart. Lesson learned, once corrosion sets in, change them all!! (check them in the summer, the winter is no fun changing these things!) I also found out using anti-sieze on the lines will stop the corrosion process. Lots of salt and sand used here in Ontario, Canada. Thanks once again and have a great day.

 

Yep, my Dad learned that the hard way too. It only took a couple of disgruntled customers who brought their cars in to have a brake leak fixed. Of course they wouldn't want to pay for Dad to replace all the steel lines when "only 1 is leaking." They they were irate when within a weak the next weak spot was exposed and started leaking.

The weakest point will start leaking first, then once that weak spot is fixed, it's only a matter of time before the next weakest point will make itself known, as you've now discovered as well.

-Rod