1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: Moser

Suggestions for bed rust repair

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 04-05-2014, 11:36 PM
PRUSue's Avatar
PRUSue
PRUSue is offline
Mountain Pass
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 207
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Suggestions for bed rust repair

So I took the bedliner off my '73 F100 shortbed today and found a nasty (not so) surprise- lots of rust. The tailgate side of the bed is OK, but up near the front panel out at the corners the rust has eaten through the bed floor in some small places. What are some suggestions for the best way to repair this (and eventually get ready to paint the whole truck)
1. Just source a donor bed? Seems extreme since the rest of the bed is fine.
2. I have not found a repop bed floor for the shortbed. I could buy the long bed version and cut it down. That gets most of the problem solved, but not the corners?
3. Try to cut a few big patches off a donor truck if I could find one?

I'll try and get some photos later
 
  #2  
Old 04-06-2014, 12:06 AM
HIO Silver's Avatar
HIO Silver
HIO Silver is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: NorCal
Posts: 20,676
Received 58 Likes on 48 Posts
The bed is the workimg end of a truck so unless yer going for a cheery resto, the low buck option is to cut, fab, patch and weld. Head to the yard with a recip and get what ya need... that is assuming the x-members and bed sides are decent enough to fill, block, and prime.

Pics would help...kinda flying blind at the moment.
 
  #3  
Old 04-06-2014, 12:09 AM
jamusfam's Avatar
jamusfam
jamusfam is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 404
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
If its bad enough lmc has the parts. I'm getting floor panels for my truck from them for in my cab, you can check them for the bed floor. Not sure on price. But that said do you have time to do it or want a quick fix.... If there's no time than a new bed would work. Do you or know someone who can weld and save you money.... For me since my brother is a welder he said he's doing it free. I'm still going to do something for him but I think you get the point.
 
  #4  
Old 04-06-2014, 10:37 PM
tbear853's Avatar
tbear853
tbear853 is offline
Lead Driver
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Shenandoah Valley
Posts: 7,372
Received 1,282 Likes on 1,084 Posts
I bought a piece of 11 gage steel 5 feet wide by 10 feet long, cut length to fit bed floor, notched sides 6" deep for fender wells, bolted in place using carriage bolts through into galvanized inner bed sides in three places ahead of and behind each fender well hump.

Then I got two pieces of same 11 gage about half as long as inside of head wall at widest, cut to highth of flat portion of head wall plus 2", had a 2" lip formed with a brake, trimmed ends to fit inside head wall and them to butt in center, welded them to floor and each other and bolted to head wall with some more 5/16 carriage bolts just under lip where head wall kicks out.
 
  #5  
Old 04-06-2014, 11:12 PM
Xauterus's Avatar
Xauterus
Xauterus is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Brisbane Australia
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
The floor will fit out of up to 96 tub. Might be a good source for donor metal.
 
  #6  
Old 04-06-2014, 11:21 PM
Jklnhyd's Avatar
Jklnhyd
Jklnhyd is offline
Postmaster
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Pasadena, Ca
Posts: 2,595
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 3 Posts
If a donor bed is around $300 like here, i would say get the donor. If its harder to find, then cut n paste.
 
  #7  
Old 04-07-2014, 01:21 PM
scooter79's Avatar
scooter79
scooter79 is offline
Freshman User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Just cut out the center section on my newest short bed. I ran into the same thing you did on replacement patches. The problem with those are they are not indented where the mounts are. Our local metal shop quoted me 174.00 for a 49 1/4 x 83 3/16 sheet. Going that route. I did consider removing a floor for another truck but it would be junk after you get it out. If it was dented up the metal is stretched and prob fit like crap anyways.
 
  #8  
Old 06-01-2014, 03:06 PM
PRUSue's Avatar
PRUSue
PRUSue is offline
Mountain Pass
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 207
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Thanks for the replies and sorry I've haven't posted any useful pics yet. The getting a piece of 15g steel cut to match the floor is appealing. Is it corrugated at all (like our beds) or flat? Seems like flat would wobble and not be sturdy enough. Some pics of your all sheet metal bed would be cool.

At the moment, I'm planning on removing the bed and finding a donor cab. At the pick'n pull (LKQ) around here a bed is between $150-$200, so cheaper than any LMC replacement panels. I was going to look for a newer donor short bed (thanks for the tip that any up to '96 will work), and cut out the floor and paste it in. I've heard that post '79 beds had 6 instead of 8 bolt holes, though I haven't checked yet. That is not too big a deal, just drill where needed.

My current question- after unbolted the bed (which was a PITA given the last 4 bolt locations), what is the best way to handle the bed? Can I just set it down on pallets or will the sheet metal sides bend? Is putting it on saw horses a better idea? Also, when I cut out the floor, what do I need to do to make sure it doesn't warp or bend on me? I will also need to replace at least the first cross member.
 
  #9  
Old 06-01-2014, 05:37 PM
cr500monster's Avatar
cr500monster
cr500monster is offline
Freshman User
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
i have the same problem with mine i just bought a donor bed that the floor is perfect now just to get it out
 
  #10  
Old 06-01-2014, 06:37 PM
vls's Avatar
vls
vls is offline
Junior User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 98
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Just finished a complete repaint of mine. Bed has a few rust holes under the floor liner in the bed. Small holes but no rust around them. After grinding away all rust, I used Duraglas to squeeze through the holes, then sanded the upper surface to match the floor contour. Coated both the under and top sides of the floor with POR 15 to seal against any more rust. Painted over that with urethane primer/surfacer and then urethane topcoat. I know this is not as good as replacing the floor but since the bed is covered by the bed liner, I figure if I can seal the rust, then coat it to keep it at bay for a few years, it should be fine. I'm not doing a frame-up resto, so getting a few more years for a couple hundred bucks ain't bad. It's a 79, so value is not that high, even if it had been totally rebuilt. I'm sure I'd sink way more into it that it's worth to restore it, so I'm just trying to keep it looking and running good. It is, after all, just a work truck.
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Dave145
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
10
01-15-2012 12:44 PM
76250_4x4
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
2
10-24-2010 08:57 PM
rchewitt50
Paint & Bodywork
3
04-12-2006 01:00 AM
ahawes
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
8
12-19-2005 08:46 PM



Quick Reply: Suggestions for bed rust repair



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:02 AM.