replaced the valve body gasket no gears now
#1
replaced the valve body gasket no gears now
I just finished replacing the Valve body gasket in my 99 ranger with the 4.0 liter v6 with the 5r55e trans. My problem now is that I have no gears i can shift it but the gears do not engage. Any suggestions on what my be wrong would be helpful.
I did install the updated bonded seperator plate and the tsb for the blow off valve with it.
I did install the updated bonded seperator plate and the tsb for the blow off valve with it.
#2
Welcome!
My first thought is that the linkage did not get set back right. Simple and easy to check by having someone under the vehicle and make sure that its getting its full range of motion at the transmission. Next. There are a bunch of check valves, etc down in there. Its also possible that the mods you did somehow didnt turn out right.
What was the reason for the replacement/update to the bonded gasket and the TSB? Were there any problems before the changes?
My first thought is that the linkage did not get set back right. Simple and easy to check by having someone under the vehicle and make sure that its getting its full range of motion at the transmission. Next. There are a bunch of check valves, etc down in there. Its also possible that the mods you did somehow didnt turn out right.
What was the reason for the replacement/update to the bonded gasket and the TSB? Were there any problems before the changes?
#3
Good advice, and I would add to check the fluid level, 'feel' the shift detents, observe if there is any change at all in engine load as you go from detent to detent.
If it is totally 'unloaded' no matter what gear you select, then either the gears aren't being selected {linkage/valve body disconnect?} or the pump is not putting out pressure. Given that the transmission engaged properly, or at least with gusto, before the valve body work.
Likeliest cause would be 'missing' the L shaped lever when putting the linkage in contact with the valve body spool. Not too hard to correct, but just another pain to catch the fluid, drop the pan, inspect & repair/connect, and PBT. I would have no problem using the fluid rather than tossing it if I were careful to filter it before replacing into the transmission.d If you cleaned the pan & bolts, etc, you should be able to catch it clean, and keep it clean. Let it sit for a while to make sure any sediment goes to the bottom, and watch as you pour it into the container you will use to put it back in the trans.
tom
If it is totally 'unloaded' no matter what gear you select, then either the gears aren't being selected {linkage/valve body disconnect?} or the pump is not putting out pressure. Given that the transmission engaged properly, or at least with gusto, before the valve body work.
Likeliest cause would be 'missing' the L shaped lever when putting the linkage in contact with the valve body spool. Not too hard to correct, but just another pain to catch the fluid, drop the pan, inspect & repair/connect, and PBT. I would have no problem using the fluid rather than tossing it if I were careful to filter it before replacing into the transmission.d If you cleaned the pan & bolts, etc, you should be able to catch it clean, and keep it clean. Let it sit for a while to make sure any sediment goes to the bottom, and watch as you pour it into the container you will use to put it back in the trans.
tom
#4
#5
Alright I feel dumb now I actually just didn't give it enough time for the fluid to filter through the valve body. I went down later that day and it shifted fine after I added a little more fluid.
Now I have another question I originally did the gasket Replacment and tsb to fix my lack of reverse and 2-3 shift flare but it didn't fix any of it.
Any suggestions on what it could be.
Now I have another question I originally did the gasket Replacment and tsb to fix my lack of reverse and 2-3 shift flare but it didn't fix any of it.
Any suggestions on what it could be.
#6
ug, yeah, thats not good. As far as Im concerned auto transmissions are voodoo. This could be solenoids failing, could be garbage in the system, etc. Someone more knowledgeable will chime in im sure. There may be codes if its solenoids, but you have to find someone who can pull tranny codes. Dont know if autozone type stores have scanners that can do it.
I had similar problems and then it died all together. Replaced the valve body and still had some problems. Did a full rebuild on transmission. Lasted another year and went out again. Have no idea what I missed. Ended up buying a used one from a local junkyard and am now 6 years into that one. Still feel like im on borrowed time...
I had similar problems and then it died all together. Replaced the valve body and still had some problems. Did a full rebuild on transmission. Lasted another year and went out again. Have no idea what I missed. Ended up buying a used one from a local junkyard and am now 6 years into that one. Still feel like im on borrowed time...
#7
There are a lot of possibilities. Shift 'flare' is caused by slippage. The selected gear range has not been engaged completely and the clutch pack or band slips. Either the clutches and steels are worn, the seals in the apply piston are hardened and leak, or the band friction material is gone or the servo piston seals are hardened.
The control aspect would be either low line pressure due to internal hemorrhage, bad pump, or dysfunctional pressure control, or sticking valve body parts, sticking solenoids, or even plugged valve body passages.
I can't tell from here, as the saying goes. If you had lots of bits in the transmission pan, or chunks, or the fluid was really stinky, you likely have burned components. Every time you have a flare, there is a lot of heat generated, which cuts the life significantly.
No reverse engagement can be a dropped strut, broken band, funky servo, or control issues. If it came about slowly, it could even be misalignment of the parts due to wear on thrust washers allowing apply pressure and volume to be limited, leading to slippage and subsequent wear.
What is the history?
tom
The control aspect would be either low line pressure due to internal hemorrhage, bad pump, or dysfunctional pressure control, or sticking valve body parts, sticking solenoids, or even plugged valve body passages.
I can't tell from here, as the saying goes. If you had lots of bits in the transmission pan, or chunks, or the fluid was really stinky, you likely have burned components. Every time you have a flare, there is a lot of heat generated, which cuts the life significantly.
No reverse engagement can be a dropped strut, broken band, funky servo, or control issues. If it came about slowly, it could even be misalignment of the parts due to wear on thrust washers allowing apply pressure and volume to be limited, leading to slippage and subsequent wear.
What is the history?
tom
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