I got hit by a drunk driver and My insurance wont cover it. The guy didnt have insurane eather. I was just wondering if anyone knew how many bolts are behind the door for the passenger side fender and if I can get to them without removing the door. Also are there any bolts hidden behind the lights or on the bottom side of the fender? Thanks for any advice.

 

Here is what happened and where I am at now. I odered my grille and corner lense to start with. Ordering my bumper etc in about 2 weeks.

 

I just removed the driver's side fender on my 2001 XLT, should be similar to yours. I didn't take all the details, here's what I remember:
You don't have to remove the doors or the hood.
Briefly, remove grille, grille guard, all plastic valances around the grille & bumper, passenger wiper & passenger side of cowl. Remove passenger turn signal and headlight. Trickiest parts of this are the many plastic fasteners holding the valances on, and the 2 plastic tabs holding the front of the grille to the grille support low down on either side of the center line.
At this point you can clearly see the 4 19-mm hex nuts holding the bumper to the brackets on the body beams. Hex nuts are heavily zinc coated & the bracket bolts will be heavily rusted. It is easier to remove the bumper from above than from below, once the grilles & valences are off.
Jack up the front end & remove the passenger tire. Support the right side of the front end at its usual height - this will be important later.
Then remove the plastic inner wheel well liner -- it is attached by metal screws along the arch of the fender and fastened elsewhere with plastic fasteners for the most part.
There are 2 painted 8mm hex head bolts visible inside the recess where the turn signal used to be, remove these & the front of the fender is loose.
There are about 6 screws along the top of the fender that fasten it to the inner metal fender, remove these.
If there are any screws or bolts visible from the open cowl area that seem to hold the outer fender on, remove them. You may have to also remove some or all of the antenna here.
There is a plastic rock guard at the back end of the wheel well at the very bottom of the fender. There is a horizontal screw, back this out about an inch - I don't know if this holds the fender in or not, just didn't want it in the way. No need to remove the rock guard.
At this point you should be able to move the front of the fender side to side a few inches, hinged by the remaining fasteners at the very bottom & just in front of the door hinge area.
There are 2 8-mm hex head bolts, vertically oriented, that hold the bottom of the fender in place along the bottom edge of the rock guard. I wound up shearing both of them off when I attempted to remove them. They were rusted in place. If this happens to you, there will be some drilling needed to replace them on reassembly.
At the moment I don't recall if there was one or more fasteners to be removed from the back of the fender with the door partly open. Just open the door a bit & look at the area with a bright light. Remove what you can see and access easily. There will be 2 bolts you can probably see part of but cannot access from the door hinge area. These must be accessed from inside the wheel well.
Now there are only 2 8-mm hex head bolts holding the fender in place, behind 2 metal tabs at the rear of the fender that you can see with the door partly open. They won't be accessible from the door opening, though. Close the door.
Position yourself with your 8-mm hex head ratchet wrench, inside the wheel well facing the back of the F150. I sat on a little stool. Support the arch of the fender on your left shoulder. There is plenty of space inside the wheel well for an average size guy if the tire and wheel well liner are out. If you find yourself facing a tall narrow strip of black foam plastic insulation, about 4" wide, 30 inches high, 3/4" thick, at the rear of the wheel well, gently pull it out & remove it to full expose the last 2 fasteners. Swing the fender outward enough so that you can see and wrench on the 2 remaining hex head bolts holding metal tabs to the inside fender metal. See below for the approach to the driver's side fender:

Removing these last 2 bolts will result in the fender dropping away from the truck, and your shoulder suddenly carrying the weight of the fender. It weighs very little. If you don't provide continuous support to the fender when you remove the last 2 bolts, it might just fall out & get scratched or dented.

 

If your radiator support looks as bad as mine, replace or repair it while it is easy to get at!