F150 automatic transmission to manual
#1
F150 automatic transmission to manual
Hello I am new to this and I have some questions
I have a 93 f150 5.8 4x4 crew cab short bed whit an automatic transmission that
I want to swap for a manual transmission
those any one out here knows what doi need
And what to do, i am .gonna be hauling alot
If anyone knows and can help me out
Thanks
I have a 93 f150 5.8 4x4 crew cab short bed whit an automatic transmission that
I want to swap for a manual transmission
those any one out here knows what doi need
And what to do, i am .gonna be hauling alot
If anyone knows and can help me out
Thanks
#2
From FSB forum:
Parts list (donor truck or buy new will be denoted for what I believe to be your best bet):
- Transmission (donor truck or rebuilt)
- Shifter and bolts, don’t forget the bolts, they’re metric! (donor truck)
- Transmission tunnel and shifter boot (donor truck)
- Pedal assembly, these are different based on body style, IE 87-91, 92-96. Also be sure to get the wiring for the clutch pedal if you’re wanting to wire it into the ignition so you can’t start with the pedal out. You’re existing brake light switch and cruise control vacuum dump will swap over so no need to pull those (donor truck)
- Steering column, again these are different based on body style, get the key If you can, it makes removing the ignition switch (key tumbler) easier (donor truck)
- Steel plate that goes between the engine and transmission, I think these are different from auto to manual as I had trouble with mine but I’ll get into that later (donor truck)
- Flywheel, 164 tooth for 351 (juts buy new and don’t mess with it). Note that 157 tooth is a common flywheel and an option at most part stores, I’m not sure what applications it’s for but my 351 and ZF combo definitely needed the 164.
- Clutch, pressure plate, alignment tool, usually all come as a kit (new, duh!). Up to you if you go factory, heavy duty or high end like a centerforce or something. I opted for a “HD” one step up from stock. Keep in mind that they high end stuff will result in a STIFF pedal.
- Pilot bearing (mine came with the clutch kit) but they can be purchased separately
- Master cylinder, hydraulic hose and slave cylinder. Usually the slave cylinder comes with the throw-out bearing, if it doesn’t, buy one that does, it’s just easier (again just buy new)
- Starter, the manual is different than the auto!
- Crossmember? So I’m not totally sure but I think the ZF is different than the E4OD, mine was already hacked up from my SAS so I ended up building something, maybe someone can chime in on the bolt-on factory options. All the holes are drilled in the frame so you should be able to bolt it up once you have the right crossmember.
- If you’re re-using your BW t-case you’ll need a shorter linkage as the ZF is about 2” shorter than the E4OD, you could pretty easily cut and weld the E4OD one or just grab the right piece off your donor truck.
You will need a new crossmember. One from a truck with an M5OD will work. You will also need new driveshafts. Read this for an idea of whats involved:
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=216256
Parts list (donor truck or buy new will be denoted for what I believe to be your best bet):
- Transmission (donor truck or rebuilt)
- Shifter and bolts, don’t forget the bolts, they’re metric! (donor truck)
- Transmission tunnel and shifter boot (donor truck)
- Pedal assembly, these are different based on body style, IE 87-91, 92-96. Also be sure to get the wiring for the clutch pedal if you’re wanting to wire it into the ignition so you can’t start with the pedal out. You’re existing brake light switch and cruise control vacuum dump will swap over so no need to pull those (donor truck)
- Steering column, again these are different based on body style, get the key If you can, it makes removing the ignition switch (key tumbler) easier (donor truck)
- Steel plate that goes between the engine and transmission, I think these are different from auto to manual as I had trouble with mine but I’ll get into that later (donor truck)
- Flywheel, 164 tooth for 351 (juts buy new and don’t mess with it). Note that 157 tooth is a common flywheel and an option at most part stores, I’m not sure what applications it’s for but my 351 and ZF combo definitely needed the 164.
- Clutch, pressure plate, alignment tool, usually all come as a kit (new, duh!). Up to you if you go factory, heavy duty or high end like a centerforce or something. I opted for a “HD” one step up from stock. Keep in mind that they high end stuff will result in a STIFF pedal.
- Pilot bearing (mine came with the clutch kit) but they can be purchased separately
- Master cylinder, hydraulic hose and slave cylinder. Usually the slave cylinder comes with the throw-out bearing, if it doesn’t, buy one that does, it’s just easier (again just buy new)
- Starter, the manual is different than the auto!
- Crossmember? So I’m not totally sure but I think the ZF is different than the E4OD, mine was already hacked up from my SAS so I ended up building something, maybe someone can chime in on the bolt-on factory options. All the holes are drilled in the frame so you should be able to bolt it up once you have the right crossmember.
- If you’re re-using your BW t-case you’ll need a shorter linkage as the ZF is about 2” shorter than the E4OD, you could pretty easily cut and weld the E4OD one or just grab the right piece off your donor truck.
You will need a new crossmember. One from a truck with an M5OD will work. You will also need new driveshafts. Read this for an idea of whats involved:
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=216256
#7
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