1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series TrucksDiscuss the Dentsides Ford Truck
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So the 460 in my 75 F250 started ticking badly. Traced it to a leaky exhaust manifold. Took the exhaust manifold off and broke 2 bolts in the process. First bolt thats about 1/2" out from the head and second that sheared of just below flush.
In trying to take out the second bolt, I broke the easy-out.
No drill bit I have will make a mark.
Anybody been in the same situation and removed the easy-out/bolt?
I'm trying to avoid having to remove the head and take it to a machinist.
From doing a little research, a dremel with a small grinding bit sometimes works, and a carbide drill bit sometimes works.
I tried to use a cut-off wheel to make a notch, but I was just wrecking the head surface in the process.
I ended up just grinding out easy-out with a dremel.
I'm still stuck with the 2 broken bolts stuck in the head though. Since I'm not an expert welder, I'm planning on drilling out the bolts and re-tapping or going up a size. I was thinking of making a jig to bolt onto the head to make sure the drill goes in dead center.
Does anyone know the design bolt spacing/exhaust port spacing on those heads (I believe C9VE)? I'm not sure I trust reading measurements off a ruler...
Even though says not for drilling, its work great for me. I just kept at it and finally got the broke bolt piece removed and used a high $$ set of drill bits from Fastenall and drilled around the broke easy out, it did take quite a while.
Using a long drill bit extension might let you get in there without removing the steering box.
If you get it out of there and are re-taping I welded the tap in a old 3/8 dv socket that will let you get some torque on it. Also look into using a helicoil insert if you can't get it tapped.
You said you're not an expert welder - which says to me you have welding experience, no? You don't have to be an "expert", just be sure you've got a good weld between the new bolt and the sheared ones. (No offence to the experts out there...). I'm sure you know that the weld wire won't stick to the cast so you can load it up.
If you do weld a bolt onto the sheared ones and still can't get them out, why not cut the heads off and use them as studs?
But, if you've decided to go the routes suggested above (all good ones), please disregard this post.
Yep using an easy-out was a bad idea on my part. But I was able to get it out with the dremel + diamond grinder without too much fustration.
The steering box is out at the moment as I had to rebuild that anyway - it was leaking out of the input shaft oil seal. I also cut/bent a section of the inner fender out of the way to allow easier access. Its still a bitch though.
Thanks for the tip about welding a socket to the tap - that's a good idea. I guess then the key is to watch how much torque I'm applying because the last thing I would want is a busted tap in the head!
I do have welding experience - but I don't have access to a welder at the moment anyhow
I'm going to go the jig+drill route. I'll let you know how it goes
I broke off a tap in a motorhome with a 477 pusher. What I improvised was a large phillips screwdriver that I artfully ground to have 4 prongs and I was able to get the broken piece out.
I can almost guarantee if you try to drill it, you'll end up with a mess, the drill will walk off the hard metal that it can't drill anyway and then damage the hole more. I have got in there with a little caping chisel and backed out the broken part or even broke it up into small pieces I could pick out.
Hindsight here but those left hand twist in easyouts are the last thing I'll use and so they never get used because anything else works better anyway. I ALWAYS start with a left hand drill bit and more often than not it will bring the broken bolt out. If an easy out is required, I use the square tap in style, they will twist before the ever break. I probably have some of those brittle twist in ones somewhere but it's been so long since I used them, I don't even know where they are anymore.
I have successfully and unsuccessfully used easy outs. I have gone to the tap in kind instead of the cork screw variety, but a left hand drill will usually do the trick.
I had the problem on my 96. The bolt just broke off one day flush with the outer surface of the manifold, about 2" from the cylinder head, just broke, never been touched from ford. I thought I will just remove the other bolts with my impact, and they all came out, but there was no room to get the manifold off the broken bolt, manifold hit the frame, I had to jack the engine up high enough to get the manifold past the frame so that is why you do not leave it there and use it for a stud.
I thought "this will be easy, I am lucky today." I put a stud extractor on the case hardened grade 8 bolt and went to turning, and it snapped off right flush at the head. I drilled it and easy outed it, broke a drill bit, drilled some more, got to the threads on one side, broke a bit, then went and baught abrasives and carbide cutters for my die grinder.
I burned up 2 abrasives then went to the carbide, cut and cut some more, metal was flying.
I swore and I sweat!! Finally the shard that was left in there I could turn with pliers, it would not extract though, so I got my left hand bits back out and about 15 seconds later it was out. Now it sets in the shop on the shelf under the "wall of war"
Brute force and ignorance sometimes is the only way.
Due to the recent economic down turn, rising energy costs and mandatory labor cuts, the light at the end of the tunnel has temporarily been shut off, sorry for the inconvenience.
A good welder ( grey haired and long in the tooth ) Can make quick work of this . I have a friend that is an artist with a stick welder . I have seen him do some crazy stuff ! He claims Arc is the only way to remove these . I have tried my mig with no luck , He stepped in ! I can't drill straight , so I gave up a long time ago !
78 F100 ,Daily driver . Life will test you . Never give up ....
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