Rear back glass install on 1978 F250
#1
Rear back glass install on 1978 F250
I got a new back glass and rubber seal from LMC and I have attepmted to install the rear back glass but have failed. I cannot seem to keep the rubber seal around the glass to even try and install it to the body. it keeps coming off. Is there any trick to this I am unaware of or is this how it is supposed to be for install?
The problem I am having is trying to keep the seal around the glass.
If not does anyone know of a good mobile glass installer near Nashville so I can get this done?
Thanks
The problem I am having is trying to keep the seal around the glass.
If not does anyone know of a good mobile glass installer near Nashville so I can get this done?
Thanks
#2
#3
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Mine stayed on the glass OK, but getting it in the cab was a new story. I did have an issue with trying to put the wrong grooves in the wrong places, like the glass groove was headed to the cab, and the cab groove was in the glass or something, I watched a youtube video, and lone and behold the window was in the cab 10 minutes later.
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Thanks guys for the advice. I should check youtube as well to see if anything will help. Jim, I will try the tape to se if that helps.Could it be the seals are to big?
Highoctane, you had the issue with the seals being stiff, did you notice the installers fighting to get the seal around the new glass?
Highoctane, you had the issue with the seals being stiff, did you notice the installers fighting to get the seal around the new glass?
#7
Yes they had a really hard time getting it on the glass. When they tried putting it in the truck, they broke the first windshield. The one problem was the lip wouldn't fold around on the inside, they fought for a long time. Now that I think about it, I ended up pulling a OEM one out of another truck for the back one. It was just to tuff.
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#9
That's the problem with those aftermarket seals, some work really well, others don't. I go OEM all the way for windshield and rear glass through Dennis Carpenter. A little more money, but worth it in the long run. But, I like what HIOsilver stated with gluing and then waiting for cure to keep the seal on. Plus, the glue would give a little more seal.
#10
Are you doing this alone? It goes easier with 2 people. Full back window? Buy some window suction cups at Harbor Freight. This helps take the fatigue from your hands. When I installed my LMC seal, I used lots of soapy water around the seal. I also used plastic coated cable to pull the glass in. The seal did try to separate from the glass, but sucked back in when the seal properly sealed. Total time was 45 minutes.
#11
I will have help, my problem was trying to get the seal around the new glass. I think I made it more difficult than it should have been.
The original sliding window was blown out so the guy I bought it from added the new window, seal, and trim from LMC so it is what I have to work with. I like the idea of glue on the window however, I think I will try masking tape first. I got some inspiration from a youtube video as well as some fellow FTE's and will try to install it tomorrow.
I will most likely look at D Carpenter for the door gaskets if not Steele Rubber (both seem to have the best weatherstripping out there)
The original sliding window was blown out so the guy I bought it from added the new window, seal, and trim from LMC so it is what I have to work with. I like the idea of glue on the window however, I think I will try masking tape first. I got some inspiration from a youtube video as well as some fellow FTE's and will try to install it tomorrow.
I will most likely look at D Carpenter for the door gaskets if not Steele Rubber (both seem to have the best weatherstripping out there)
#13
We put the rear glass in my Crew Cab Friday. I had DC rubber, but the rear gasket was way too big for the glass. What we did was find the joint in the seal and put it about the middle of the bottom of the glass. Then we worked it on around the bottom and top corners. That gave us a feel for how much too long the rubber was. We then pulled some slack back to the bottom and taped it all the way across the glass. We then did the same up the sides, then across the top.
That got the gasket on the glass. Then we sprayed the gap in the gasket really well with soapy water, put some string in the gap all around, and started the install.We had a problem getting the outside bottom to roll all the way out. I used a plastic trim removal tool to work the gasket into place there and the glass dropped about 1/4 inch. That allowed us to get the rest of the gasket pulled inside. Then it was a simple matter of working the trim tool and 'bumping' the edge of the glass to finish seating it. Took about 30 minutes to work it into the cab, but it looks great now.
That got the gasket on the glass. Then we sprayed the gap in the gasket really well with soapy water, put some string in the gap all around, and started the install.We had a problem getting the outside bottom to roll all the way out. I used a plastic trim removal tool to work the gasket into place there and the glass dropped about 1/4 inch. That allowed us to get the rest of the gasket pulled inside. Then it was a simple matter of working the trim tool and 'bumping' the edge of the glass to finish seating it. Took about 30 minutes to work it into the cab, but it looks great now.
Last edited by VocaTexas; 01-20-2013 at 10:12 PM. Reason: Add info
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