It is perfectly reasonable to think that someone else could have put oil in the cylinders just as I did, so good thinking (fifty-two_f1).

We are having freezing temperatures starting tonight. I will do a coolant/antifreeze mix and fill up the system. I would like to know if the radiator has leaks along with any other possible issues while determining what is happening with the block.

With the head removed, what would I be able to see by eye that would pinpoint bad rings vs cracked block? Or how will a compression test reveal one or the other? Feel like I am going to get the same result either way from a compression test!

 

http://www.aa1car.com/library/compression.htm

 

Great info to help determine the comperssion between rings vs valves, or head gasket, but how bout a cracked block? Or does that give a similar result as having a bad valve?

 

Depends upon where and how bad the cracking. Either way, she's getting an internal inspection if she's mine. Good luck with it, keep us posted.

 

That much oil is more likely from a leak on the oil filter plumbing. A cylinder pushing that much oil wouldn't be firing at all, and would be close to hydraulic lockup.

The filter housing is about where you describe the puddle.

 

Not at all from the filter or housing. 100% Leaking/ dripping from the exhaust pipe.

 

Then it is probably stuck oil rings. There isn't much oil in the lifter valley and it's uphill to the intake/exhaust passages. SeaFoam is very good at loosening stuck rings. A couple teaspoons in each cylinder for a day or two, crank it over with the plugs out to clear any excess, then fire it up. A couple of thermal cycles to full operating temperature will tell you if it has helped. You can use a weak mix of antifreeze for cost reasons but it's better to have coolant in the block when running it up to temp. Flushing the block is always good.

You didn't say what oil you're using but 15w40 diesel oil has lots of detergent, will help free things up.

 

If you are looking for cracks, more times than not they will be from the exhaust valve down to the cylinder wall in either cylinder # 2,3,6 or 7, Take a razor and scrape the crap off and look to see if there are any cracks. Something that I did to a flathead that most people will not like, (but i was good and POed at the time) I fired a flathead up, let it get warm, and dumped a quart of transmission fluid in the carb, wound it up and let her smoke. No more ring problems, took a while to get the crap out of the exhaust system, but it finally burnt out.

 

I would put water/ AF in it and let it run for awhile. May just need a good running at temperature. As long as it did not sound like the engine was falling apart when you ran it before....

Paul

 

Great thanks for the confidence to just run it. I feel confident that, with everyones input, I do still have a good motor. I will be checking the raidator hoses for loose debris and fillingI up the system with

 

....... filling up the system with water/ AF. Think I will back it out of the garage this time before letting it blow any more oil on the garage wall & floor!!

Hope to have some good news for everyone soon.

 

Okay everyone..... Removed the spark plugs from the drivers side (the side that was blowing oil) and noticed 2 that looked a bit oily. I added a couple squirts of Mystery Oil and turned the motor over a couple times to get everything well coated. Pulled each of the radiator hoses, cleaned the rusted & broken wires from within & reinstalled. Attached a garden hose as a heater coil bypass then fully topped off the system with a good 50/50 mix. Cleaned & reinstalled the 2 oily spark plugs.

Pros.
Stared right up like a new engine!!
Engine appears to be running without all of the oil blow-by now, or significantly less.
Allowed it to reach something close to full running temp.

Cons.
The radiator has multiple leaks.
Generator bearings are bad and starting to make a bit more noise than they should.
EVERYTHING is covered in a good 50/50 mix from all the radiator leaks & help from the fan.
Started to run lousy after warming up with some backfiring through the carb.

Next Step
Move it outside to clean engine & garage floor.
Find & install a new radiator.
Replace the generator.

 

If your generator work then just replace the front bearing, rear busing, and brushes in it. The hardest part is getting the key out of the front of the armature so you can replace the front bearing. Did you oil the rear bushing?

 

I'd re-check plugs for fouling because it started to run poorly.

 

Just a suggestion. Try adding a quart of Rislone Engine treatment into the oil.
RiSlone Concentrated Engine Treatment | Canadian Tire
Cleans the rings and internals well. At least I found it did in my motor. Another product I use is Restore Engine restorer 8 cyl formula

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