'59 223. Ran when turned off. Next time I went to drive it the engine would start, then die when I released the key from the start position.

I narrowed it down to not getting 12V to the coil. Pulled the key assy. I'm getting 12V to two terminals in the on position. Checked wiring leading to the coil. All looks fine, but no power. Without a wiring diagram I'm having trouble tracing. Any ideas on what the trouble may be?

 

Try jumping the ballast resistor.

 

If it starts, and then dies when you let go of the key, the switch is bad. It starts cause its getting the full 12 volts from the selonid, when you turn loose of the key, the switch isn't supplying juice to keep it running.

 

Not necessarily true. When the key returns to the on position the power goes through the resister before the coil. So it could be either or anything between.

 

My money is on the resistor.
This happened to me on Teddy in 1973 I was going to my first night on a new job and he would start then die when I let off the key I didn't have time to mess with it, so I ended up riding my horse to work that first night. Needles to say I was the only one that showed up on horse back and it was a topic of conversation that stayed with me while on that job.

 

Hi Ho Silver

 

It's already been covered that it's either switch or resistor. The resistor is the easiest to jump, so try that first. Then, before you go ordering a new switch, get the DVOM out and check resistance thru the whole circuit. I had a '65 do this and it was a short to power at the base of the steering column Too long ago to remember the gory details.

 

That's a great story and some serious work ethic! I've been in a similar situation back when I was a kid. Don't want to hijack though

 

Wanted to follow up on this. It was the ballast resistor that failed. Plugged a new one in and it worked. Jim was correct. When starting, the switch sends 12V directly to the coil. After the engine starts and the key returns to the on position, power to the coil goes through the ballast resistor. The decrease in voltage is supposed to make the points last longer.

 

I'm glad you got it running . Also without the ballast resister the coil will over heat and burn out fairly quick.

 

Spitfire, glad you got it figured out. I also went thought the puzzlement of a bad ballast resistor, ready to rip out my entire ignition system. Then another member told me to save my money and replace the inexpensive resistor first, before replacing the relatively more expensive coil and ignition switch, etc.. That proved to be the problem.

I have since upgraded by getting rid of the points. First, I used a Pertronix Igniter, one model of which has you bypass the ballast resistor. But finally, I replaced the stock distributor entirely with an MSD electronic one, and am happy with no maintaining of the points, better acceleration, no ballast resistor, and much easier starting.

 

With all the options out there it really makes no sense to keep running points. I elected to go with the Duraspark conversion with a GM 4 pin module partly cuz it looks cool. But a maintenance free system is good enough excuse to go electronic.

 

I can't totally agree, all my Fords that I have had since 1966 have run points and I've never had a failure. I've known at least a dozen people and there are plenty more that have had the electronics fail leaving them on the side of the road....

 

Any ignition system can fail, don't care what's sending sparks to the plugs. And last I checked, points aren't like the good old days when 3 bucks got a tune up kit which included points, condenser and rotor.
If you wish to use points in your daily driver and don't mind changing points about once a year, whatever works best for you.

 

I guess I don't make any sense either!