I know that this is not the forum for this, as it is a Chevy, but I am hoping that there are some sharp mechanics on here.

ON my '90 3/4 ton 4x4 Suburban w/a 4 spd. It has 190K on it. Driving it was like driving on ice...you give it gas, and the motor would speed up and you wouldn't. After a bit and it would grab and you'd start speeding up.

I was also using clutch fluid. The last day that I went to drive it, there was no pedal at all (that was a first, but it was about 15 out...C-O-L-D, and it had sat for about 2 wks). After driving it it started to pump up and we bled it and it came back.

So, a friend put in an Autozone clutch kit and a Napa slave cylinder (It was a little oily and the MC did not appear to be leaking.

Then, he could not get it to bleed, and we also put a Napa Master Cylinder on it.

I have the old clutch and it was toast, kaput, worn-out.

Issue #1, when we were bleeding it, it had a click in the pedal, every time you pushed it. I drove it home and now it rarely clicks. Sometimes it clicks in the first inch or so of depression (I think) and then sometimes it does it on the first 2", from the floor, while releasing the clutch.

Issue #2, when I drove it home, the clutch starts to grab about 1/2-1" from the floor...and at times it doesn't really release at all. When cold, when you try to put it in low (no syncrows), you can feel the gears turning, w/the clutch pedal down. Then, WHEN HOT, it seems to "pump-up" as you drive it and finally giving you about 1" of travel before it starts to engage and the clutch will actually fulling disengage.

Then, if you let it up about 2 more inches, and it seems like it is fully engaged...and if you floor it, it slips like crazy. (this is lower than it used to engage, but, at this point on the old clutch it would have been fully engaged, based on the pedal being 2" above where it starts to engage)....the pedal then comes up another 2", or so and is full engaged.

Issue #3...I thought the above was related to it having air in the system and it was the only vehicle available and the wife had to go to town. It was a balmy 15 degrees out. So, we bleed the MC...no air. Then, The slave cylinder (a pleasant experience as I got to roll in the snow, for about 5 minutes). No air there either. But, when I'm done, the clutch won't even disengage and it won't even start in gear (did I mention 15 degrees). So, we start it, let it warm up for a minute or two and then start it in low gear. We go by and get my daughters car at work. By the time I get to town....it is acting as described as in Issue #2 above. I then drove all over town w/it acting that way. So, it changes when hot and cold.

Issue #4, when bleeding it...and after opening the bleed valve, the clutch lever moves, and releases (just like it should. Then, I close the valve, the wife releases the clutch pedal and the lever, on the trans, releases even more (a 1/4-1/2" or so). When you open the bleed and the lever releases, you can push it back the same amount w/your hand.

Also, anybody know how far should the lever move when the clutch is stepped on?

 

Well you replaced everything (also the throwout bearing) so either a part is wrong, the line from slave to master is bad or the firewall is rotten where the clutch reservoir is and bowing under pedal pressure. These are all wild guesses as I am far from an expert. Then maybe it's just that it's a Chevy . No matter, it is a stick I don't care what brand if it's a stick it is cool. there is a Chevy truck forum (I was on it once because of Chevy motorhome) and you are likely to get more response there. Not trying to chase you away or nothing, but it may be the reality of it. Better yet, try the bobistheoilguy forum. there is a mechanicl maintenance and I think a tranny forum too, and it gets tons of traffic--you will get responses.