I pulled a suspected bad injector and had it tested (good), re-ringed it and it's neighbor and switched the two. Banged everything back together and now it wont start. I've read through some similar threads here and here's what I've checked:

I have two BRAND new batteries, plenty of voltage and power
fuel pump is kicking on with the key on, and sounds like it's under load after a second or two of pumping
HPOP reservoir oil level is up to the bottom of the plug threads
I pulled the rear oil galley plug in the head and cranked it, oil flowed out pretty well.
Unplugged the ICP and tried to start it - nothing. The ICP did have oil on it though.
No smoke comes out of the tailpipe at all while cranking.
Wait to start light comes on

The truck was a decent starter before this work. I took it apart to change glow plugs and address a cold stumble that it has. The old batteries started it well, but didn't crank nearly as strong as the new set. The injector swap was done on the driver's side, and I changed the VC gasket and injector harness as well. All I touched on the passenger side was the glow plugs, so I can't imagine I won't at least get a jump from that side. Before the injector work, I pulled the oil rail plugs in the head, and afterwards I pulled the glow plugs from the affected cylinders and turned the engine over a few times by hand.

I've tried cranking for 20 seconds at a time, 6 or 7 times, without so much as a hiccup.

I'm certain there's no fuel being injected, but what else should I be checking in to? I'm pretty new to 7.3's, so please be as descriptive as possible.

Thanks,
Matt

 

Charge your batteries back up, make sure the IPR connector is plugged in and tin nut is tight, fuel bowl is full and try again. You are almost there... It should fire off any moment now.

 

First thing I'm thinking is that there's an electrical connector inside the engine compartment that is not connected or damaged. Did you connect the 42 pin connector back tight? Any check engine light? You did reconnect the electrical connectors back onto the injectors and glow plugs right? Just asking because I've done sillier things when I'm working on my truck.

I'm assuming since you said you are new to the 7.3 that you don't have a scanner like AE to check the diagnostic trouble codes? The ability to do that makes diagnosing this a heck of a lot easier.

Drake

 

An easy way to see if injectors are getting fuel is open the fuel drain valve on the back of the fuel bowl . Not totally fool roof but at least you know if you are getting fuel there. If that checks out then you more than likely have a connection problem at the valve covers or the large 42 pin connector. Just swapping two injectors shouldn't take that long to fire off.

 

I had a charger on the batteries the whole time, so they didn't take a beating. Where is the IPR, is that the plug on top of the HPOP?


Yes the 42 pin connector is plugged in good and tight. No check engine light (though I did throw my handheld scanner on and nothing came up anyway). And I popped off the VC to make sure everything was connected well.

I'm not familiar with the AE scanner though, any more info on that?

JT I cracked the drain on the bowl and got a good bit of fuel out. I'm assuming that's what you we suggesting.


Thanks for the fast responses.

 

The IPR is on the back of the HPOP, down in the center of the engine valley, a little towards the driver's side. Sometimes the nut comes loose and causes problems. Sometimes the wire harness at the connector is faulty and doesn't show symptoms until someone messes with the neighboring systems.

AE is scanning software that can help trouble shoot many potential issues. You can see things like system voltage, Injector control pressure, IPR duty cycle, engine rpm, injector pulse width etc. These are the primary things that can influence the success of the starting procedure. It is a tool that becomes useful once you understand how the engine management system works.

 

No luck today, although I forgot to take a closer look at the IPR.

I read in another thread that if the tach isn't moving at all while cranking, to change the cmp. I did that (had a spare on hand), and no change. BTW, battery voltage was always over 10.5v while cranking.

As for filling the HPOP, how long does it take? I was putting oil in at a pretty slow pace, but even when it got full it would still seep down a bit. What's that about?

I also ran a KOEO test through my scanner. It came up with a 0603 code and a 1280. One of them was ICP related, the other had something to do with PCM memory. I thought they may lead to something.

Any other thoughts are appreciated...

 

I'm still try'n to find the significance of this statement. My factory and a/m gauge, doesnt move while cranking. I got nothing to offer bud, but good luck and hope you get ur fired up

 

The P1280 code is an ICP Circuit Out of Range Low code. You should check your ICP sensor by pulling the connector from the sensor. If you see any oil in the top of the sensor connector then it's bad and needs to be replaced. Also check for the ICP wires for any breaks or even check the continuity if you are capable of doing so. The wires next to the connector are known to become damaged and need replacement sometimes. I think Clay at RiffRaff has a replacement connector pigtail available if needed.

The P0603 is the Internal control module KAM error code. This just means the battery was disconnected at some point.

Drake

 

The hpop Res will never be full to the very top. It needs to be within a half inch or so I think.

 

I'm on to something now. I went to check the IPR nut, and it wasn't loose... it was laying in the engine valley with the collar. I took the ipr off, cleaned everything up and re-installed. Are there any o-rings that should be used here?

I decided to pull the harness up and take a good look at the IPR plug while I was there. Sure enough, one of the wires had been pulled out of the plug. It looks like it was pushed in and siliconed for a previous repair, so I must have pulled it out while working on the truck. At least that explains why it started before the work and not after.

I'm gonna try to track down a new pig tail for the IPR, and we'll take it from there.

Thanks for the help so far.

 

If you have the IPR out, get the IPR rebuild or O-Ring kit. Both Clay and Bob have them. Riff Raff Diesel and DieselOrings.com. That way you won't have to worry about it again for a while.

 

You can make a pigtail out of the old UVCH. The injector connector is the same as the IPR solenoid connector. I've done this before.

 

You mentioned the IPR plug, and certainly appears there's trouble there, but Drake was referring to the ICP plug as well. It's on the front inside face of the DS head. Pull that electrical connector off and if the plug is wet with oil then that sensor is going bad and can cause startup and fuel delivery problems since these injectors rely on high pressure oil to actuate.

 

Awesome. I just changed the harness out while I was changing injectors, so I have spares on hand.

I'll look into that. Where do the o-rings go in the assembly?



Aside from the bad plug (which I must have pulled loose while working), the IPR was loose on it's stud. Could the truck still run like that?

Matt