Hello! My name is Max, located in Cen-Cal up in the mountains. My shop is J&B Motorsports, but I am actually building this in my garage at home. NOT my truck, it is actually my girlfriends truck, but i thought i'd share. When researching the 302 to 351W swap, I came across alot of unanswered questions, so hopefully I may be of use.

What we started with:
1995 F150, 4x4, 302ci w/ 124,653 Miles.

What happened in order to warrant a swap?:
Well, I fixed the heater core in the truck, started it up and heard a faint tick/knock. Checked oil and it was like 4 quarts low. (SMH). Put oil in it, started it up and it kicked a rod! HAHAHA. My luck, right? F it. Lets put a bigger motor in.

Now this is where we are...
I found a used 351W in a city not too far from my house, complete engine intake to pan, with wiring harness and ECU for $200. It had 175K on it.

Now, I never trust used engines, because you never know what you're buying or if it was taken care of. So, I decided to tear it down. It needed bearings, fairly bad, and the engine was pretty ****ty looking (really greasy ect). So - lets do it the right way...plus some.

What I did:
5-Angle valve job
Re-hone cylinders (no shadows or glazing so boring was not required)
Hot-Tank
Re-surface
Micropolish crank
Clevite Standard mains
clevite Standard rods
Lunati 268 VooDoo cam (#1001) 262/268 adv dur., .472/.496" Gross lift
Lunati dual valve springs (#73084LUN)
Lunati lifters (#71900PR)
Lunati Timing set (#93058)
Lunati retainers (#75743LUN)
MSD Street-fire coil
MSD Street-fire wires/black
MSD Street-fire Cap/Rotor (had a new distributor as it is)
ARP Head bolts
ARP Main bolts
ARP Intake manifold bolts
Melling Hi-flow (+25%) oil pump
Melling Harded oil pump shaft
Millodon Water pump
TB spacer (came on motor *shrugg*)
Full gasket kit (obviosly)
OBXR Long Tubes
Borla mufflers

**********************Pics************************ **





After hone

Micropolished crank


New Clevite bearings





I put inspection marks on everything, and write the torque and a check mark when I double check them. 45lbs rods, 100lbs mains (w/moly)


Ring gap. .022 top and .026 bottoms Hastings rings








checking the preload on the springs. .038". Lunati says .030-.060" is ok






OK. THIS I HAVE AN ISSUE WITH!!!!!!!

This is where I am at as of last night


Hopefully I will put the motor in tonight. I noticed the EGR setup is different though.

Write more later...

 

Awesome. I'm concerned about the cam. I didn't look up the specs, is it an efi cam, or just something you picked out because you liked it.
Did you port the heads any before the valve job.

Great start.
Make sure you use the wiring you removed from the truck
The 351 uses a different flexplate (even though the 302 one bolts up)
Replace torque converter seal even though it wasn't bad. Maybe upgrade the converter also.

 

Nice looking build. Is the truck you're putting this in mass air? If so this 5.8 will run pretty well after the computer has had a chance to dial things in, if not then it's not gonna run well at all. Also... DO NOT use any wiring that came with the donor motor there is no guarantee the block connectors are the same or are pinned the same as what's on your truck, use only the wiring that originally came on the 5.0 in your truck.

 

Conanski,

Yes, it is a Mass-Air truck. And I got the 28oz flywheel with the motor/ecu/engine harness/dash harness/fuse box harness ect.

I have the ECU/Harness out of the 5.8L donor truck and the harness. I have always used a new harness/computer with other swaps (this is my first F150, but have done lots of Cobras, Firebirds and even a LS1 Lexus LS400). I [tired to] used the 5.8L harness and no start, Im calling it a night, and I will swap the harness over tomorrow. I tried both ECUs and everything. BOO. I mean, not even a sputter.

I noticed that the ENTIRE EGR setup is different on the 5.8 vs the 5.0L, and all of those BS hardline vaccumm ****s. Worst idea Ford ever did, super brittle.

I did, however; notice there is a knock sensor (assuming) in the back of the 302 motor that the 351 does not have/support. Whats the deal with that?

As far as the Carb/EFi cam difference, that is a HUGE argument in itself. There really is no difference, just the *ideal* lobe separation for a carb'd motor is around 104-109*, and efi is usually around 112-116*. This cam spec is at 112*. Again, that is a whole nother' world.

 

Also, I am using the Alternator/tensioner/idler setup off of the 302, and the Waterpump/AC/PS [crank obviously] off the 351w. I tried the 302 belt (99") and it was literally like 2" too short, and will go back for a Gates 101.5" tomorrow. Do you guys have any input on this?

Long-tubes were a FUN install. Not. haha. Oh, and I noticed the motor mounts are different (I bought a set of 351 mounts, and the studs are forward by about 1/2" than the 302's.

Here are some pics for fun. My girlfriend had a good time.



^-----needs to be pressure washed SOO BAD @__@

Tiiiight fit. Seriously, if it was any tighter...id marry it.

 

This is cool! I can't wait to do something very similar to mine!

 

That's not surprising, it's unlikely the truck you got the 5.8 from was MAF so those harness portions and the computer are not at our all compatable with your truck.

You keep calling it the EGR system but I bet what you're really talking about is the air injection system connected to the air pump. Yes it is different but are you keeping the stock cats? Probably not right so unless you need that system to pass visual emissions tests the whole works of it can be deleted.

Ignore it, just leave the connector hanging with nothing attached.

It's more than just LSA... duration affect compatability as well, SD needs a strong and steady vacuum signal so anything more than about 210deg at 0.050" lift begins to produce vacuum issues. That won't be an issue with your swap if you use the 5.0 MAF computer.

 

Very interesting. I appreciate the fast and precise answer. Getting ready to swap that harness over now.

I refer to all smog stuff in CA as EGR lol. I know it has air injection, and she needs it for visual inspection. If it was my truck id take it alllllll off lol

 

FYI... You can put the 5.0 version of the air injection system on the 5.8 just need a 5.8 specific crossover tube to go across the back of the heads and then use all the plumbing and solenoids the truck originally came with.

 

Yea, all the 5.8 stuff was falling apart, the only thing i did use was the cross over.

Got it started, but the big middle finger when it comes to idling.

I have to WOT for it too start then back it half off and itll start.

Plenty of oil pressure and no issues with temperature either.

 

Yeah it's gonna be real unhappy until the computer has a chance to dial things in. Get it going long enough to get it warmed up and the computer into closed loop and then you should be able to hear it improve as the computer makes adjustments. Then get it out and drive it around and it'll get better and better every drive cycle.

 

Has about 70 miles on it. Running waaay better, still needs some timing adjustments. The cam hates the brakes LoL

Still a bitch to start. :\

 

Timing is absolutely killing me on this motor.

Ive read about a SPOUT connector? This needs to be unplugged, then set the timing at 10-13* BTDC and then turn it off, plug it in and re-start it?

It always gives me **** when I try to start it.

 

Spout plug is in the TFI wiring harness, it's actually a jumper that completes a circuit between the ignition module and computer and removing the plug disables computer advance. You don't have to kill the motor when removing or installing the plug, it's actually handy to have the motor running so you can verify the timing is advancing as it should, worst case this will set a code but it won't affect engine operation so don't worry about it.

 

The spout is a grey plug that connects to a plug that looks like an injector plug. It is either located next to distributor or on fender well next to the tfi module.
You unplug it while truck is running, and it will lock the computer from adjusting the timing.
That way you can time the motor with it running and set base timing.
Or you can adjust it with the motor off.
Supposedly if you don't unplug the spout, or pip some people call it, the computer can compensate a fair amount to counteract what you're trying to do.