When loaded with camper and boat, my GVW is around 19K. I take it over the cascades via highway 2 and Stevens Pass here in Washington state from time to time. The mods in my signature have helped quite a bit. I'd like to be able to stay in it and hold 50-55mph up the grades, but at those speeds in direct drive, I often hit 1300 degrees and have to back out of it. On the last 2 mile stretch before the summit, I'm in second gear, about 2900 rpm and 45mph to keep EGTs cool. I'd like to stay in direct, but rpm is 2100 or so, and not much boost, maybe 12psi and some smoke (not bad). There is a 40mph hairpin turn 2-3 miles before the top that slows me down. Between that and rough road, I'm not able to hold the higher speeds that would allow higher rpms.

Not enough boost at that rpm to keep EGTs in check, even though I can add fuel. I run the Edge on level 4 with this load, and modulate EGTs with the go-pedal.

So what I'm looking for is a way to run 45-55mph on this pass and keep EGTs in check. If money was no object, regearing to 4:30s would help, or a gear splitter so I could get something between 2nd and direct.

Is the Edge part of the problem? Would a dp tune run cooler at similar fueling? Or am I looking at a turbine housing increase (1.0AR or?) Or something else?

 

Is level 4 on your Edge a tow tune?

 

I think all 5 settings are just fueling curves, 0 stock, 1 lowest, 2 etc. They have names for what that's worth: 0 stock, 1 mileage, 2 tow, 3 drive, 4 race, 5 extreme. Mine's an older unit, with no trans programming, other than a defuel on WOT shifts checkbox.

 

Sounds ok.

You answered your own question.
These trucks will run 3300 RPM all day long.


You're not going to make more power without exasperating the problem. More power comes from more fuel. However, it sounds to me like you're running an Edge Juice. If you're running into EGT problems with what little bit you're getting out of increasing the injection pressure, then actual tuning will really cause problems.

 

Just so we're not confusing terminology here......

The Juice doesn't alter "fueling curves". It simply changes a resistance value that alters the feedback circuit signal to the PCM that reports how accurately the injection pressure regulator duty cycle is following the regulator mapping that is programmed into the PCM.

I'd run it on a "less hot" setting for pulling if you're running into EGT problems.

 

Yes, its the edge juice. You're right of course on how the edge works. My terminology was incorrect. Appreciate the correction. I can certainly run in 2nd gear at 2900 to 3300 rpm and get the job done. Sounds like that's my best bet with this particular pass, where I am unable to run at 55-65mph where direct drive would give me the rpms I need.

I was hoping at 2100 rpm in direct drive, there would be options for more power while limiting EGTs to 1300 or less.

 

I know that grade. That thing gobbles the gauge even when empty. You would benefit from a proper tuner with a decel tune (empty) or a real engine brake with that hauling weight. The westbound run has me in decel tune when empty, I never have to use the brakes.

That aside, tuning will take you only so far for getting up that transmission eater. If you're serious about this, you can look at powering up... but I think your boost numbers are holding you back. I get 10-12 PSI boost while climbing that grade empty... I would expect you to get 15-17 while towing, and some minor mods will push that up even higher. You either have exhaust leaks (pre-turbo) or a boost leak. Two things can help here: Research a "boost leak detector" on the forum, and look for soot anywhere under the hood. There should not be soot in there. Really look around with a light, mirror, inspection camera, child, gnome, or whatever you can find.

 

Going westbound is easier for me - I can go 55-60mph and boost gets up to 17 or so. Its the eastbound run from the hairpin turn to the summit, where I'm 45-55 that is the issue with low boost. I dont think I have leaks, just low rpm. No soot anywhere around up-pipes. All IC boots removed and reinstalled tight. Still a good idea to make up the detector - I'll search for that and give it a try.

Assuming I dont have boost leaks, sounds like 2100 rpm is well below good HP for this engine, and I'm expecting too much.

 

2100 is a dead-flat cruise at 70 with OD on Stinky. You want more RPMs when pulling the grade... going over 2600 sounds weird, but I've done it for hours. A tuner with a tow tune will change your shift pressures and shift points. A proper chip augments your transmission as well as your engine... something to think about.

 

Good words. I'll be looking at upgrading from the Edge in the future. Have to decide between a PCM flash and the F6. I run in pretty much one program all the time now, but the ability to get tweaked programs as these trucks age and as we make mods sounds attractive.

For now, I'll drop to 2nd and bring the rpms up to 2900 on this last stretch of the eastbound leg. That'll give me 45mph. Might push it to 3100 or 3200 to get 50 based on Cleatus12r's comment. Then again, what's my hurry?

 

We can get you setup with some tunes that will most definitely help you out. The Edge unit is very generic and does nothing for the trans. The way the transmission shifts makes a big difference when towing.

Let me know if you would like anymore info on our products. I will be glad to help you out.

 

Appreciate it Justin. I would like to call and discuss my options.

Tugly >> I hear you on the decel westbound. I tap the brakes a bit even with OD locked out going down the pass that way. I pulled my EBPV though so not sure a decel tune will work. I just tap the brakes a bit anyway, so not much wear from it. Wish the boat had electric brakes to assist more. Just surge brakes, but I keep them in top shape. When I tow the utility trailer, its electric brakes help a bit.

 

No EBPV? You'd be better off living on the warm side of the state. I love how that thing just jacks up the engine temp in the winter, and puts the hurt to momentum down these grades. I'll never get rid of mine.

 

yea, I'm on the warm side. I miss the 4 season side, but steady employment seems to be on the coast in this state. Hope to retire on the east side one day.

My EBPV was leaking pretty bad. Wanted to reduce EGTs every possible way at the time too, so I went with the EBPV delete pedestal and high flow outlet, rather than reseal.

Where is that 9% grade?

 

my f250 7.3 turbo diesel has been getting this bad surge
the rpm goes up and down and keeps alternating,i replaced the icp sensor
and tried removing the fuel oil temp sensor and starting it up
both of these things made it abit better but not gone completly
i wpould really like some help!


p.s. sorry if i posted this in the wrong category or somthing
im new and still have no idea how to navigate the site

thank you