I want to replace my rotors but seem to be finding conflicting information on if they are integral rotor/hub or separate. I wanted to order the parts before I tear them apart.
For the separate rotors, do they bolt to the back side of the hub, or fit over the outside of the hub.

There appears to be a joint between the hub and rotor, so I think I have separate rotor/hub, but I can't tell for sure. I'm including a couple of photos in hopes they'll help to answer. I checked and do have dual piston calipers, if that matters.
Thanks.


Here's a closeup. There looks to be a joint right at the little indentation.

 

that's a once piece rotor/hub. When I replaced the one on my '86 it was the same style.

Seperate hub/rotor units have the rotor fitting over the top of the hub. Never saw one that bolted in from the back.

TR

 

If you go to Autozone's site and look your truck up, it shows two different stud sizes, and you can get it with the hub or without. Take it all apart, and drive the studs out, and it should come apart. Even at autozone's site, the one that comes with the hub says it's "pressed in" with "pressed in" studs.

Rockauto is the same way; You can buy it with the hub and rotor together, or take yours apart and buy just the rotor.

 

Well, being able to separate them would explain the conflicting information I'm finding on parts sites.
The FM site shows the Wagner BD60394 as fitting my truck.


Obviously hoping I can replace just the rotor as they are substantially cheaper than the combo.

 

Sorry. I didn't look closely enough at your picture. Looks like you have a F250 with maybe 4wd? I was basing my post upon my experience with a '86 F-150 with 2wd.

TR

 

I just did this on my truck. You can drive the studs out with a hammer. They are swaged into the rotor/hub from the back. You can hammer them back into your new rotor, but you should check the rotor for straightness because hammering on it can warp it. If it does, you'll have to get your new rotor turned. I ended up taking mine so a shop to have the studs pressed back in to avoid this problem.

 

Were you reading on the mobile version? Looks like signatures don't show up there.

I have a press, so I should be good.

Now I just have to decide if I want to rebuild or replace the calipers. I'm replacing the MC and a couple of brake lines plus the flexible lines, probably installing a manually adjustable proportioning valve and completely replacing the rear brake components.

 

If your pads are worn down pretty thin, I would replace the calipers, or get ready to just in case. It's common for the pistons to build up rust behind them over time, and when you press them back into the caliper to install the new thicker pads, it gets pushed over the rust and it will then soon stick.

Also pay careful attention to the caliper slides where the caliper mounts. The caliper only has pistons on one side. So for the other pad on the other side to apply itself to the rotor, the caliper itself has to move in it's mount. They can get stuck from corrosion over time, so this area needs to be cleaned up, and greased with high temp grease or never seize. You can tell if this was a problem on the old pads, if one is worn thinner than the other.

 

The pads aren't really thin, but the rotors are in bad shape so the pads will be worn to match.
I was assuming if I rebuilt the calipers I'd replace the pistons. I haven't checked to see if there's a rebuild kit available that includes pistons.

Never Seeze is my friend.

 

For some reason I just turn my old calipers in and get rebuilt ones. I can't remember if it was price versus time rebuilding the old ones, or it may have been the rounded off and stuck bleeder screws.