Gorilla extended lug nuts?
#1
Gorilla extended lug nuts?
Hey all,
New here and had a question that I’m sure this forum can help with. First off, I did research the topic before posting, though I really wanted to double check.
I have a 1977 F250 SuperCab. It’s 2 wheel drive and the prior owner had BFG’s 33x12.5x16.5 tires in the rear and 31x10.5x16.5 in the front. It also came with 2 good rear spares (new BFG’s 33x12.5x16.5).
Both my 31’s are looking grim and need to be replaced, so I was looking at just replacing them with 33‘s (so I don’t need to carry 2 different type of spare tires on extended road trips).
Presently, I have steel 16.5 rims, but I live in Key West and the subtropic wet climate, but more importantly the salt air, love to rust them away...it’s a continuous battle. The truck also came with a set of aluminum slotted rims (16.5 x 9.75) which seemed to be a viable solution.
Upon putting them on I noticed the issue that many have with these same popular rims on these vehicles, the lugs are too short and too narrow. It looks to be a lost cause (unless I wanted to go through the grief of putting longer lugs in), but I wanted to check to see if anyone has had a similar rim switch problem and was able to fix them with Gorilla extended lug nuts? And if so, just how safe are they? I see you can get the these nuts with extended shank lengths/diameters to possibly fix this problem, though it seems to me that the wheel would never be properly centered? Am I wrong?
I checked out an earlier post here regarding the same issue (different rim), https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ach-studs.html but never got closure on whether or not it worked and if so, just how safe they are.
I have attached a few pics to help understand the sizing issue. When possible, I tried to burn the first inch off the tape to make it easier to read. Thanks for your help!!
New here and had a question that I’m sure this forum can help with. First off, I did research the topic before posting, though I really wanted to double check.
I have a 1977 F250 SuperCab. It’s 2 wheel drive and the prior owner had BFG’s 33x12.5x16.5 tires in the rear and 31x10.5x16.5 in the front. It also came with 2 good rear spares (new BFG’s 33x12.5x16.5).
Both my 31’s are looking grim and need to be replaced, so I was looking at just replacing them with 33‘s (so I don’t need to carry 2 different type of spare tires on extended road trips).
Presently, I have steel 16.5 rims, but I live in Key West and the subtropic wet climate, but more importantly the salt air, love to rust them away...it’s a continuous battle. The truck also came with a set of aluminum slotted rims (16.5 x 9.75) which seemed to be a viable solution.
Upon putting them on I noticed the issue that many have with these same popular rims on these vehicles, the lugs are too short and too narrow. It looks to be a lost cause (unless I wanted to go through the grief of putting longer lugs in), but I wanted to check to see if anyone has had a similar rim switch problem and was able to fix them with Gorilla extended lug nuts? And if so, just how safe are they? I see you can get the these nuts with extended shank lengths/diameters to possibly fix this problem, though it seems to me that the wheel would never be properly centered? Am I wrong?
I checked out an earlier post here regarding the same issue (different rim), https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ach-studs.html but never got closure on whether or not it worked and if so, just how safe they are.
I have attached a few pics to help understand the sizing issue. When possible, I tried to burn the first inch off the tape to make it easier to read. Thanks for your help!!
#2
Honestly, I would save up and get some wheels that fit. The problem your facing is the holes are too large, so even putting longer studs wouldnt work. Keep in mind too, that those extended lug nuts put greater leverage on the stud. The clamping force is toward the outer part of the rim, which Ive heard can snap the stud. You could try something like this...
adaptitusa.com
adaptitusa.com
#4
Those wheels (aluminum slots) require a shank style lug nut, no need for adapters or different wheels, just get the correct size lug nut and you're in business, in your case you'll need this size here...Gorilla 75187 Chrome Duplex Mag Lug Nuts 1 2 in x 20 RH | eBay
The shank style lug nuts used on aluminum wheels do have a tendancy to loosen over time if not properly torqued, they should be torqued during initial install (typically 95-110 ft. lbs.), re-torqued after 50 miles and re-torqued yet again after 100 miles.
It's also imperative the correct shank style lug nut be used, many variations of this lug nut will "fit" but that does not make them correct, or safe to use.
Too long of a shank and the lug nut bottoms out on the hub, even though the wheel may feel tight, there's not enough clamping force to properly secure the wheel.
Too short of a shank and the lug nut does not engage enough of the wheel studs threads, equally as dangerous as the too long shank scenario above.
Lastly, the shank diameter must match that of your wheel, the differences in diameter may seem negligible but it's very importmant, too small a shank diameter and the wheel never properly seats in a centered position, putting undue force on the wheel studs.
The shank style lug nuts used on aluminum wheels do have a tendancy to loosen over time if not properly torqued, they should be torqued during initial install (typically 95-110 ft. lbs.), re-torqued after 50 miles and re-torqued yet again after 100 miles.
It's also imperative the correct shank style lug nut be used, many variations of this lug nut will "fit" but that does not make them correct, or safe to use.
Too long of a shank and the lug nut bottoms out on the hub, even though the wheel may feel tight, there's not enough clamping force to properly secure the wheel.
Too short of a shank and the lug nut does not engage enough of the wheel studs threads, equally as dangerous as the too long shank scenario above.
Lastly, the shank diameter must match that of your wheel, the differences in diameter may seem negligible but it's very importmant, too small a shank diameter and the wheel never properly seats in a centered position, putting undue force on the wheel studs.
#5
Get some lug nuts like these. Rule of thumb is you need to screw the nut on the stud equal to at least the stud size.
In your case 1/2 inch. These hare just right. Even with the washer added in.
Chrome 1 2" 20 Mag Style Lug Nuts 20 Pack Ford Mopar Hot Rod Rat Rod 4x4 Kustom | eBay
In your case 1/2 inch. These hare just right. Even with the washer added in.
Chrome 1 2" 20 Mag Style Lug Nuts 20 Pack Ford Mopar Hot Rod Rat Rod 4x4 Kustom | eBay
#6
#7
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#8
Get some lug nuts like these. Rule of thumb is you need to screw the nut on the stud equal to at least the stud size.
In your case 1/2 inch. These hare just right. Even with the washer added in.
Chrome 1 2" 20 Mag Style Lug Nuts 20 Pack Ford Mopar Hot Rod Rat Rod 4x4 Kustom | eBay
In your case 1/2 inch. These hare just right. Even with the washer added in.
Chrome 1 2" 20 Mag Style Lug Nuts 20 Pack Ford Mopar Hot Rod Rat Rod 4x4 Kustom | eBay
#9
#13
whack the screwdriver with a hammer and pop the washer free, you'll probably mar the inside of the lug hole in the process but don't worry about it.
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