Anybody had to change out a door jamb switch? One of 'em on the '85 has been sticking, so I threw one into my last RockAuto order. Came today, went to install it, and WTF it's different. Sticks out from the door jamb a lot more than the old one. Threads in the same way, but I'm sure the way it sticks out, as soon as I shut the door I'm sure I'd destroy it.

So I figure it's a bad web listing. But I looked at LMC, Graveyard, even AutoZone, and their pics all show the same too-long switch. I can't imagine this new switch working in the truck, eh?

 

It looks like the spring mechanism in your old switch doesn't work anymore. I would say that as long as the center depresses on the new switch when installed, you should be good to go.

 

close the door carefully and give it a try

 

If the gold portion doesn't push in with the button on the end (which I suspect it doesn't), I wouldn't even try it. Why risk damaging something?

Sounds like it's time to make a trip to the scrapyard for a good one (or maybe a member here has a good spare).

I looked at a few parts suppliers too and they all call for that one. Even tried a couple of different cars and no different.

 

Did you try compressing it by hamd to see how far it closes.
Get a can of playdough and glob a large hunk in the door where the switch goes. Close the door on it fully then measure the depth it compresses to. That will tell you how much the switch has to compress to in order to fit. You can get it at a dollar tree for a buck if yall have stores like that round there.

 

According to the 1980/89 Ford Light Truck Parts Catalog: There are two different types of door jamb courtesy lamp switches:

EOTZ-13713-A .. Courtesy Lamp Switch (Motorcraft SW-1835).

1980/89 F100/350 & Bronco.
---------------------------
E8DZ-13713-A (replaced D3TZ-13713-A & E3SZ-13713-A) .. Courtesy Lamp Switch (Motorcraft SW-2003-A).

1973/96 F100/350, Bronco & Econoline / 1983/86 & 1990/94 Ranger / 1983/87 Thunderbird/Cougar / 1984/86 Bronco II / 1986 & 1990/93 Aerostar / 1986/95 Taurus/Sable / 1991/01 Explorer / 1997 F250/350.

 

If the new switch is made correctly, when you install it and close the door carefully, the brass (gold) sleeve is supposed to slide in the hut (hex part). This allows for variation in door to post clearance. Chances are your old switch may have worn the button or simply drifted with use. My brother had an E-250 that was used for interstate delivery/pickup runs. The right rear door switch had drifted in to the point it wouldn't always turn the courtesy lights off. I took it out, pushed it back then re-installed it and gently closed the door, problem solved.

 

The old ones usually start working for me by just reaching down and twisting the plunger back and forth with your fingers while it's still mounted in the door jamb. That will usually get it going for a long while before you have to do it again.

 

These were the thoughts I had going through my head. If it did this, it means that every switch ends up being a custom fit!

I've don't that plenty of times!

 

That pic of the old switch is actually of the _good_ one, so its depth must be right. The one on the other side, the bad one, is kinda mangled at the button part. The idea of the brass part seating itself kinda makes sense. But I'm pushing on it now, and the brass part isn't moving at all. Maybe the weight of the door will do it. Fah, how is it the cheapest parts and simplest procedures are the ones that cause the most ?

 

You need a fair amount of pressure to move it, otherwise it would slip every time you shut the door.

 

Just be glad its old school. I had a 99 yota 4x4 that i worked on for 2 months, took to a shop where they had it for a week and a half all to find out it was a stupid fuse the po spliced in cause the og power wire shorted and burned in a obscure out of sight place. Tightmodern engine compartments are a pain.

 

Later trucks use a "door ajar" switch to turn on the dome light. They are famous for getting stuck in the "on" position. Ford made them so plunger in is on, out is off, the factory grease dries out and they stick. If you have an alarm system, it will go off randomly because of this.

 

Well, the brass part seated just like lebaron said, new switch works just fine. Sorry for all the fuss over a stoopid little switch.

 

Yes, you found out that these switches are adjustable.

They adjust to length the first time you close the door.

No problem, that is how we all learn.

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