02 f250 7.3 loses power with no throtle response then it goes back to normal but is doing it more and more a few lights go on when it dies out, I've put new cps , fuel filter , all relays under the hood , cleaned peddle contact to sensor please help oh no codes

 

If I was a guessing man I would say to replace the pedal switch which should be a Idle Validation Switch and the potentiometer/resistor for throttle position. All guesses aside.....what exact area of tri cities WA are you in? Can you be more specific like naming a specific city in WA? There are several people up there with AE that can help you read the codes.
What brand CPS did you use? If it was not stock then put a ford OEM part in. The aftermarket CPS's don't work well at all.
Look under your truck at the Vehicle Speed Sensor on the differential. Is it plugged in all the way with the gasket in place? Is there water in it if it is unplugged? It is free to check this plug and only takes a flashlight and about 2 minutes.

 

Richland wa and napa on the cps and I will try that in the am thanks

 

The OD switch wire can do all kinds of wacky things when it shorts out (pretty much all of them will eventually...) Also, easy to check and FREE! Well, except for the piece of tape.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...tch-short.html

 

This am cleaned speed sensor on rear axel took it for a drive when I pushed the peddle down it clicked from fuse panel lost power the three lights came on the left side of dash check engine , water in fuel I let off peddle regained power pushed down peddle same thing I turned around and made the half block trip with out it doing it again i have no codes !! I do have the edge cts would that hurt anything ?

 

I do not know about your edge tuner. This will bump it to the top and maybe someone will give us some more info.
The Water In Fuel light has nothing to do with the VSS on the differential.
You really need to have codes pulled.

 

Well, I would de-program or uninstall any chips to rule that out. You sure it's not your Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)?

Also, check to make sure your nut did not come off of your IPR sensor and/or it's loose. I had a similar weird problem recently, it's because the nut and spacer fell off. Luckily, both were still in the engine valley.

 

The closest person with AE that can scan for you is 2000ca250. He is in or near Ellensburg, WA which is 113 miles away.
Can you remove the edge and go back to stock program or does the edge keep the programs in your PCM if it is removed.
I told you to check the VSS plug because it would not cost you anything.
This problem has been caused by a tube being blocked to the Exhaust Back Pressure Sensor. The tube is located at the top of your passenger side exhaust manifold and goes up to the sensor. Use a 9/16 wrench to hold the bracket that the sensor plugs into and put a 1 inch deep well socket on the sensor to unscrew it after you have unplugged it. The EBPS sends aignal to the PCM for fueling and boost control.
After the sensor is removed.....try to put a piece of weed eater line down the tube and spin it at the same time to clean it out. You may have to completely remove the tube to get it clean but you can also try a coat hanger to push thru the tube. Be careful with the sensor. Don't drop it. Do not push anthing up into the sensor. It is just a diaghpram/bellows that senses pressure. I am not at home now but if you do a search for 7.3L MPG on youtube there is a guy that videos the removal of the tube and sensor. It only took me about 35 minutes to remove the old tube and replace with a new tube. I did not have to remove the sensor. Lay under the front of the truck on the passenger side looking up (WITH SAFETY GLASSES ON) and touch the exhaust manifold at the front of the engine. There is a single tube that goes up to the sensor. Remove sensor first and put weed wacker line into it to clean it out while spinning the line or a coat hanger. If it is really plugged then remove the tube all the way and use penetrant to get the blockage removed.
You really need the codes read with a scanner that can read our codes. The one at advance and orilellys does not work on our trucks.
Dwayne
My tube with 190K on the odometer had a 1/4 inch hole in it and had to be replaced. I owned the truck from 184K and the hole may have been there when I bought it along with the trashed pinion and differential gears that are currently being changed out. Doooooohhhhhh! That is 800$ but well worth it to have someone else do that differential work. That includes the gear set, bearings and seals.

 

I cleaned the ebps tube , and cleaned and tightend the nut and the truck ran great Monday and Tuesday this after noon the truck lost power twice ! I don't know if it was any of those two things that I did or not but I m still in the same boat also no codes came up on the edge cts please help I have a hunting trip with my boy next week and also want to thank all of you that are helping!!!

 

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? May want to make sure you don't have a dying fuel pump, or possibly a clogged fuel line from the tank. The fuel line is easy to "clear" by unplugging the fuel line going from the tank into your pump...then blowing short blasts of air from an air compressor thru the line back toward the tank. Make sure your fuel cap is off when you do this.

Also, have you checked your fuel bowl / filter? If you take the filter out, look past the fuel heater plate to the bottom of the bowl, and make sure there is no sand or gunk in the bottom. I've seen that several times. One time, the lady who was selling the PSD said she had never had to change the fuel filter!!!! No telling how many miles were on that poor filter...it was a miracle the truck ran.

 

When the truck loses power does it then just idle or does it seem like it is being starved for fuel?
If it seems like it is starved for fuel the you will need a fuel line disconnect tool I thin in the 3/8 inch size to remove the suction line from your fuel pump and do like Tailgate told you......remove fuel cap. Blow compressed air into the tank several times to blow the suction screens out inside the tank.

Now, if it seems like it is at idle and when you push the pedal you get no increase in RPM then it is the Idle Validation Switch(IVS) or the Throttle Position Sensor(TPS) This may be a single sensor mounted on your gas pedal or it may be two seperate sensors.
The way it works is like this: Foot off the gas pedal, the pedal should make contact with the IVS. This tells the truck to go to a idle speed or to defuel depending on other conditions. When you barely put your foot on the gas pedal and the IVS is not making contact any longer then the PCM knows where the TPS is at and what resistance to start at for sending a signal for increasing Pulse Width Modulation(PWM), which is a signal to the fuel injectors to fire and how long they need to fire in milliseconds, so as you push the gas pedal the resistance on the TPS changes and therefore the PWM changes and your RPM's and therefore power continue to go up until you get to Wide Open Throttle(WOT).
Believe me, I am not making this stuff up and I am not typing for the continued health of my fingers. I am attempting to educate you on how your truck gets a signal to raise RPM's so you can go on a hunting trip with your truck.
Look at the sensor on your gas pedal. Is it one piece or two pieces? Some people try to clean it with electrical spray but the end result is purchasing another OEM from ford and it usually solves the problem. BUT before you spend the money on the part we are trying to get out of you if the truck seems starved for fuel or if your foot is not on the gas pedal and then you push it and you get no response.
HOW MANY MILES ON YOUR TRUCK??????????? This miles thing should be in your first post every time you ask us any question, even if the question is "would you like to go get some frosty beverages?"
OK. Go figure out which the situiation is or purchase a TPS/IVS and see if it makes any change. If you had a scanner capable of live data then you could monitor a few items and figure this out very quickly. Until then we have to guess based on the information you provide to us.
Dwayne

 

Sorry new to the 7.3 my truck has 166654 miles on it and it does not seem like its starving for gas , when it stalls it will click some were in the fuse panel like a relay then it's like you turn the key off no peddle response if you take you're foot off peddle it comes back alive , I've been driving around the block and it seems to happen at about the same distance the happens several times in a row one wright after another but when I get home idle it for several minutes I can drive the same distance before it happens again, I will try both of those things u asked me to do and I need to change the whole peddle assemble and
THANK ALL of you

 

Also. If you just put the truck in neutral and run the throttle up slooooowwwwwllllllyyyy and then let off the pedal all the way and do this many times......does it lose power and stay at idle once in a while? Something again that only will cost you a small amount of fuel but you can try it and find out the results.

Also. Always save all your old parts until you know that was the problem because sometimes you might change a part and it will not solve the problem but you throw away the other part in the process. Save it if it is not the problem.

 

I slowly did the pushed down peddle several times then a relay clicked and it stalled then came back then some times it died it can take several times pushing peddle before it happens it some times is consistent stalling , I put my fingers on the Idm relay and feels like its the one clicking

 

I finally replaced the tps (foot peddle) and still have same problem , I can put my hand on the idm relay and it clicks before it loses power and no codes besides p0603 which they say comes up with the programmers