i have a 93 f150 2wd. darn good old truck. but i had to do ball joint and when doing the passenger side it was dark out and i dropped the bearing on the concrete and gravel i wiped them off but well its howling. can i just replace the bearings or should i do the races to? how do you do the races i have never done it. also when turning left the noise gets louder when turning right it all but goes away. so i think it is the passenger side. thanks guys for all the help.

 

It all depends. If the race is grooved or damaged in any way, it will just ruin a new bearing.

Replacing the races isn't too hard. Usually a long punch through the center hole will get them out. They are snug, but not unbearable to get out. I then use the old race to use as a punch to get the new ones in. Don't go too far, as the old race will get stuck in the hole too. That is when I find something softer to tap the race in snug. Have to be careful not to chip or damage the new race.

Jack up the wheels and carefully turn them. Usually you can feel the drag of a bad bearing.

BTW, I always keep some brake clean handy to clean things up before assembly. That might have saved that old bearing(making sure all the grit was out). You'll need some wheel bearing grease to pack in those new bearings. No special tools needed. Just a glop in the palm of your hand and work the bearing around til the grease is forced into the race. Messy, but effective.

 

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If you stack the old race on the new one like this, you can drive it in until it seats, then use your punch to remove the old one if it gets stuck.

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Do it like this and there is no lip to catch with the punch

 

i tried jacking them up and turning and even made sure i didn't over tighten them. they turn ok the brakes are the only thing that drug really. but thats typical. when removing the races do you punch them both out the back? ( where the hub faces against the spindle?) or does the inner race go in the big hole and the outer goes in the little hole? i know they also make a race install tool i can rent. if the bearings are noisy isnt that almost a given that the race will be bad? its not real bad yet. they don't grind like metal on metal its more like a loud hum kinda like a big mud tire sound.

 

Don't let it go. If the outer race spins in the rotor it can ruin it. If the inner race spins on the spindle it can ruin it.
I bet there are a bunch of youtube videos on doing it. Picture= 1K words

 

...and if you can "rent" a set of race drivers on the free tool loaner program, do that and disregard the part about using the old race as a driver.

 

am i right that if i turn left and it makes more noise and if i turn right it stops that it is the passenger front?

 

Simple way if you have a Mig welder is to run 2 Fat beads about 1" long on the inner race (The one in the rotor) 180 deg from each other. When the weld cools the race will just about fall out, if not then you have good knocking points to remove.

 

Yes.. most likely.

 

I've used this technique on sealed bearings but it doesn't really apply in this situation.

Op: If you could use a new rotor on that side, now is the time. The 2wd ones come with the race already pressed into them. When you buy the bearings you can get them with or without the outer races.

 

i believe the rotor is ok. would it be better off to just replace the rotor and already have the races pressed in. and buy bearing separate?

 

Think it through, welding on the roller surface pulls the bearing OD smaller as the weld cools. Explain how you do the with a sealed bearing????

 

To get a sealed bearing out of a fwd that does not have a bolt in "hub assy", but the bearing is pressed into the knuckle, this type:





a hammer and punch will separate the inner races and the ball bearings from the outer race. Then run a bead inside the outer race to make it come out a lot easier.


Edit: The inner races on our trucks come out easy, go through the oppisite side of the hub w/ a punch, find the lip of the race and drive it out. Move back and forth as the race ***** in the hub. 5-6 hits and its out before the welder is plugged in, then you still have to drive them out.

 

That bad bearing noise is such an awful noise. Mine sounded like freight train in the cab at 55mph. Once you take the hub off, clean the grease off and see the races, it will make perfect sense. When mine got loud, I only replaced the bearings, and it fixed it. I would have preferred to replace the races also though.

I've replaced bearings without replacing the races, but you want to make sure they're not badly scored or pitted or whatnot. Replacing the races takes longer, but I think it's worth it if you are able to do it.

Like said earlier, if you can get that driver tool, use it. It makes it so much easier (it least it did for me).

Chris

 

Ok we are talking about the same thing. Not all Brake Rotors have the knockout holes. I use this all of the time on the bearings in the Pinion carrier assembly on 9" rear ends