I've had an idea ever since i bought this truck. I'm still use to my old truck where the high beam switch was on the floor(love that setup). But i was wondering if i could move some wires around to where when you push the lever to lock the highs on the lows stay on too, like when you pull the lever back towards you. Even the highs on their not bright enough and if i hold the lever back and both come on it's perfect. I

f that is actually possible would that extra heat cause the housing to melt?

I've replaced the headlight bulbs and that helped alot but it's not enough.

Thanks

 

The heat might melt the housings, and the current through both wires at the same time, continuously, might damage the switch. Keep in mind that there are NO relays, so the wiring/switches carry ALL the current.

At the very least, you should get (or build) one of those wiring upgrade kits, that employ two relays, one for the low beams and one for the highs, and runs main load the current directly from the battery, through their own fuses and the relays, to the headlights. The existing wiring to the switches then only carries low-level switching current. This is not only safer with high-power headlight bulbs, but since it uses much bigger wires for the main power to the lights, you get much less voltage loss and it burns the lights even brighter. Who knows, this might be enough to get you the light output you need on the high beams alone. If it doesn't, at least it will be a much safer way to rig it to burn both beams at the same time.

 

That's what I was thinking too after some reading. I don't know if anyone's seen it much less used it but lmc sells a headlight harness that's suppose to do the same thing by adding relays an running it off the batteries just didn't know if it was worth the money an time. I do need to replace the headlight houseings cause the lens' are cloudy an trying to buff them out hasn't worked but every I look an read people have problems with new ones not fitting proper.

 

yes!

hang on i got this.

 

Whiter Whites, Brighter Brights .: Articles

here you go!

A correct wiring of the lights to be done.

and the ability to be awesome as well.

 

That's what I was looking for! But being lazy an intimidated by wiring (took me two weeks to wire my headunit in). I was wondering if anyone had use the harness from lmc it seems to be pretty much plug an play an nice an neat so I wouldn't have wires running all over the place

 

It's not that bad compared to other wiring.

your just wiring in a relay. The directions from that one are really good.

Been meaning to do it, just never got to it.

 

The LMC harnesses appear to be the ones made by Putco, which are available on Amazon for a few dollars less, and much cheaper (free?) shipping. Nice that it's plug-and-play; instead of splicing into the headlight wiring, you plug one of the old headlight wires into the harness, which leads to the relay triggers. Then it has its own sockets to plug into the headlights, and sockets for the relays. Ring terminals for raw power go on the junction at the starter relay. Quality is medium; does NOT include fuse holder(s), so to really do it right, you're still fabbing some wiring. And the relays are sorta non-standard; they don't have the terminals in the typical layout that you see for most automotive relays. I got one for the '85 IDI when I replaced the sealed beams with Hella knock-offs with H4s. Haven't had it in a dark enough place to see if it really makes a difference yet. I mostly did the harness to protect the existing wiring / switches.

Some other folks make plug-and-play harnesses, with what appear to be better quality components, and I believe they include fuses, but they're in the $60-80 range.

 

Just went out and checked mine, and it does have main fuses. OK, mine's about 2 years old, so they may have changed since then.

One of the nice things about the LMC kit is that is has plugs for the stock lights and light wires. The relay input plugs into one of the stock light plugs, and the relay outputs plug directly into the lights. No wire cutting or splicing. One of the stock light plugs is "excess", I just bagged and taped it. You do have to make bolt on 2 ring connections... to +12 power (battery + terminal works) and another to chassis ground. REAL easy to do.

One other item to note on "high + low" beams... unlike dual headlights, the filaments for both high and low are in the same bulb capsule. I suspect that the bulb itself can't dissipate heat fast enough, and will either crack the bulb and/or melt the filaments pretty quickly. If you want "brighter brights", likely a better way to go is to add auxiliary lights running off their own relay. I would love to get one of the relay input plugs from the LMC kit and slave my auxiliaries to the high beam switch.

 

Just wiring the lights correctly will give you amazingly bright headlights.

Match that up with the stock bulbs and clear diffusers and you'll blind everyone.


I've actually checked this, your lights are only getting like 10 volts.
It's pretty bad.

 

I have an LMC one and a RJM harness. the RJM harness is SUPERIOR to the LMC in EVERY way.

I put a set of phillips bulbs, RJM harness and a new set of headlight lens in my truck. It updated the lighting system by 20 years

 

So I didn't want to start a new thread cluttering the forum up. Does anyone have the moog part numbers for tie rods i wanna replace everything all the ends drag link and sleeves. i've looked and theres too many parts and the descriptions suck majorly.

And i just ordered the RJM harness i read about it and it did seem a bunch better than the LMC one. and not bad for $87 shipped.

 

Anybody got a link to the RJM? How does it compare to this one: 9007 Headlight Heavy Duty Wiring Harness Upgrade ?

 

Start a new thread

Really?
Let me google that for you

 

For future lurkers, who don't want Google spying on them, direct link: RJM Injection Tech — Headlight Harness .