1994 mustang gt donar for 51 F-1 (pro's&con's)
#1
1994 mustang gt donar for 51 F-1 (pro's&con's)
I have a 1994 mustang gt with the 5.0 and aod automatic transmission at my disposal. I'm wondering how much of the parts are usable on my 1951 F-1 i know i want to use the drive train ie; motor, trans, and rear end to keep all the gearing the same as the car. Is there more useful parts on this thing or is that it? Can i use the front suspension components or are they usless on a full frame truck? I would like to use the disk brakes all around and booster if possible but I'm not sure if i can set up the spindles from the mustang or not. I'm not planning on running efi but the option is there if i change my mind. If any one has info on this sort of donar please throw me the link! I tried the search on my phone sucks!
#2
Hi and Welcome to the forum!
A 1994 Stang will have a computer controlled transmission. AOD-E
Also EEC-V computer. That controls the EFI and Transmission. I don't know how difficult it is to swap this over, but have read it's is a PITA.
The 5.0 is a good choice and will accept a carb/manifold setup.
My opinion sell the AOD-E...if you want overdrive automatic use an AOD(non electric)
Manual tranny seems the Mustang T-5 is the way to go, using the tailshaft housing from an S-10 T-5. More detail is available, but start there.
You will need a rear sump oilpan with the Stang 5.0
A pan from a 5.0 Explorer is a great fit and cheap.
Others will add to this I am sure.
edit: I am using a 5.0 Explorer 5.0 with EFI setup from a Fox body Mustang
my transmission is a '91 AOD from a Crown Vic/Gran Marquis. It is modified to suit my needs, did it all myself.
Time consuming for sure but rewarding in the end. If I can do it, you can too.
A 1994 Stang will have a computer controlled transmission. AOD-E
Also EEC-V computer. That controls the EFI and Transmission. I don't know how difficult it is to swap this over, but have read it's is a PITA.
The 5.0 is a good choice and will accept a carb/manifold setup.
My opinion sell the AOD-E...if you want overdrive automatic use an AOD(non electric)
Manual tranny seems the Mustang T-5 is the way to go, using the tailshaft housing from an S-10 T-5. More detail is available, but start there.
You will need a rear sump oilpan with the Stang 5.0
A pan from a 5.0 Explorer is a great fit and cheap.
Others will add to this I am sure.
edit: I am using a 5.0 Explorer 5.0 with EFI setup from a Fox body Mustang
my transmission is a '91 AOD from a Crown Vic/Gran Marquis. It is modified to suit my needs, did it all myself.
Time consuming for sure but rewarding in the end. If I can do it, you can too.
#3
Hmm thats good to know about the aod-E if thats the case i might look into the full efi swap depending on the difficulty of wiring. I'm young and like a good challenge so i might take it on. The car I'm getting runs and drives and im doing 950$ in trade work for it so i might look to trade for something older i can swap the ifs from also. That is my main concern about this donor, will the front suspension work or is that a bust. Thanks for your input!
#4
Many have used the original front suspension.It can be lowered some. there is a Toyota power steering swap that sounds fairly easy. Also there are IFS kits or like mine, I used a JAG IFS, it is a cheaper IFS alternative and is supposed to be a great setup. They fit our truck like a glove. Just depends on what you want to do. We are a bunch of enablers here!
Even though I have installed a JAG IFS and have no regrets. It takes more time and more money and more research etc. I have been working on mine 2 years now. I figured it would be running by now, but it is not.
I don't have a credit card to build with, so it's just a little at a time.
Welcome to this disease!
This website is a bunch of great people too!
Keeping the language clean and courteous will get you a long ways here!
edit: running manual steering is not a problem either.
Even though I have installed a JAG IFS and have no regrets. It takes more time and more money and more research etc. I have been working on mine 2 years now. I figured it would be running by now, but it is not.
I don't have a credit card to build with, so it's just a little at a time.
Welcome to this disease!
This website is a bunch of great people too!
Keeping the language clean and courteous will get you a long ways here!
edit: running manual steering is not a problem either.
#5
There are several companies that make " plug and play " wireing harnesses for the 5.0 ford. Even ford performance sells them (at a higher price of course). Getting one of these harnesses would alow you to keep the efi and the electronic tranny.
You have the exact drivetrain that I have been looking for...good luck with the install.
You have the exact drivetrain that I have been looking for...good luck with the install.
#6
That shouldn't be a problem for me! I have researched my fingers to the bone on this truck and I've only had it a few months. It has the original running 8ba in it, i know I'll prolly catch flack for yarding it out and going to a Windsor but I'm a young guy on a younger guys budget and I'm also a hot rodder. The flathead imo should be displayed not stuffed between two fat fenders and tucked under a tall hood. I plan on pulling it out and keeping it for a open bay roadster once the f1 is done! I just want to get the truck low and riding nicely so from what ive seen ifs is the best way to go. Just a matter of finding the donor thats advisable to me. I was hoping the 1994 mustang front clip was useable but since i cant seem to find any write ups on that kind if ifs swap im guessing its not doable.
#7
That shouldn't be a problem for me! I have researched my fingers to the bone on this truck and I've only had it a few months. It has the original running 8ba in it, i know I'll prolly catch flack for yarding it out and going to a Windsor but I'm a young guy on a younger guys budget and I'm also a hot rodder. The flathead imo should be displayed not stuffed between two fat fenders and tucked under a tall hood. I plan on pulling it out and keeping it for a open bay roadster once the f1 is done! I just want to get the truck low and riding nicely so from what ive seen ifs is the best way to go. Just a matter of finding the donor thats advisable to me. I was hoping the 1994 mustang front clip was useable but since i cant seem to find any write ups on that kind if ifs swap im guessing its not doable.
Yes you will be slapped around
Where are some pics??? We like pictures, the story behind the truck and yourself. There are also drop axles for our trucks but I can't speak of them as I don't know how involved they are. Any modification will take more time any money than you expect. I would love to have your running-original truck....I have NEVER driven mine!
I have a link at the bottom of my posts, it will take you to my build thread if interested.
Trending Topics
#8
Just a suggestion but if you listen to guys like Jeff and Ax your build will be a lot easier as they both know what they are talking about as do a bunch of others on the site. I am doing the same as Jeff 5.0 EFI but a T5 and I used the wiring harness from the Mustang. Just be sure to tag every connection before you take it out of the donor. Good luck and have fun Dave
#9
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-flat-rod.html
Above is a like to my half way build thread i haven't had time to get much done but it gives you an idea what im working on/with!
Above is a like to my half way build thread i haven't had time to get much done but it gives you an idea what im working on/with!
#10
I have a 53, a 94 GT drag car and a 94 Cobra I am parting out. I gave the stang IFS swap a thought more than once. I think the strut suspension swap would be VERY difficult with lots of fabbing on the top end. Study how the Mustang struts gets its support on the topside. There are MUCH better options IMO.
As far as the rest of the car, it should still be an excellent donor. You have a nice roller block motor that can stay EFI, or switched to carb. Switching the entire EFI harness won't be quick and EZ, but it could be done. If you decide to take this route, you'll have to educate yourself on wiring. You'll have to lose the airbag harness, the ABS would be no treat to attempt to retain. If there is a hotrod harness, it would be a good investment. I love EFI, but a switch to carb would likely save you months of work.
Keep us posted. I'll be following along and help however I can.
As far as the rest of the car, it should still be an excellent donor. You have a nice roller block motor that can stay EFI, or switched to carb. Switching the entire EFI harness won't be quick and EZ, but it could be done. If you decide to take this route, you'll have to educate yourself on wiring. You'll have to lose the airbag harness, the ABS would be no treat to attempt to retain. If there is a hotrod harness, it would be a good investment. I love EFI, but a switch to carb would likely save you months of work.
Keep us posted. I'll be following along and help however I can.
#11
Thanks! I think in my situation i would rather save the $$ from the attempt to stay efi and put that into a good set of aluminum heads. I just hope i can get enough money parting the rest of the 94 gt out to fund a transmission that will work and a front suspension set up weather its a drop axle or ifs swap. How hard would it be to make the rear 4 link work with the factory 94 8.8 link mounts? Or do you think i would be better off selling that and finding a 9 inch?
#12
Carb will be a MUCH easier path for sure. Go light on the aluminum cylinder heads as you don't need anything with big ports. I'm sure the 8.8 link mounts could be used, but the 9inch Ford is a very easy mod and would be my first choice.
You won't have a lot of high dollar parts to sell on the donor, but there are a ton of small parts that can be sold usng the Mostang forum classifieds if you want to trouble with it. I sold a bunch on Corral. I also parted a Cobra with a 5 speed. The GT stuff is much more common and worth less. Carefully remove your donor engine. Emission parts will sell, so will AC, interior parts etc. Don't tear up anything until you know what will or won't sell.
You won't have a lot of high dollar parts to sell on the donor, but there are a ton of small parts that can be sold usng the Mostang forum classifieds if you want to trouble with it. I sold a bunch on Corral. I also parted a Cobra with a 5 speed. The GT stuff is much more common and worth less. Carefully remove your donor engine. Emission parts will sell, so will AC, interior parts etc. Don't tear up anything until you know what will or won't sell.
#13
To answer your questions: No the front suspension is not useable, nor is any other year Mustang IFS. Despite the aftermarket IFS kits being called MII IFS, the good ones use no original factory parts with the possible exception of the spindles. If you find one that does, run the other way. The 94 rear axle will work, it's ~ 1 1/2" narrower than your stock rear axle. You will need to add spring perches and lower shock mounts. If you can find a 99+ rear axle it will be exactly the right width. Realize the bolt pattern will not match the front, but since you evidently will be swapping the front suspension you can decide how you want to match the patterns based on the front suspension choice.
If you want to use a salvage IFS the Jag unit can't be beat for ease of installation (practically bolts in) and handling (the XJ donor is an excellent sports touring design), the front end weights of the two vehicles are nearly identical so springs shocks and sway can be used as is, can be had with disk brakes, all are power R&P steering, and are inexpensive since the donor years car bodies were mostly made of compressed rust.
If you want to use a salvage IFS the Jag unit can't be beat for ease of installation (practically bolts in) and handling (the XJ donor is an excellent sports touring design), the front end weights of the two vehicles are nearly identical so springs shocks and sway can be used as is, can be had with disk brakes, all are power R&P steering, and are inexpensive since the donor years car bodies were mostly made of compressed rust.
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