oil change ideas?
#1
oil change ideas?
I changed my 2011 f-150 5.0l oil today. nothing new. Pulled the drain plug and removed the filter. Should I do more? I let it sit for 2 hours draining.
And I hate how there is oil residual from the filter. I spray purple power(water base degreaser) to clean the oil filter plastic spill guard.
EDIT "UPDATE"
1. Pressing the gas pedal all the way to the floor while starting the engine will only turn over the engine. There is no fuel being injected.
This will prime the engine with oil that was losed when the oil filter was removed.
And I hate how there is oil residual from the filter. I spray purple power(water base degreaser) to clean the oil filter plastic spill guard.
EDIT "UPDATE"
1. Pressing the gas pedal all the way to the floor while starting the engine will only turn over the engine. There is no fuel being injected.
This will prime the engine with oil that was losed when the oil filter was removed.
#3
Im wondering if there are any extra tips/tricks to get more oil out, or even get more oil primed in the system to prevent the dry start after the oil change.
I do fill the oil filter with oil.
The first time I changed my oil on this truck the oil went everywhere.
The second time/this time, I filled it half way and I had no oil spill.
Both times I changed the oil, I had to add 8.2-8.5 quarts to reach the top oil level mark.
I do fill the oil filter with oil.
The first time I changed my oil on this truck the oil went everywhere.
The second time/this time, I filled it half way and I had no oil spill.
Both times I changed the oil, I had to add 8.2-8.5 quarts to reach the top oil level mark.
#4
#6
In addtion to priming the oil filter ... Smear and few drops of oil on the oil filter gasket.
And as long as you're under there ... Use silicone spray to lube/protect -ALL- of the rubber bushings (shocks, control arms, ball joints, sway bar, end-links, etc.), boots (axle shafts, driveshaft, etc.), body mounts, etc., etc., etc..
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-click- the pic'
Goth 150
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And as long as you're under there ... Use silicone spray to lube/protect -ALL- of the rubber bushings (shocks, control arms, ball joints, sway bar, end-links, etc.), boots (axle shafts, driveshaft, etc.), body mounts, etc., etc., etc..
-click- the pic'
Goth 150
< This space intentionally -blank- >
#7
In addtion to priming the oil filter ... Smear and few drops of oil on the oil filter gasket.
I take the rubber ring off and wipe it with new oil.
And as long as you're under there ... Use silicone spray to lube/protect -ALL- of the rubber bushings (shocks, control arms, ball joints, sway bar, end-links, etc.), boots (axle shafts, driveshaft, etc.), body mounts, etc., etc., etc..
------------------------------
-click- the pic'
Goth 150
< This space intentionally -blank- >
I take the rubber ring off and wipe it with new oil.
And as long as you're under there ... Use silicone spray to lube/protect -ALL- of the rubber bushings (shocks, control arms, ball joints, sway bar, end-links, etc.), boots (axle shafts, driveshaft, etc.), body mounts, etc., etc., etc..
-click- the pic'
Goth 150
< This space intentionally -blank- >
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#8
That's a fast oil change
I changed my 2011 f-150 5.0l oil today. nothing new. Pulled the drain plug and removed the filter. Should I do more? I let it sit for 2 hours draining.
And I hate how there is oil residual from the filter. I spray purple power(water base degreaser) to clean the oil filter plastic spill guard.
And I hate how there is oil residual from the filter. I spray purple power(water base degreaser) to clean the oil filter plastic spill guard.
Remove the filter.
THEN: I like to empty the oil in my truck when it is warm, then I jack/tilt it so the drain is the low side of the pan and let it drain. It is really fast that way.
#9
While it is true that it will not start, you also have risk of fuel puddling in the cylinders, by passing the rings going into the oil and washing out your crankshaft bearings or at minimum, excessively thinning the oil at the bearings for only a fraction of a second....the conept is good, the method not a good idea.
#10
When the truck is warm you will not get all of the oil drained. The oil that is in the pan does drain faster but not all of the oil in the engine had drained to the pan.
Changing the oil when it is cold, generally means that the truck has been sitting for a while and the oil has drained to the pan.
I prefer to drain the oil then let it sit over night draining. Then fill it up the following morning. This gets the most oil out.
the times that I dont let it sit over night, I change it when it is cold, --never warm--. I do this because the truck has been sitting for a long time, so a large majority of the oil is already drained to the pan, and not still on all of the parts from previously running, compared to when it is warm from previously running...
#11
While it is true that it will not start, you also have risk of fuel puddling in the cylinders, by passing the rings going into the oil and washing out your crankshaft bearings or at minimum, excessively thinning the oil at the bearings for only a fraction of a second....the conept is good, the method not a good idea.
I highly doubt that ford programed to fuel the truck with out a spark.
#13
While it is true that it will not start, you also have risk of fuel puddling in the cylinders, by passing the rings going into the oil and washing out your crankshaft bearings or at minimum, excessively thinning the oil at the bearings for only a fraction of a second....the conept is good, the method not a good idea.
when you hold the pedal down and start it shuts off the fuel and ignition. This is a way technicians use to diagnose certian things in the system. so no worry about fuel puddling up.
#15
Not intending to disrespect anyone's maintenance procedures but these all seem to be taking a simple oil change to the extreme. Perhaps I don't take it seriously enough, IDK.
Truth be told, I'm slowly getting out of the oil change business. I take my 2011 to the dealer every time.
As for my '04 Expy and 2010 Focus, I do them myself. I do pull up on the ramps and allow it to sit over night. In the morning, I remove the drain plug. While draining, I remove the old filter and prep the new one.
I completely wipe the entire underside where oil may have touched something, double check to ensure that there is no oil filter gasket remaining, inspect the under body and front end, replace the drain plug, install the new filter and add oil.
After the oil has been added, I start the vehicle and allow it to idle while I clean up my mess. While still on the ramps, I shut it down after I'm cleaned up and check for leaks. No leaks, I'm done.
30 minutes max.
Truth be told, I'm slowly getting out of the oil change business. I take my 2011 to the dealer every time.
As for my '04 Expy and 2010 Focus, I do them myself. I do pull up on the ramps and allow it to sit over night. In the morning, I remove the drain plug. While draining, I remove the old filter and prep the new one.
I completely wipe the entire underside where oil may have touched something, double check to ensure that there is no oil filter gasket remaining, inspect the under body and front end, replace the drain plug, install the new filter and add oil.
After the oil has been added, I start the vehicle and allow it to idle while I clean up my mess. While still on the ramps, I shut it down after I'm cleaned up and check for leaks. No leaks, I'm done.
30 minutes max.