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  #1  
Old 01-01-2013, 07:18 PM
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SES light and engine stumbling badly

I've been a lurker for a while, just joined a while back. I bought an '01 Excursion a few months ago and its had a miss at idle and part throttle the whole time. It isn't a hard miss just enough to feel. Front cylinder on driver's side has a significantly louder tick than others. No dash lights on until 2 days ago. Pulled out of driveway, drove couple hundred yards, SES light comes on-no change in engine. Couple hundred more yds and she starts missing bad enough to shake the truck, and has NO power, let off gas and she's missing hard at idle but doesn't die. Get turned around and it makes it back home, if I press the accelerator it just stumbles harder NO more power or acceleration.
Turn it off, come inside to research this. Go back out disconnect batts to reset SES, reconnect and she fires up like nothing is wrong! No SES. Drives fine, bomb around the neighborhood for 10 minutes or so, doesn't miss a beat (no more than since i bought it anyway). Bring it back home.
Y-day she fires up and SES comes on almost immediately, barely make it out of driveway before she starts stumbling.

The only things I've done recently is go back to stock air filter and housing, changed HPOP oil (used "drain/fill/run 10 minutes" 3x method), and plugged that sensor in the middle back of fuel filter (found it unplugged and judging from the crud in it had been that way for a while).

Will the UVCH cause intermittent issues like this? Seems like what I've been researching on the UVCH is its constant if loose. Would any of the sensors cause this? How can I test them without scanner? If anyone in SW Florida (Naples-Punta Gorda) has a code reader/diagnostic gizmo I could borrow/rent I'd greatly appreciate it. I drove this truck home from Memphis and have made several 200+ mile trips in addition to the normal daily stuff and this happens like someone threw a switch and when its not stumbling its just like its been since bought. So I'm assuming electrical,HELP!!!!
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Old 01-01-2013, 07:35 PM
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UVCH is the first place I would suspect. You can ohm the connections and see if you can figure it out that way, or check your codes because with the EX, you'll have glow plug codes for whichever side is having the issue.

UVCH can be an intermittent problem because it's just coming unplugged. As the temperature of the plug changes, it may make better or worse contact, so sometimes it works fine, other times it doesn't.
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Old 01-01-2013, 07:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F350-6 View Post
check your codes
This is why I asked if someone in my area has a reader. Can I make it display codes without a reader? I know some vehicles are capable of giving readouts in the digital odo screen, is my Ex one of those?
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Old 01-01-2013, 07:45 PM
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The free scans at the auto parts stores, or scans with cheap code readers will pick up glow plug codes, so getting a scan shouldn't be too hard.

You can use a multi-meter to check the connections yourself, or you can unplug one of the connectors when it's in it's rough running mode. If one connector being unplugged makes little or no difference, that's the problem side. If unplugging it causes the engine not to run at all, then it's the other side.

Have you lurked long enough to know about the 50 cent mod or the Ford shims to fix this issue?
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Old 01-01-2013, 07:50 PM
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I agree with F350, ohm out the UVCH for bad connections. You can also, simply look at the plug and see if there are any signs of burned connections. This would be the most likely area to check first.
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Old 01-01-2013, 09:19 PM
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Yes I've read about the quarter trick. Don't really have a clear idea of what exactly it entails but I figure it'll be apparent if I take her apart.

Would a Superchips 1705 be able to read these codes? I'm leery of trying to drive it to the auto parts store as there seems to be no rhyme nor reason for when it acts up. Don't I need to have the intercooler tube and intake tubes off to access the plug ins? Its as likely to fire up and behave as it is to act up.

This is only my 2nd electronic diesel, so I'm learning. Or trying to, anyway!
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Old 01-01-2013, 09:25 PM
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Would a loose connection make an injector louder?
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Old 01-01-2013, 09:58 PM
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I would pull the valve covers on this one and yes you need to pull the intercooler tubes to do this.

-You will need a 3/8 drive 11 mm socket with an extension to loosen the clamps.

-It's a 13 mm or 1/2 to pull the valve cover bolts.

It will take some time, but once the covers are off, you'll have this figured out in no time. Literally.
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Old 01-01-2013, 10:07 PM
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I truly hope the uvch is the issue. If so, what is the recommended place to buy replacements? I have NAPA, AZ, and AA closeby, and an oldschool parts house and stealership less than 30 min away.

The portion under the VCs is plug-n-play, correct? I saw another harness with a plug on one end and a wad of wires on the other. Does it require cutting and splicing the factory wiring? Boy that looks like fun, esp with a bad back and EVERYthing underhood being 4' from the fenders!
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Old 01-01-2013, 10:37 PM
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I got some replacements from O'reilly and they actually had a one piece VC gasket and harness. The connection will never break under the valve cover again. I was skeptical, but after seeing the design it was a good move...
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  #11  
Old 01-01-2013, 10:50 PM
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Dwayne Dotson
Sorry about the large print but that is what word does when I copy and paste. I typed this way too many times so I typed it up in word and I just copy and paste when someone needs it.

50 cent mod video here. It is not mine but good info.

How to do it written down from my post in another thread. The video above is not my video but is a great training tool.

For the 50 cent mod you will need two quarters, a short 13mm socket, deep 13mm socket and a universal or wobble short extension to get the back bolt on the drivers side and a few of the bottom bolts on the passenger side, a 13mm wrench and a long(6-8 inch) extension. Various wrenches and sockets for pulling harness connector and Intercooler boot clamps.
Only takes 20-25 minutes to pull the Turbo intake hoses and Turbo pipe(metal) on the driver's side. Be careful with the boots. Just be easy with them.
Don't pay too much attention to all the oil inside of the inlet tube and metal pipe as you can clean them any time IN THE FUTURE.
Right now focus on taking the valve cover off. I take out the stock filter and all the inlet tubing going to the turbo then I gently shove a not so good towel into the stock filter box AND lay a moving blanket( very thick folded over several times) over the battery and stock filter box so I can lay on it while I take the Valve cover bolts out. Be careful of the towel in the stock box for the sensor in that box. They are fragile. I am short so please laugh and work with me at the same time.
Unbolt the 42 pin electrical connector on top of the valve cover. If you have an air compressor, now is the time to blow any debris around the valve cover down out of the way.
Take a PICTURE or take note which fasteners are bolts and which ones are studs with a nut to mount something else to. You will want to put it back exactly as it was. Get the 13mm socket and a 13mm wrench.
DO NOT TAKE THE Positive Crankcase Vent or CrankCase Vent(CCV) DOGHOUSE OFF UNLESS YOU HAVE THE FOUR ORINGS TO RESEAL IT
4 Viton O-rings to reseal the Crank Case Vent cover
OR THE ORINGS WILL SWELL UP AND BE NO GOOD AND YOU WILL LEAK OIL ALL OVER THE PLACE UNTIL YOU GET THE NEW ORINGS.
Using the 13mm wrench carefully remove the bolt just above the CCV dog house and leave the CCV in place. You will not be able to use the socket with the CCV in the way. Now you can use that 13mm socket and take all the rest of the bolts out. The hardest one is on the rear of the cover and you can not see the bolt without a mirror. Don't worry about the mirror, just loosen it and place the bolts to the side. I use a 5 quart pail to put my fastners in. Slow down when you get the bolts loose and keep a tight grip on them unless you like fishing for metal in the pit of hell. I put a tarp under the truck for items I drop to easily find them.
When you pull the cover loose, be slow and easy so you don't put any debris in the VC area. If your harness connection is loose, very gently push the connector towards the top of the VC gasket and let the clips clip UPWARD into place. You could also unclip it and inspect for burnt connectors. Place the connector back firmly in place. Now take the quarter that you have shaved off right at the top of the hair line on the head and slide it in round side down and flat, cut side toward the TOP of the valve cover. DO NOT FORCE ANYTHING unless you have a fresh Benjamin Franklin laying around to spend on a new gasket/harness.
The clips should be clipped fully in and pushing up while the quarter holds the clips up. The flat spot gives the valve cover enough room to be installed and keeps the quarter from going anywhere.
If you want to you can now check the torque on the:
Lower injector hold down bolts at 120 INCH lbs.
Rocker arm bolts at 20 Foot lbs
Valve cover bolts when reinstalled will be 96 INCH lbs.
Verify all of the injector connectors are secured and clipped
Verify all of the glow plug wires are tight.
Do everything in the reverse order to put it all back together. Wipe the oil coated pipes down to remove any excess oil and start on the passenger side
Remove the intercooler pipe. You will figure out that you have to move it above the turbo to get it out. Lots of room above that turbo. I loosened my MAP sensor and tied it back with string or a small bungee.
Bungee cord the two heater pipes toward the passenger side fender. I put the Moving blanket on this side but did not lean on the A/C pipes. Same thing on this side except you have a bolt holding down the Engine Oil Dipstick so be careful with the dipstick. Only pull the dipstick high enough to remove it from the stud. The bolt near the AC compressor is tight but you can get to it with a few extensions and a deep socket. Same one as the oil dipstick. Note the stud positions again. Don't loose the heater hose clips because they are 28$ at the dealer. Loosen and remove the rest of the bolt/studs. Same thing as the driver's side from here.
Man, that is a lot of typing. Talking thru it is much less time consuming. LOL. Put a wrench in your hands and get to work. The sooner you get it done, the sooner you can drink that favorite cold beverage and relax that another inexpensive mod is done and you will feel better for not spending any money at the mechanic shop or Stealership
It might even run much better or have gained some power back. Same torque values as mentioned above. Be careful whilist VC's are open. If it rains you need to shut the hood all the way immediately after you remove the blanket and slowly slip the VC in place. I hope this helps and is not too mundane. I prefer air tools but you need to put it back together with regular rachet/wrench and get torque values correct.
Dwayne
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Dwayne Early 1999 F250 2WD Extended cab. 190k B.E.S.T. Map CCV re-route, 50 cent mod, EBPV delete w/ blank pedestal, Resistor installed, 6637 filter w/pete's cover, Used 38R and Intl Up pipes(thanks for the great deal and getting that clamp back on...Jason), billet Plenums, new boots and clamps, AE, Stancor style GPR $38 http://www.aerialequipmentparts.com/...586-105111.htm. Window tint, Hutch and Harpoon mod, Parts on bench: HPOP re-seal kit, ICP, IPR, CPS, FRx, 4 way heater hose valve for cold AC mod, .

Last edited by 1fixitman; 01-01-2013 at 10:54 PM. Reason: error
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Old 01-01-2013, 11:04 PM
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Dwayne Dotson
You will not need replacements unless you have burnt pins or connectors. Be sure to inspect with a bright light for burnt pins. If it looks burnt then they need to be replaced.
Where exactly are you located?
The valve cover gasket and Under Valve Cover Harness can be found here:
VALVE COVER GASKET 1999 - 2003 Ford 7.3L Diesel
Under Valve Cover Wiring Harness Genuine Ford Motorcraft UVC harness

You want to stay with OEM parts as much as you can on this truck. Some may argue with that but OEM last the longest and gives the best life, especially sensors. Diesel orings will have all of the orings when you choose to get leak free.
Dwayne
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Dwayne Early 1999 F250 2WD Extended cab. 190k B.E.S.T. Map CCV re-route, 50 cent mod, EBPV delete w/ blank pedestal, Resistor installed, 6637 filter w/pete's cover, Used 38R and Intl Up pipes(thanks for the great deal and getting that clamp back on...Jason), billet Plenums, new boots and clamps, AE, Stancor style GPR $38 http://www.aerialequipmentparts.com/...586-105111.htm. Window tint, Hutch and Harpoon mod, Parts on bench: HPOP re-seal kit, ICP, IPR, CPS, FRx, 4 way heater hose valve for cold AC mod, .
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Old 01-01-2013, 11:34 PM
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Here is another video for your viewing on the UVCH


Tim M
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Old 01-02-2013, 05:40 AM
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Contaminated 42-pin connector looks like this:

Click the image to open in full size.

Loose UVCH looks like this:

Click the image to open in full size.

Burnt pin looks like this:

Click the image to open in full size.

These were all found on one Excursion while the owner was on vacation.

You also need a 13mm deep socket for the stud bolts and an 8mm nut driver for the intake clamps. The passeneger-side VC on the Ex is a real bugger. Pickups have access through the wheel well... but not so much with the Ex. You want a 3/8" drive 13 mm "universal" or "flex" socket to get at the back VC bolts. Here's an example: [LINK]


While you're under the hood, check to make sure the IPR nut is secure on the IPR. Be careful, it's flimsy.

Click the image to open in full size.

Once everything is back together, you can confirm the connections to the injectors with a meter at the 42-pin connector.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click links in my signature, you'll find at least two of use.
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Old 01-02-2013, 06:57 AM
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Wow thanks guys. Due to my back I'm kinda slow spinning wrenches anymore. I'll report back on what I find and if I have anymore questions.
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Old 01-02-2013, 06:57 AM
 
 
 
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