2006 Hard Start<O</O
I noticed that my 2006 F350 Dually with a 6.0 diesel was running rough when I exited the expressway pulling my 5<SUP>th</SUP> wheel camper. I made it to the camp ground, got half way in my camp space, and the truck died. It would not restart. The camp ground owner took me to get 5 gallons of diesel. It took 45 min. The truck cranked a long time just trying to start till it finally fired up. I parked my rig, shut off my truck and it would not start again. I unplugged the icp sensor and the truck cranked a long time just trying to start like it did when I let it sit for 45 min, then it fired up. I have replaced the icp sensor and fuel filters. I suspect a high pressure oil leak. Maybe the STC, Dummy Plugs or Stand Pipes. The truck is getting harder to start. Now it will not start at all when it is hot. When I let it sit till it cools it will start after a long crank and slowly fires more and more till it fires up. Anybody have an idea where I need to start on fixing this hard/no start problem.<O></O>

 

The easier of the two would be the dummy rail plugs, since replacing them only requires valve cover removal to access and replace. The STC fitting requires turbo and high pressure oil pump removal which involves a fair bit more work, so I'd start with the simpler of the two. Even more so, is the fact that this is a 2006 model year, which is the exact year that has the tendency to fail these parts. Pay particular attention to the condition of the lower d-rings when you do remove the old dummy rail plugs if this is the route you choose.

 

air test to find high pressure leak

 

I don’t have the fitting to screw into my icp port at the moment to run an air test. This is the truck that I baby and use for long trips, so I want it to be reliable. Since the consensus is a high pressure oil leak, and the items I mentioned are known failure issues for this year, I’ll be replacing them all anyway while I have the truck down. Is there a real need to run an air test if I ‘m replacing these parts anyway? Also what other preventive measures should I take while I ‘m in this part of the engine? I have 85,000 miles on this truck.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>

 

An air test will pinpoint where all high pressure oil leaks are. If you are already intending on replacing those items mentioned above, an air test will only pinpoint any other additional leaks you have in conjunction which seems very unlikely by your description of the symptom you are getting.

 

Egr delete/block off if you dont have annual inspections, egr/oil coolers, blue fuel pressure spring, coolant filter, gauges. Exercise that turbo, when your truck is truly warmed up!

 

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Thanks to all that replied. I believe I have a game plan. I did a lot of research on this site and there was mention of injector o rings going bad. Should I replace these as a preventative measure also? Or, should I take the stance if it’s not broken don’t fix it. My search for parts took me to Innovative Performance research (IP Research) for all my parts. Is this company known for good parts? Are there any misc. items I may need to complete this job before I tear it down?<o></o>
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I will tackle under the valve covers first with the Stand Pipes and Dummy Plugs and see if these curses the problem, then proceed to the STC fitting and other items under the turbo.<o></o>

 

I'll assume you mean "cures" your problem.

If you are referring to the actual injector o-ring kits themselves, you won't be doing anything other than a lot more work for absolutely ZERO gain. The only time you change out a set of injector o-rings is/are when injector(s) is/are removed and re-installed for whatever reason requires it.

 

I prefer OEM stuff and like using tousley ford parts where I can.

 

Thanks again to everyone for the help. And I did mean CURES, it’s me doing the cursing ha ha. I just read a thread started by troutfly1 back in Sept. He basically had the same problem as I. And, other than the stc, if it’s not broke don.t fix it.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
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I’ve worked on my 04 6.0 and my 94 7.3 and this forum has allowed me to make my repairs with confidence that I ‘me doing the repair right. If I have a problem with this repair I’ll be back, If not you’ll know I got the repair right. <o></o>

 

O K, I replaced my dummy plugs, stand pipes and STC fitting.Inspecting these parts thoroughly as I replaced them, I could see no damage.Evan the STC fitting was in good shape. I still have the same problem. Not enough oil psi to start the engine hot with ICP plugged in. I have Auto Ingenuity,here are some readings. ICP while cranking hot; up to 462 then down to thehundreds. IPR% 84.77. The rest of the readings are:

------------------KOEO ----------- Low Idle ------------ High Idle

ICP V.---------- = .25-------- = 0.79 / 0.89 -------- = 1.55 / 1.60

ICP Pr.---------- = 0 -----------= 546/ 605---------- = 1260 / 1285

IPR% ---------- =14.84 ------ = 22.66 / 25.78 ----- - = 39.45

FICM MP ------ = 48 --------- = 40.00 / 47.00 -------- = 40.00 / 42.00

FICM LP ------- =11.50 ------ -= 13.50 -------------- = 13.50

FICM VP ------- = 12.00------- = 14.00+-------------- = 14.00

My understanding is these parts would’ve gone bad eventuallyanyway, so I don’t fill that bad about replacing them. But, it did not fix the problem. What’s next.
I know the FICM is going bad, but could it cause the icp not to show enough psi to start the engine?

 

Your FICM is a problem the FICM volts should never go below 45, its time to send your FICM to Ed at FICMrepair.com

 

Did you tighten the replacement one piece branch tube connector to the proper specs?

 

Thats a scary Question. I did not use a torque wrench to tighten the updated connection to the HPOP. I do know i went past the torque spec. by the amount of a** i put on it while it was in the vice. I'll guess around 50 to 55 ft lbs. I'm venturing to say this is not the problem since the stc fitting i replaced was tight and in good shape. And i'm having exactly the same problem as before i did anything. At least i want to check out other options before i go in that deep again. The last thing i want to do is tear this thing apart again just to re-torqe the fitting and still have the same problem.

 

yes a ficm can cause that if its causing the spool valves to hang open.
have you disconnected the icp sensor yet and retested to see if it starts hot?
is the screen on the ipr damaged in anyway?
have you air tested each bank to make sure you dont have an injector o-ring leaking?