my 1977 F150 4x4 build... how we do it down under
#91
From my experience in circuit racing in open wheelers, I believe that driving style dictates about 70% of what you break, the rest is luck. My old man and I drove the same car in different seasons. Every season we started with fresh everything in the trans axle. Throughout one season, the old man went through four axle shafts and about five gear ratio sets. In one season in the same car, same track but me piloting, I didn't break anything for the whole year. A lot gentler on the car and ran roughly the same track times as him when he ran.
Sorry to go off on a tangent about something other than trucks, but I believe the same logic would apply offroad as on the blacktop.
Sorry to go off on a tangent about something other than trucks, but I believe the same logic would apply offroad as on the blacktop.
#92
#93
Stock Dana 44's bring the suck!! Believe me I had my fair share of snapping them. Closed knuckles are drum brakes,even more gay.
Ausie Trucker, beef it to chromoly,invest in either Yukon super joints or ctms and drive it hard but not crazy and back off when wheels hop and you should have pretty good luck. You may want to consider drive flanges over hubs but that sounds like its too late.
Driving style will make shafts last and keep it unlocked when not needed. Also avoid gassing hard when tires are on a tight turn,hard on ujoints.
Ausie Trucker, beef it to chromoly,invest in either Yukon super joints or ctms and drive it hard but not crazy and back off when wheels hop and you should have pretty good luck. You may want to consider drive flanges over hubs but that sounds like its too late.
Driving style will make shafts last and keep it unlocked when not needed. Also avoid gassing hard when tires are on a tight turn,hard on ujoints.
That's pretty much what I wanted AND needed to hear lol
Its not too late to purchase drive flanges, I can always put the warn hubs on my 81 bronco which unfortunately still has the gay TTB.
#96
if that's what you wanted to hear maybe you should have asked more directly, something like, "I want to hear a 60 is better than a 44"...
Front 60's are around... there was one for sale in western sydney last week. $1200 incl front springs....bargain and sold...
Front 60's are around... there was one for sale in western sydney last week. $1200 incl front springs....bargain and sold...
#97
#98
NW150
The front coil springs are 500mm long installed but the truck is jacked up sort of unevenly at the front. I'll have to adjust that on the weekend and get back to you.
Robert, I know a 60 freely poops over the 44, I just haven't been lucky enough to come across any for a reasonable price in WA. The way I see it, is the money I'm spending on my 44 isn't entirely going to waste, as I'll likely swap it into my bronco when I come across something better for the F150.
73 ford guy,
I'm looking at the Solid drive slugs from bronco graveyard, looks like its only four cap screws and a circlip to remove it. I won't commit to buying them though until after I've test driven the truck and actually seen what kind of driving I'm likely to do in it.
The front coil springs are 500mm long installed but the truck is jacked up sort of unevenly at the front. I'll have to adjust that on the weekend and get back to you.
Robert, I know a 60 freely poops over the 44, I just haven't been lucky enough to come across any for a reasonable price in WA. The way I see it, is the money I'm spending on my 44 isn't entirely going to waste, as I'll likely swap it into my bronco when I come across something better for the F150.
73 ford guy,
I'm looking at the Solid drive slugs from bronco graveyard, looks like its only four cap screws and a circlip to remove it. I won't commit to buying them though until after I've test driven the truck and actually seen what kind of driving I'm likely to do in it.
#99
Thanks! This truck has been getting work done in one form or another for the last four years, and probably will never actually end. I'd like to think I've saved a lot*of money by doing all the work myself (mechanic and engineer by trade), but I'm too scared to actually count what I've spent on parts lol. Its been a huge learning experience too.
#100
#102
You know I just pulled my inner axle I broke on my 60 and checked out hub. The inner axle is twisted,ujoint sheared, but hub actually survived!
My local 4x4 shop also thinks even mile markers are better then warn next to yukons then dynatracs.
If I did it again I'd go with Yukons. When/if they fail they go to the lock position
I'd give your warns a shot
My local 4x4 shop also thinks even mile markers are better then warn next to yukons then dynatracs.
If I did it again I'd go with Yukons. When/if they fail they go to the lock position
I'd give your warns a shot
#104
I would really consider top quality ujoints though, but jeez if you could find a d60, $ on the d44 can only get it so strong. Money doesn't grow on trees and 300M joints can be around $200 each!
If a stock joint fails it could then have inner shaft spinning and take out both ears on axles.
Breaking a hub doesn't do that.
If a stock joint fails it could then have inner shaft spinning and take out both ears on axles.
Breaking a hub doesn't do that.
#105
http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product...ir_Dana44_78yr
I'm looking at these right now. Or are the yukons the way to go?
I'm looking at these right now. Or are the yukons the way to go?