Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Diesel > Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L) Diesel Topics Only

Welcome to Ford-Trucks Forums!
Welcome to Ford-Trucks.com.

You are currently viewing our forums as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join the Ford-Trucks Forums community today!





 
Reply
 
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 12-29-2012, 06:55 AM
Eallend7's Avatar
Eallend7 Eallend7 is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 687
Eallend7 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Crank Seal

Well i just ordered my new crank seal, or rear main seal, i suppose same difference. Mine lookes to be leaky from what i can see and i forgot to order it with my clutch kit
So now it's coming seperate. I ordered a Timken sleeve and seal. even though there was a fel- pro which has the V shaped gasket above the rear main AND the rear main seal for cheaper, but the seal and sleeve looked to be seperate.
That and there appears to be on the plate holding that V shaped gasket on, a bolt that has rusted and NO socket or wrench seems to fit :P haha
Anyways, the V part doesn't seem to be leaking so would that be fine just leaving it? theres nowhere i can find just the V shaped gasket from what i see, whats that called anyways?
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 12-29-2012, 09:24 AM
fellro86's Avatar
fellro86 fellro86 is offline
Iowa Benevolent Dictator
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Marengo, Iowa
Posts: 11,573
fellro86 has much to be proud offellro86 has much to be proud offellro86 has much to be proud offellro86 has much to be proud offellro86 has much to be proud offellro86 has much to be proud offellro86 has much to be proud offellro86 has much to be proud of
The main trick is getting the old one out and the new one in. It is not all that easy to get the seal lip on the crank and drive on as well.
__________________
the workhorse:86 F250 4x4 6.9 Diesel 4-spd, 4.10 axles
the other workhorse 92 F350 2wd crew cab,3.55 rear axle, 92 6bt Cummins, NV4500
the project: 78 F150 4x4 shortbed 351 auto
Iowa Chapter leader, ASE certified parts specialist
Come on down and join us in the Iowa chapter, or your own local chapter!! Thanks, Roger
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 12-29-2012, 05:00 PM
Eallend7's Avatar
Eallend7 Eallend7 is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 687
Eallend7 is starting off with a positive reputation.
so really you just have to fannagle it out with a flat head? no real other way to do it? and then any tips for driving the new one back in?
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 12-29-2012, 05:35 PM
joshofalltrades joshofalltrades is offline
Postmaster
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,514
joshofalltrades has a good reputation on FTE.joshofalltrades has a good reputation on FTE.
while i haven't removed the rear main from one of our trucks, a common trick i've used on various applications is to drill a small hole in the side of the seal, in the metal part, then drive a sheet metal screw into that hole, and use the screw as a handle to pull it out with vise grips or a prybar. just be careful to keep your screw away from the surface of the crank.
driving the new one in can be done using a large socket if you can find one big enough to go around the shaft and press on the outer of the seal (good luck with that), or by using a 1/2" drive extension as a drift punch with a small hammer, and work your way around the seal, driving it as straight as you can.
as you probably know, you'll want to lubricate the seal before installing it. i use grease, others use engine oil, but just make sure it has something on there so you don't burn out the seal in the first 5 seconds of running.
__________________
josh
my van, 87 e350, 6.9 NA, c6, 3.55s with a powertrax locker. built out with toolboxes and onboard 120v power and compressed air powered by twin 3g alternators
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 12-29-2012, 06:10 PM
fellro86's Avatar
fellro86 fellro86 is offline
Iowa Benevolent Dictator
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Marengo, Iowa
Posts: 11,573
fellro86 has much to be proud offellro86 has much to be proud offellro86 has much to be proud offellro86 has much to be proud offellro86 has much to be proud offellro86 has much to be proud offellro86 has much to be proud offellro86 has much to be proud of
The socket trick won't work unless you have some massive sockets... the crank on these is quite large at the back. Getting it out isn't nearly as bad as going on. It was tricky enough having the housing removed. I think I gave in and removed the housing as it was not going well otherwise, and I am far from a newbie doing this kind of thing.
__________________
the workhorse:86 F250 4x4 6.9 Diesel 4-spd, 4.10 axles
the other workhorse 92 F350 2wd crew cab,3.55 rear axle, 92 6bt Cummins, NV4500
the project: 78 F150 4x4 shortbed 351 auto
Iowa Chapter leader, ASE certified parts specialist
Come on down and join us in the Iowa chapter, or your own local chapter!! Thanks, Roger
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 12-29-2012, 07:13 PM
Eallend7's Avatar
Eallend7 Eallend7 is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 687
Eallend7 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by fellro86 View Post
The socket trick won't work unless you have some massive sockets... the crank on these is quite large at the back. Getting it out isn't nearly as bad as going on. It was tricky enough having the housing removed. I think I gave in and removed the housing as it was not going well otherwise, and I am far from a newbie doing this kind of thing.
Ah. crap. Guess i'll give that mystery bolt another go, take the housing off, and hope for the best on it's gasket, maybe but some sealant on before i reinstall the housing? Didn't order the rear main kit with the housing gasket
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 12-30-2012, 02:59 PM
tecgod13 tecgod13 is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Western Mass
Posts: 2,270
tecgod13 is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
I did mine without touching the housing. I think I used a couple sheet metal screws. If you put 2 opposite from each other and use 2 prybars or the like it shouldn't be too bad to pop it out.

The Ford OEM replacement seal/sleeve kit I ordered when I did the job came with a cheap plastic driver tool. It really didn't work all the well though. Not sure which kit you got, but maybe you'll be lucky. If not, take your time working it in. You may be able to get pipe fitting from a box store thats close enough to the right size to work. Even if its just a section of pipe an inch or so long of the right diameter, and then you put a board across the back and drive it in that way.
__________________
1988 F250, 7.3L IDI, regular cab, long bed, 5spd ZF
Mods: ATS turbo, 3.5 inch exhaust, superduty springs front and rear, 4 gauge A-pillar pod: boost, pyro, coolant and 4th spot is switches; was 2wd, now 4wd with Dana 60 front axle
next projects: fix/complete the 3.5 inch exhaust (tailpipe exits waaaaaay to low, and needs to be extended out from under the bed) swap to a rust free cab
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 01-01-2013, 12:14 PM
Eallend7's Avatar
Eallend7 Eallend7 is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 687
Eallend7 is starting off with a positive reputation.
I had to take the housing off.
Tried some self tapping screws in the sleeve and pulling and prying just the seal but it wouldn't budge, so i unbolted the housing and pryed and it popped off. the housing seal is SHOT though... great. So i'll have to order YET ANOTHER seal and wait on it.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 01-01-2013, 10:10 PM
speedwrench72's Avatar
speedwrench72 speedwrench72 is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: western washington
Posts: 689
speedwrench72 is starting off with a positive reputation.
A birdy told me that the fly wheel bolts need some sealent onthem as oil can leak down the threds giving the impression that rear main is leaking again...???mabey u herd this story...
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 01-02-2013, 04:41 AM
Eallend7's Avatar
Eallend7 Eallend7 is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 687
Eallend7 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Sealant on the bolts? like what kind? and nah no oil had run over my flywheel, all around the seal. you mean like loctite?
Also guys ordered JUST the rear main from rockauto hoping i wouldn't have to take the housing off, ended up having to take the housing off of course and the housing gasket is shot, half came off with it and the other half stayed, anyone think the ford dealership would have just the housing gasket? if not i'll have to send my rear main back and order a kit with both...
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 01-02-2013, 06:15 PM
Eallend7's Avatar
Eallend7 Eallend7 is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 687
Eallend7 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Okay guys So got another question, on the BOTTOM of the crank housing, where it's rounded and meets the oil pan gasket, that would be part of the oil pan gasket according to the dealership. and in their diagram it lists liquid gasket. But theres no way im pulling the engine to put a whole new gasket on the oil pan, what would you guys recommend? clear out all the old gasket from the rounded area and coat it thick with sealant?
What kind? etc? also any sealnt on the flywheel bolts? or loctite? any loctite on the pressure plate?
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 01-02-2013, 08:26 PM
Eallend7's Avatar
Eallend7 Eallend7 is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 687
Eallend7 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Anyone got any suggestions?
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 01-02-2013, 08:27 PM
fellro86's Avatar
fellro86 fellro86 is offline
Iowa Benevolent Dictator
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Marengo, Iowa
Posts: 11,573
fellro86 has much to be proud offellro86 has much to be proud offellro86 has much to be proud offellro86 has much to be proud offellro86 has much to be proud offellro86 has much to be proud offellro86 has much to be proud offellro86 has much to be proud of
Silicone from the factory. Don't skimp on the silicone either, use the gasketing black. I pretty much refuse to use the blue for anything any more, generally worthless. No need to disturb the whole pan, just do that area where the housing meets the pan.You can use some loctites for sealant. If you do use thread locker on the pressure plate bolts, be sure to use a grade that does not require heat to release. The blue usually is the one you want, the red is the heat release type.
__________________
the workhorse:86 F250 4x4 6.9 Diesel 4-spd, 4.10 axles
the other workhorse 92 F350 2wd crew cab,3.55 rear axle, 92 6bt Cummins, NV4500
the project: 78 F150 4x4 shortbed 351 auto
Iowa Chapter leader, ASE certified parts specialist
Come on down and join us in the Iowa chapter, or your own local chapter!! Thanks, Roger
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 01-03-2013, 04:58 AM
Eallend7's Avatar
Eallend7 Eallend7 is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 687
Eallend7 is starting off with a positive reputation.
So just the RTV black in the black tube? and lots of it?
Very informative fellro
Thanks a bunch man!
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 01-03-2013, 04:59 AM
Eallend7's Avatar
Eallend7 Eallend7 is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 687
Eallend7 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Double post!
Does anyone know if the clutch inspection plate NEEDS a gasket? I mean i wouldn't THINK so, but it had one when i took it off and of course it ripped when i took it off, but it was like a cardboard gasket, paper like. anyone know? Just slap some sealant on it and put her back on?
Reply With Quote
Old 01-03-2013, 04:59 AM
 
 
 
Reply

Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Diesel > Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Installation of a "Speedi Sleeve" on a 351W Reed Small Block V8 (221, 260, 289, 5.0/302, 5.8/351W) 11 07-12-2013 02:51 AM
Main Seal question diablodude64 Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L) 6 03-19-2012 08:58 AM
sleeve for fuel line bio short bus 1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel 2 11-20-2011 09:36 PM
main seal repair sleeve install? rolape2 Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L) 8 11-17-2011 01:44 PM
5.8 Rear Main Seal Leak seth99max 1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1 12-09-2009 02:09 AM



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:47 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7 AC1
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Statement - Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.

vbulletin Admin Backup