I have a 97 F250 and it won't start.... it cranks great, wts light won't come on, replaced cam shaft position sensor, number 22 fuse is good,... anyone have any ideas? Please help!!!

Thank you!

 

Found the problem! Started up! Yay!

 

You said you found the problem. What exactly was the problem and what did you do to fix it? Thanks.

 

Um, it's kind of embarrassing.... I didn't do it, my roommate was looking at it for me and said he checked fuse #22. I asked him to double check it and I went out and watched him check it. He read the fuse chart wrong, and was checking the wrong fuse. Fuse 22 was out . We put a new fuse in and it started right up. It starts a little hard but has always started a little hard since I got it.

 

Ok, so after we got it running, it ran about a day, and now it won't start again, it keeps blowing the #22 fuse, any ideas why? We replaced the "PCM" (I think its what it is called). I blew two #22 fuses this morning trying to start it (I tried to switch the relay for horn and IDM like was suggested in a previous message).... .

Thank Jessica

 

What does fuse 22 feed.
Think that circuit is where you might look?
If it blew the first time, something caused it.
Good luck.

 

Distributor pickup (Gas Engine)
Fuel line heater (Diesel)
Glow plug controller (Diesel)
Ignition coil (Gas Engine)
Powertrain control system relay coil
Thick film integrated (TFI) module (Gas engine)

 

For the applications that apply, each need to be tested for current draw that is excessive.
Since the combination of those that do apply for the sum total, one is faulty and takeing the currernt to the fuse limit and causing the fuse to fail.
Any fuse passing current at it design limit will fail over time.
Throwing parts at it is a guessing game to get lucky and is costly.
Better to do testing and find the fault.
Sorry it's not simpler.
Good luck.

 

My dad taught me how to change my oil and on a gas change the spark plugs and distributor cap... with that being said how do I test them? :$

 

Well, you need to know where the parts are.
You need some information to reference for testing them.
You need a volt meter with current and resistance ranges to measue with.
At this point your out of luck without the means to do the testing.
The problem is simple but finding it takes all the work.
Good luck.

 

OK thank you.

 

I'd probably test the fuel line heater circuit first for blowing #22 fuse. Unless the relay or circuit has a short, the #22 fuse is also the power for the glow plug relay coil pull-in with the pcm controlling the circuit ground.

 

This guy is right a huge percentage of the time. Had a 97 stroke for years, huge regrets selling it. Hands down it was the best truck I have had. The fuel heater circuit is 99.9% of the reason 22 blows. The connector for the heater is the lowest connector on the drivers side of the fuel filter bowl. It may be needed if you run bio, WVO, or live is Al, but you don't need it south of Canada. If you are really wanting it you can pull the filter off and look in the bottom of the bowl. You can see the heater, it is a disc with a soldered wire on it. The
solder joints come loose, fix them if you are feeling spry, just unplug it if not.

 

Moved to correct forum.

 

Got it running again, the wire in the fuel bowl was loose, took the heater out and she started right up! YAY!! Hopefully that was all that was wrong and she'll keep running! Thanks for all you help!