Hi everyone.. first post here. Wanted some expert advice on the 7.3. I know it has a pretty good reputation, and I'm going to be looking at a '96 F250 4x4 with one in it.

Some info on the truck I'm gunna be looking at:
234k miles - is this something to be worried about?? I'll ask for maintenance records etc. but is there anything specific I should look for?
Brand new E4OD tranny
New paint, breaks, 5" exhaust, K&N CAI, new tires, alternator, batteries, rear tank, fuel senders, brake lines, tranny lines, and some other stuff.
I live in MA, looks like they went completely through and basically restored it. No rust/rot.

Guy is asking around $6.5k (or best off) for it. It'd be my first diesel, so I just wanted to know what to look for. My dad will be with me (diesel owner, knows everything I'm asking you guys I bet but I wanna go in with some knowledge haha). I know I won't be able to know for sure until I actually see/drive this, but I want to be prepared. I'm a student.. graduating from college in May. If I'm going to drop 6 grand on a truck I don't want to be running into an endless money pit!! I know my Dad wouldn't let me buy a piece of junk, but I want to show I've done my homework haha.

Thanks in advance!! Merry Christmas & Happy Holidays. I'll be checking back later!!

 

K&N filters can dust the turbo... pull the tube going to the turbo and look at the vanes... if they look sand blasted you will eventually need to replace it.

Someone will be by shortly to post the checklist....

Richard

 

Thanks Richard! Didn't know that... I've had the K&N CAI on gas engines before and they were pretty good, but I wasn't aware of that! Good to know. Thanks again for the quick response.

 

Welcome to FTE!

Thing to look for when buying a used powerstroke

Turbo:
You might take the air tube off the back of the air filter and look inside of it. If there is dirt build up, that is a very bad sign, so are the turbo fins looking sand blasted or bent. A little oily film is normal since the valve cover breather exits inside the tube.

Airbox:
Check the two bolts holding down the airbox lid. If they are plastic with a square recess, it is a recalled part. The recall is expired, but without the updated lid the risk of dirt infiltration is greater, the lid was updated with more supports and the updated bolts are metal with a straight slot. If it is the old style, you spend around $80 to update it.

Tranny:
If you buy a truck with an auto tranny, finding out if it's been maintained is essential, as the E4OD is an expensive transmission. Also, (if auto) seeing if the truck has an auxiliary transmission cooler would be worthwhile. For sticks, listen for clunking when shutting off or small vibration while operating. It could be an indication of a dual mass flywheel going out. Many have replaced them with single mass units.

Rear Gear Ratio:
4:10 will pull better, get slightly lower mpg�s and run a higher RPM compared to 3:55.

Coolant:
Ask the previous owner about the coolant - have they been adding FW16 or DCA4 to keep a proper SCA level? It is very important for stopping cavitation. You can get test strips to check the SCA level from NAPA, International, or Ford. I would test the current condition while looking over the truck, the SCA level should be between 1.5 and 3.0. Also, see if it has a block heater (it was an option on 97's).

Front end:
Check the front end for wear, or have an alignment shop check out the ball joints and steering linkage (tie rod ends). If they are shot, it is spendy (all four tie rods are around $400 just for parts, ball joint labor is also very spendy)

Oil:
The questions to ask are how often the oil was changed (at least every 5,000) and what kind of oil they used (diesel rated)? An oil analysis could tell you if there might be an engine problem or not.

Aftermarket stuff:
Seeing if the truck has got an aftermarket downpipe would be nice, a chip, or gauges (pyrometer, trans temp, etc.). Ask about any added items and who installed them.

Glow Plugs/Relay:
Find out if the glow plugs are in good working condition as well as the relay. Ask if either has been changed and when. You can check the glow plug resistance through the valve cover connector if needed (http://forums.ford-diesel.com/cgi-bi...&f=21&t=005210), and the relay should have power to both large terminals on top when the key is turned on, and one of the terminals should go out before ~2 minutes.

Injector o-rings:
The injector O-rings have been known to be a problem. The new o-ring sets have a pink middle seal. If the truck has an o-ring problem, one of the signs can be a discoloration of the fuel in the filter bowl. There is a drain on the passenger side front of the filter bowl for draining water (the filter is also the water separator) and you can catch some of the drained fuel in a jar � it should be dingy yellow and not blue or dark.

Leaks and Drips:
You can check the valley between the heads of the V8 for moisture and/or fluid. It should be dry not wet. Most leaks will run through this valley and down the back of the motor dripping off by the tranny/engine coupling.

VIN number:
If you take the VIN to any dealer, they can tell you when it was built, when it went into service, and some of the work that might have been done on it. You can also run prospective VIN's through Carfax.com to see the title history.

 

All of the above is good stuff. 234k isn't bad for these trucks. 350+ is a more than common achievement for these.

 

see...i told you someone would stop by with that list...\

Richard

 

Thanks all. I searched around a bit also and it seems there are some people who swear by their high-mileage 7.3's (even when neglected). Little confidence booster going into this! Thanks a lot for all the useful info.

 

i would try to get this truck for much less then 6500 with those miles. just my opinion, regular cab or what? your are better off with a 350, solid axle! i do not think you should go into your first obs or any diesel thinking you should get one not taken care of, but these are great trucks if you ask me... i have 2, both manual 350's.. if i was gonna get an auto i would be ready to put 3-4k into the the tranny first thing.. just my opinion... i know you can get excited when your looking for a vehicle, just try to step back make sure you do your research and get something that is going to treat you right and fullfill your needs! if your dad is a diesel guy dont let your feelings get the best of you and listen to his insight.. i know it can be hard.. but try to listen... lol... anyways best of luck.. if you get the truck or another obs come back here, you will learn more then you can imagine!!

 

I was in your position a little over a year ago. Like you Im still in school going for my Paramedic and Fire 2. I was able bought a 97 F250 4x4 EC for 5,250. The truck had only 200K on it. So Hell I though it was a good deal. Bad news though was that the previous owners were not as truthfull as tey said. I ended up dropping 3500 to build the trans the right way almost immediatly due to codes being thrown. I did purchase and install gauges, chip, intake, and exhaust which is nice. But im still dealing with gpr/glow plug problems. So what Im saying is that the price your looking at seems high. Dont be one of those people who get suckered into paying more than they should and just understand that this truck isnt new. So no matter whay the owner promises you, your going to be replacing something in the future.

 

Yup, no matter what, things need fixing.

 

Yeah, I'm definitely going to talk him down on the price. Never paid the asking price for any truck I've had haha. The tranny is brand new with 2 miles on it, hopefully he has the paperwork and everything on it so I don't run into that same problem as you. The truck has been up for a month (hopefully that isn't because of something bad!) but I won't know till I see it in person.

Someone also asked above... It is a regular cab.

Thanks for all the help everyone!

 

He sure as hell better have the paperwork for 2 miles on a new transmission... Don't be fooled though...I bought my truck thinking I got a good deal.... I did get it for a good price...but got one hell of a lemon truck.

 

Where are you purchasing this truck from? Because if its a Rust-belt truck, do not be surprised to have the rear wheel wells rusted out.

And, either way post some pics of the truck so guys on here can give you their honest opinion on what you should pay.

 

I don't think 6500 is bad for the truck myself. I would try to get it down to 6000 thought. There is absolutely nothing bad about the OBS in a f250 if its been properly maintained. I would check into the new trans and see if it has an updated valve body and torque converter. If its a jasper trans then it does have the upgrades already and your good to go.

 

6500 for a reg cab? Um...nope...5 max IF its absolutely perfect.check the rear wheel arches,fender lowers,cab corners for body mud...I gave 6 for a cc 350 4x from my best friend and knew 6years of history...and still dumped a wheel barrow of cash,parts,time into it.I love my truck and would do it again in a minute. But these trucks are getting older and are gonna always need something done. I will come up with a hit list of to do's...by the time I'm done with those I have developed another list to save for.BUT I trust my truck and it is driving about as nice as I could ever imagine .