Need help ASAP.
#18
12-25-2012, 06:15 AM
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
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welcome to FTE.
the guys all gave good advice.
add a pyrometer before sending the computer to DP, or putting a chip in it.
as for the hard starting and white smoke on cold starts, it sounds like the glow plugs are not working properly. first check the glow plug relay. if that is good, it may need glow plugs. motorcraft ZD-11's only for that engine. any other brand will only cause massive problems down the road.
the guys all gave good advice.
add a pyrometer before sending the computer to DP, or putting a chip in it.
as for the hard starting and white smoke on cold starts, it sounds like the glow plugs are not working properly. first check the glow plug relay. if that is good, it may need glow plugs. motorcraft ZD-11's only for that engine. any other brand will only cause massive problems down the road.
#19
12-25-2012, 10:13 AM
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Once again thanks every one. I am working part of the day today but got started early this morning. Was able to clean up some of the oil and mud coating the engine and flush the oil (2<SUP>nd</SUP> time). I also pulled the old rubber mats out of the bed and started to clean the mud, soda cans, dip bottles, and god knows what else out of the bed. I didn’t want to drive it without the fuel screen but needed to get it down to the shop to drain the fluids. I plan on ordering a new screen kit and the CPS first thing when the shops open on Tuesday.
#20
12-25-2012, 12:35 PM
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So after cleaning the oil and mud out of the engine bay the fuel filter lights is coming on.
Also is there any way to trouble shoot the CPS. I remember from my Renix 4.0 you could use a ohm or output voltage test to diagnose the bad Crank position sensor (basically the same type of sensor). I pulled mine out today and other then a little oil on it she looked clean.
About to wash her for the first time in god knows how long. I will take some pics after.
Also is there any way to trouble shoot the CPS. I remember from my Renix 4.0 you could use a ohm or output voltage test to diagnose the bad Crank position sensor (basically the same type of sensor). I pulled mine out today and other then a little oil on it she looked clean.
About to wash her for the first time in god knows how long. I will take some pics after.
#23
12-25-2012, 05:33 PM
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
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#26
12-27-2012, 10:34 AM
#27
12-27-2012, 10:36 AM
#28
12-27-2012, 10:45 AM
Post Fiend
First off, how about a warm WELCOME TO FTE!!!
1: for the cold hard start, try plugging in the block heater overnight and see how it starts. Based off the info you gave, it sounds like an issue with the glow plugs or glow plug relay. If you turn the key to the on position, you should hear a loud click under the hood and the battery voltage should drop down, let it sit that way for about two minutes and you should hear the click again and voltage will come back up. If it does that, the glow plug relay should be working properly. If the GPR is working and the truck starts fine with the block heater, I would pull the valve covers, replace the glow plugs and check the UVCHs (under valve cover harnesses) while your in there. They have a tendancy to melt the connector at the glow plug pins when the glow plugs are dead and drawing too much load and heating up the pins. If any connectors appear melted, change them while your under there.
2: The stumbling while driving sounds like the CPS (cam position sensor). I usually have a spare one laying around to try when stuff like this comes up, but next time you start or crank the engine, watch the tach. The tach should register RPMs while cranking. If it does not, that points to a CPS problem.
3: The valve cover gaskets rarely leak on these engines unless there is a loose or missing valve cover bolt. I wouldn't replace them unless they are damaged. If you do replace them, use Ford gaskets rather than parts store gaskets. IIRC I just paid $100 for one valve cover gasket from Ford, so unless they are damaged, run 'em.
4: The K&N open element is better than a broken air box, so obviously it's better to run that than the busted stock box. I would at some point try to get a 6637 filter kit from Riff Raff though once you get the truck starting and running like it should. I just don't trust an air filter that I can see pinholes of daylight through. LOL
On another note, the truck looks like it's in pretty nice shape. Looks like he got a good deal on it and it should make him a great truck. Get some nice factory Alcoa wheels on it to finish it off.
1: for the cold hard start, try plugging in the block heater overnight and see how it starts. Based off the info you gave, it sounds like an issue with the glow plugs or glow plug relay. If you turn the key to the on position, you should hear a loud click under the hood and the battery voltage should drop down, let it sit that way for about two minutes and you should hear the click again and voltage will come back up. If it does that, the glow plug relay should be working properly. If the GPR is working and the truck starts fine with the block heater, I would pull the valve covers, replace the glow plugs and check the UVCHs (under valve cover harnesses) while your in there. They have a tendancy to melt the connector at the glow plug pins when the glow plugs are dead and drawing too much load and heating up the pins. If any connectors appear melted, change them while your under there.
2: The stumbling while driving sounds like the CPS (cam position sensor). I usually have a spare one laying around to try when stuff like this comes up, but next time you start or crank the engine, watch the tach. The tach should register RPMs while cranking. If it does not, that points to a CPS problem.
3: The valve cover gaskets rarely leak on these engines unless there is a loose or missing valve cover bolt. I wouldn't replace them unless they are damaged. If you do replace them, use Ford gaskets rather than parts store gaskets. IIRC I just paid $100 for one valve cover gasket from Ford, so unless they are damaged, run 'em.
4: The K&N open element is better than a broken air box, so obviously it's better to run that than the busted stock box. I would at some point try to get a 6637 filter kit from Riff Raff though once you get the truck starting and running like it should. I just don't trust an air filter that I can see pinholes of daylight through. LOL
On another note, the truck looks like it's in pretty nice shape. Looks like he got a good deal on it and it should make him a great truck. Get some nice factory Alcoa wheels on it to finish it off.
#30
12-27-2012, 11:08 AM
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First off, how about a warm WELCOME TO FTE!!!
1: for the cold hard start, try plugging in the block heater overnight and see how it starts. Based off the info you gave, it sounds like an issue with the glow plugs or glow plug relay. If you turn the key to the on position, you should hear a loud click under the hood and the battery voltage should drop down, let it sit that way for about two minutes and you should hear the click again and voltage will come back up. If it does that, the glow plug relay should be working properly. If the GPR is working and the truck starts fine with the block heater, I would pull the valve covers, replace the glow plugs and check the UVCHs (under valve cover harnesses) while your in there. They have a tendancy to melt the connector at the glow plug pins when the glow plugs are dead and drawing too much load and heating up the pins. If any connectors appear melted, change them while your under there.
2: The stumbling while driving sounds like the CPS (cam position sensor). I usually have a spare one laying around to try when stuff like this comes up, but next time you start or crank the engine, watch the tach. The tach should register RPMs while cranking. If it does not, that points to a CPS problem.
3: The valve cover gaskets rarely leak on these engines unless there is a loose or missing valve cover bolt. I wouldn't replace them unless they are damaged. If you do replace them, use Ford gaskets rather than parts store gaskets. IIRC I just paid $100 for one valve cover gasket from Ford, so unless they are damaged, run 'em.
4: The K&N open element is better than a broken air box, so obviously it's better to run that than the busted stock box. I would at some point try to get a 6637 filter kit from Riff Raff though once you get the truck starting and running like it should. I just don't trust an air filter that I can see pinholes of daylight through. LOL
On another note, the truck looks like it's in pretty nice shape. Looks like he got a good deal on it and it should make him a great truck. Get some nice factory Alcoa wheels on it to finish it off.
1: for the cold hard start, try plugging in the block heater overnight and see how it starts. Based off the info you gave, it sounds like an issue with the glow plugs or glow plug relay. If you turn the key to the on position, you should hear a loud click under the hood and the battery voltage should drop down, let it sit that way for about two minutes and you should hear the click again and voltage will come back up. If it does that, the glow plug relay should be working properly. If the GPR is working and the truck starts fine with the block heater, I would pull the valve covers, replace the glow plugs and check the UVCHs (under valve cover harnesses) while your in there. They have a tendancy to melt the connector at the glow plug pins when the glow plugs are dead and drawing too much load and heating up the pins. If any connectors appear melted, change them while your under there.
2: The stumbling while driving sounds like the CPS (cam position sensor). I usually have a spare one laying around to try when stuff like this comes up, but next time you start or crank the engine, watch the tach. The tach should register RPMs while cranking. If it does not, that points to a CPS problem.
3: The valve cover gaskets rarely leak on these engines unless there is a loose or missing valve cover bolt. I wouldn't replace them unless they are damaged. If you do replace them, use Ford gaskets rather than parts store gaskets. IIRC I just paid $100 for one valve cover gasket from Ford, so unless they are damaged, run 'em.
4: The K&N open element is better than a broken air box, so obviously it's better to run that than the busted stock box. I would at some point try to get a 6637 filter kit from Riff Raff though once you get the truck starting and running like it should. I just don't trust an air filter that I can see pinholes of daylight through. LOL
On another note, the truck looks like it's in pretty nice shape. Looks like he got a good deal on it and it should make him a great truck. Get some nice factory Alcoa wheels on it to finish it off.
2:Replaced the CPS yesterday
3:Found the leak. Its coming from the oil dip stick tube.
4:6637 Filter kit from riff raff should be here on friday
5:Already have about $600 in the truck and cant afford much more
