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Cranks but will not start 2001 F-350 7.3 psd

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  #16  
Old 04-01-2014, 07:53 PM
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I replaced the glow plug relay and still have the same issue. I am going to replace the glow plugs later this month when I replace the exhaust manifolds. Until then I guess I will leave with the issue for a little longer. I was thinking that the glow plugs on this truck of mine were not to bad as this truck will start easier than my other truck. This truck will start in the freezing temperatures without having the block heater on where my other one must be plugged in.
 
  #17  
Old 04-03-2014, 03:34 PM
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Ohm them from the VC plug first...no point in popping the VCs if it's not the GPs.
 
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Old 04-02-2015, 10:45 PM
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Starting problem

My truck would crank fairly well, but would not start. I load tested both batteries and found one was bad. Replaced the bad battery snd it started faster than I can ever remember.
 
  #19  
Old 05-15-2015, 12:25 PM
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When I plugin to heat the block it starts but won't if I don't. White smoke comes out the exhaust and from the exhaust behind the turbo. I smell diesel fuel. When I crank the engine the volts on the batteries go from 12.5 to 10.

I replaced the GPR and all 8 glow plugs. Still I'm having the same issue, no start. It cranks over but won't fire over.

Help please..,
I'm killing myself over this.
 
  #20  
Old 05-17-2015, 09:47 AM
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heebeha: So you are saying it starts if it's been plugged in and runs fine after that? But it just won't start if you do not plug it in? What is the outside temperature where you're at?

Have you checked your engine oil level? if it is very low, it won't start or run properly. But heating up the oil will make it thinner, and it may be enough to allow you to crank and drive off. You might be surprised how many people have been stumped over a simple problem like the oil being super low (I'm guilty myself).

Go to the "Hard / No Start Thread" that is a sticky at the top of this forum. There's a ton of links to possible causes.
 
  #21  
Old 05-17-2015, 10:06 AM
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Change your oil and check the level in the HPOP, should be 1/2 inch from the top, yes if you run your oil low the HPOP wont build enough pressure to open the injectors. How long has it been since you serviced her? Do you park on a hill? letting what little oil you have to miss the pickup tube, That is exactly what it sounds like to me. If it's above 50 out I dont even wait for the glow plug light to go out, I jump in and turn the key, and she starts all the time. A simple test is take out the ICP sensor and crank the engine for a second, you should have an oil mess, if not the HPOP is not working. Back to the oil level and condition. Does the tach move when you crank it, a bad CPS would cause a no start as well, the coil windings in the sensor could be bad and when you plug in the block heater it warms the Cam sensor and it works, usually there just the opposite, when they get hot they go open but you never know, watch the tach while you crank her over if it moves your ok with the cam sensor
 
  #22  
Old 05-18-2015, 10:07 PM
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The tack works when attempting to start. Just changed oil a couple weeks ago. Oil level is a little over the max, would that cause a no start? Too much oil?

I have over 260k on the truck. I read that it could be poppet valve wear on my injectors so I bought a kit on eBay that will shim my armatures on my injectors.
Has anyone had any luck with this fix?

I had oil in my ICP sensor plug so I bought a new one and a new pigtail. Waiting on it to be delivered.
 
  #23  
Old 05-18-2015, 10:16 PM
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I don't park on a hill. Haven't checked the can sesor yet. How can I text it?

I'm new to Diesel engines. How do I perform a Buzz Test. I've read a lot where they say it's the best way to test your injectors but I can't find instructions on how to perform this test
 
  #24  
Old 05-18-2015, 10:51 PM
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"How do I perform a Buzz Test."
You need a good diagnostic scan tool like AE, Snap-on or the like to do it properly. I did see a U-tube once from a guy that made his own Break-out box to do this test. Next segment was him talking about needing new injectors.
 
  #25  
Old 05-19-2015, 08:56 AM
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I repaired the wire in the column attached to the overdrive/shifter the other day because I lost all gauges and throttle. It blew the fuse is how I figured it out. Today when I made a right turn at a light it happened again and then came back on after a few seconds. Driving today the truck was surging, very poor power, like its missing.
 
  #26  
Old 07-04-2015, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by howellt39
Any smoke coming out of the tailpipe when you're cranking? White or otherwise.
I am having a simliar problem with mine not cranking. On the few times I have it got it to start it only starts crunk for maybe 10-15 seconds and acts like it is out of gas. It does have smoke coming out from the tail pipe and from under the hood. Any ideas?!
 
  #27  
Old 01-16-2016, 01:34 AM
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starts but wont stay running

I have a 02 f250 7.3l, I took one battery out and left it running, well it started rung ruff and before I could shut it off it died. it will start for like 5 seconds idel ruff and shut off, I need help figuring it out plz help..
 
  #28  
Old 01-16-2016, 09:34 AM
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You shouldn't revive an old post to talk about a new and slightly different problem on a different truck. Start a new thread. That said, I don't think you are supposed to run these trucks with only one battery hooked up. It could be a million issues though. Check to make sure you have enough oil, sometimes gets the best of us. Could be low fuel pressure caused by numerous things. Could be a sticky IPR valve. Could be a clogged EBP or ICP sensor. Or ten other issues...

Welcome to FTE. Since you are new, post in your new thread your city and state, and someone from here may be able to drop by and help you out in person. Happens all the time.
 
  #29  
Old 12-22-2016, 03:38 AM
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2001 f350 7.3, have same symptoms as AGR682, buzzing with no start. Hot, cold, infrequent follows no pattern. I will run for two- three hours and restart is same. I carry battery charger everywhere I go. Increased voltage from 8 amp charger consistently fires it off, no waiting. Any answer for AGR682 ? And myself. Repeated cranking typically is successful even with battery rundown from multiple tries, this is argument against low battery voltage. Can always tell when buzzing disappears that it will crank 100% of time, however batteries can't last in winter due to temp and ghost in the machine.
 
  #30  
Old 12-22-2016, 03:45 AM
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2001 F350 7.3 Electrical Issue

Originally Posted by agr682
Hey guys, I have an issue with my 2001 f350 PSD. Intermmittently it will not start. It will crank really quick, but will not even try to start. I think it is not getting fuel. There are no CEL codes and I have a WTS light and the tach is moving while cranking. I hear a clicking/buzzing soun coming from under te center opf the dash. When I hear that sound it will not start. checked fuses and relays and it started before. not sure if removig the fue made whatever reset. this has happened a couple times. Now it will not reset. When I remove the number #24 fuse under the hood, the clicking stops. when i crank it, but still doesnt start. Anybody sen a similar issue. Whe it starts in runs perfect. Drained the batteries trying to trouble shoot, but have them charger now. All help is appreciated. It only has 130K

SIMILAR ISSUE
2001 f350 7.3, have same symptoms as AGR682, buzzing with no start. Hot, cold, infrequent follows no pattern. I will run for two- three hours and restart is same. I carry battery charger everywhere I go. Increased voltage from 8 amp charger consistently fires it off, no waiting. Any answer for AGR682 ? And myself. Repeated cranking typically is successful even with battery rundown from multiple tries, this is argument against low battery voltage. Can always tell that when buzzing disappears that it will crank 100% of time, however batteries can't last in winter due to temp and ghost in the machine. Love the diesel but can't leave yard without extension cord. Also have 85' f250 6.9 lt love it
 


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