need help here in california
#46
Hey Smueller,
Like I said above my Vin# isn't the standard format either so don't get discouraged. My # is KS107200.
I'd go the bonded title route. They also require a Vin verification - they need to see some # on your truck that they can put on the title. I'd get the cowl # & put it on a tag in the glovebox - makes it easier for them to find & read it.
Good luck over there. Everyone on here is trying to be helpful don't get discouraged - take a shot at getting your title with the numbers you can see on your truck. It's 60 years old & it would be great if you could save it from the crusher.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
Like I said above my Vin# isn't the standard format either so don't get discouraged. My # is KS107200.
I'd go the bonded title route. They also require a Vin verification - they need to see some # on your truck that they can put on the title. I'd get the cowl # & put it on a tag in the glovebox - makes it easier for them to find & read it.
Good luck over there. Everyone on here is trying to be helpful don't get discouraged - take a shot at getting your title with the numbers you can see on your truck. It's 60 years old & it would be great if you could save it from the crusher.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
#52
First off having, having done dozens of VIN verifications it can be done but at minimum you need to have a bill of sale from who you got it from. You need to start establishing a paper trail. Next you say that it has been ground on the frame near where the numbers would be, has it had a different frame section grafted on for the olds engine or was it mounted to the stock frame? You never said if the frame was stock.
As far as what Ben is saying, Texas is A Lot different than this messed up state. Ben you factory VIN would not start with a '9' as your truck is a '50 and your number, I am willing to bet is a State of Kansas assigned number. CA assigned numbers, issued by the CHP, follow the exact same format, CA ******.
I agree that if you don't get any paperwork from either the body shop or the previous owner then it don't matter how good a deal it is because you will not get it on the road legally in this state.
You can use "Statement of Facts" forms for a lot of what you need. Start with them and get a bill of sale from the body shop and a statement of facts from the previous owner(it looked like you said you at least talked to him, hard to tell the way you wrote it) saying he did not have a title or lost it, which ever may be the case. Then go from there. You will need a weight ticket and VIN verification.
As far as what Ben is saying, Texas is A Lot different than this messed up state. Ben you factory VIN would not start with a '9' as your truck is a '50 and your number, I am willing to bet is a State of Kansas assigned number. CA assigned numbers, issued by the CHP, follow the exact same format, CA ******.
I agree that if you don't get any paperwork from either the body shop or the previous owner then it don't matter how good a deal it is because you will not get it on the road legally in this state.
You can use "Statement of Facts" forms for a lot of what you need. Start with them and get a bill of sale from the body shop and a statement of facts from the previous owner(it looked like you said you at least talked to him, hard to tell the way you wrote it) saying he did not have a title or lost it, which ever may be the case. Then go from there. You will need a weight ticket and VIN verification.
#53
#54
For what it's worth I bought a motor cycle from Pennsylvania that had no title or vin numbers. The vin numbers had been ground off when custom work had been done. I had to take it to the CHP and leave it for a few days. They were able to raise the numbers from where they had been ground off. When they stamp the numbers it actually changes the molecular structure in the steel where the stamping was and they still can read it. I would go talk to them and explain the problem.
#55
You might post a couple of pics of the front frame section in the engine bay, above the axle to the front crossmember. Someone may be able to tell you if it looks like an original frame.
I know it has been said many times, but I will repeat. Look really closely at the frame rails in the engine bay. I couldn't see my frame vin until I pulled the sheetmetal and wirebrushed the frame. They were faint, but readable, on the passenger side (mine is a 50 F1).
From the front of the frame, it is between 27-30" back, or 8-11" back from the front crossmember rear rivet.
If all else fails, it would probably be easiest to find a junk titled truck w/ title and swap frames. That would let you use the good parts from your truck and have a registerable vehicle.
I know it has been said many times, but I will repeat. Look really closely at the frame rails in the engine bay. I couldn't see my frame vin until I pulled the sheetmetal and wirebrushed the frame. They were faint, but readable, on the passenger side (mine is a 50 F1).
From the front of the frame, it is between 27-30" back, or 8-11" back from the front crossmember rear rivet.
If all else fails, it would probably be easiest to find a junk titled truck w/ title and swap frames. That would let you use the good parts from your truck and have a registerable vehicle.
#57
#58
Well i really dont give up on stuff but im just having a hard time with it some say the vin is on the driver side from rail and others say passenger frame rail so i talked to the guy that TOOK THE VINS OFF and he said took them off same time ago and lost them but he says there is a vin under the cab and he did start the process of getting it legel so ill be taking the cab off and i will see
#59
#60