Removing wheel bearing question
#1
#3
#4
Hammer and a punch is all that is required. After you clean all the grease out of the hub, you will see two "dips" in the hub where you can put your punch in behind the races and drive them out. The bearings themselves will just fall out, the rear one once you take the seal out. You will probably need new seals, they are hard to get out without ruining them.
#5
You will need a special socket to remove the wheel bearing lock nuts. I think you can borrow them from the parts store. And, you will need a way to get the retainer rings out - I did it today and used a small screwdriver and a hook. Also, you will need a pair of snap-ring pliers.
When you put the bearings in you are to torque the first nut to 50 ft-lbs while rotating the wheel. Then back off the nut ~45 degrees and install the retainer in the nearest hole. Then torque the 2nd lock nut to 50 ft-lbs.
When you put the bearings in you are to torque the first nut to 50 ft-lbs while rotating the wheel. Then back off the nut ~45 degrees and install the retainer in the nearest hole. Then torque the 2nd lock nut to 50 ft-lbs.
#6
hammer and punch is all thats required, though a bearing race installer tool as countrybumpkin described, or a set of 3/4 drive sockets that get large enough to do the job, is quite helpful.
as for getting the front hubs apart, most entry-level toolkits include a set of allen wrenches, the smallest of which serves as a suitable hook to pull out that external snap ring mounted into the OD of the hub, at least after you use a small screwdriver to pop it up a little. a nice little hook is even better, but the L-shaped allen wrench is good enough.
as for getting the front hubs apart, most entry-level toolkits include a set of allen wrenches, the smallest of which serves as a suitable hook to pull out that external snap ring mounted into the OD of the hub, at least after you use a small screwdriver to pop it up a little. a nice little hook is even better, but the L-shaped allen wrench is good enough.
#7
hammer and punch is all thats required, though a bearing race installer tool as countrybumpkin described, or a set of 3/4 drive sockets that get large enough to do the job, is quite helpful.
as for getting the front hubs apart, most entry-level toolkits include a set of allen wrenches, the smallest of which serves as a suitable hook to pull out that external snap ring mounted into the OD of the hub, at least after you use a small screwdriver to pop it up a little. a nice little hook is even better, but the L-shaped allen wrench is good enough.
as for getting the front hubs apart, most entry-level toolkits include a set of allen wrenches, the smallest of which serves as a suitable hook to pull out that external snap ring mounted into the OD of the hub, at least after you use a small screwdriver to pop it up a little. a nice little hook is even better, but the L-shaped allen wrench is good enough.
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#10
Yes you will need to hammer them in if you are not using a press. I just did my 95 F-150 and it is easy. I put a little grease around the race and place it as level as possible in the hub. I placed a short scrap piece of 2x4 across the race and tapped it a few times with hammer to get it started. Then using a flat punch at the 12 oclock position tapped it twice. Then twice at the 6 oclock, then twice at the 3 and twice more at the 4. Gently walking in down into the hub.. Don't get greedy or hit one side more than the other. You will know when it is set. Using a good bright light helps alot..... Piece of cake!!!!!
#11
Thanks everyone for the helping with my stupid questions...hahaha. I've replaced bearings before but never on this truck and I didn't know if I would run into any surprises and i wanted to be prepared before I tackled this. Thanks again.
#12
It's making a roaring sound. I jacked up both rear tires off the ground, then jacked up one front tire, engaged the 4x4 and put it in gear and gave it a little tap on the gas pedal. The front wheel I though was bad to begin with, was roaring really bad.
Thanks everyone for the helping with my stupid questions...hahaha. I've replaced bearings before but never on this truck and I didn't know if I would run into any surprises and i wanted to be prepared before I tackled this. Thanks again.
Thanks everyone for the helping with my stupid questions...hahaha. I've replaced bearings before but never on this truck and I didn't know if I would run into any surprises and i wanted to be prepared before I tackled this. Thanks again.
#13
That's never a good sign. At least you were able to pin-point the problem. The only thing that I would add to the discussion, since everybody else has told you what you need to do the job, is that you should consider taking the other side apart and at least clean, inspect, and repack the bearings to make sure they are in good shape. Of course you would put new seals in at the same time. After you have done both sides, you'll have peace of mind knowing your bearings and other related components are good to go for quite some time (unless you do a lot of playing in mud/water and they will need servicing more often).
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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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09-03-2017 07:34 AM